firebanshee

Redline has my bike right now and he had it on the dyno and ran it up and then stuck a set of shear pipes on it and he said that the shear made 2 to 3 more peak horse power but the wicked pipe had a broader power range.I asked him if i should switch pipes and he said to keep the ones i have cause it wouldnt be worth it to change.I am a bigger guy so i am after more torque than peak horse power.I am going to 39 carbs and having my cub decked and he might port it alittle then i will have some dyno #s when he is done.I had it dynoed after i posted this nobody seems to know alot about these pipes i really like the looks of them and you dont see alot of them.

T5's all they way,i have a bike with them they work great.I ran them before and after the port job they work great both ways and had some buddies get T6's when they came out and they went back to T'5s.

Did you get the slides back in the right carbs?And is your choke tube connected between the two carbs?

I have double nutted the top of the stud and use heat from my hand held propane torch at the bottom of the stud so you dont snap one off in the cylinder.

I have a box of broken pistons from a short rod crank

You can eliminate the tors electronically by unplugging the brain box to it,the box is a little square box under the left side of the fuel tank with 3 wires going to it up by the coils .Just unplug it and it will dissable the system and you can get a removal kit later.You can also switch your spark plug wires and see if the miss follows the plug wire, you cannot cross the plug wires on a stock banshee ignition system because they both fire at the same time every time.

Banshee trouble shooting facts Here is a useful link that might help.

If you are starving for fuel a float could be a problem ,but have you verified that you are starving for fuel.Right after the bike dies you could shut the fuel off at the fuel shut off so none drains in after the bike dies and then crack the drain screw on the float bowls and see if any fuel runs out that would tell you if it is a fuel delivery problem.

Honestly i would remove them,you can just unhook them and leave the carb tops on until you buy a tor removal kit which is what i would do,the kit comes with the tops and idle screws and directions on how to put it on it is easy to install and gives you so much more room for when you work on the bike.You need to do a search on this sight and it will tell you how to unhook it step by step.I am not saying this is what is wrong with your bike right now but these systems fail ALOT.You could just need new plugs or have a plugged jet in your carbs or bad plug boot or even a reed valve not sealing,but the tors is a good staring point if you have allready checked the obvious things. The only thing you set on the tors is the idle with that big slotted screw on top.

Your stock one will fit along with your sprocket hub.

The tors system is those big awkward things sitting on top your carbs.If those are gone and you just have caps on your carbs and idle screws on the sides of your carbs someone has allready taken them off.

Do you still have the tors system on your bike? maybe the slide is hanging up a little and the tors is shutting your bike down or the tors system is malfunctioning,something to check.

If you keep trying to run it with a blown head gasket you will score your cylinder wall and you will need more than a head gasket.

I had the same exact thing happen to my sons bike,he broke some clutch disks and it took out the crank seal from debri,you do have to split the case to change crank seals.

Could need to clean the carbs or put on new spark plug boots,the boots have a 5 ohm resistor in them that bad,NGK sells replacement ends for 6$ a piece.You can check them with an OHM meter.

Maybe the bolt broke off that goes through the spring on the shift shaft.If the shift lever doesn't have any spring action up or down this could be the problem,i have broken a few of them myself.

:biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: I am getting a JJ&A drag axel for x mas, ive been a good boy. :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:

What is your elevation? What octane of fuel have you been running 17cc domes require race gas if you are around sea level.

Were you guys racing at ?

I use to have alot of fun playing with the porting on my OWN stock cylinders and seeing what would happen if i raised this or lowered that.I use to even have people ask me who ported my bike and i would tell them that i did and i do it for my own entertainment.My bike was pretty fast with my home port jobs and i use to out run alot of bikes, but by no means was i the fastest bike out there.These bikes that said redline and twister on them kept beating me.I don't regret playing with my own cylinders i had alot of fun but my bike is up a redline right now getting motor work and tuning done to it.You guys are right when you say that if you want to throw your name in the hat of being know as a bad ass motor builder you need to build your own bike and show people what you got.I guarantee that if you were racing overhear on the oregon coast and started beating redline bikes with your port work and motor work you would get peoples attention.I don't think alot of people realize that there is more to just slapping a port job in your bike,it is the complete package all they way down to the gearing and tires.I am a bigger sized rider so redline is building my bike accordingly, i don't think a person just learning how to do port work and do motor work would have the technology to be able to do this.I guess the point i am trying to make is i don't think it is right to go out and experiment on other peoples stuff and charge them for it and tell them they are getting a full fledged port job.I experimented on MY stuff only,but by no means did i try to sell my hobbie.Leave it to the pros if you want to beat the pros. I think this is a good topic because i have seen some guys around here get really screwed over by there good deal on a port job.

You was wondering in your thread called CRAP if you should run race gas,i think at 19cc domes and +4 or +5 timing if you didn't switch to race gas or at least mix 93 octane and race fuel 50/50 that could be a big part of your problem.You could have burned a hole in your piston from detonation.At sea level i think you need to drop to 21cc domes for 93 octane , just my thoughts.

The heat created when compressing the air fuel mixture causes a low quality fuel to ignite in a higher compression engine.The air fuel mixeture ignites before it is suppose to while the piston is still in it's upstoke causing it to make a pinging sound.The pinging sound is the piston and rod assembly rattling from the force of the fuel igniting before it is suppose to needles to say this damages your engine quickly.This is how a diesel engine is designed to run and that is why they are typically noisey. If you are at sea level then you need to mix your fuel at least 50/50 93 and race gas running 20cc.Advancing your timing does make your motor detonate easier,but if you go 4 deg at 50/50 and 20 deg you should be alright,this is at sea level the higher up you go in altitude the smaller dome you run without using race fuel.

I have had the same problem bleeding my rear brake and i found that if used the bolt that connects the line to the caliper to bleed it instead of the bleeder it get all the air out, because it is the highest piont on the rear caliper and that is were the air is trapped at.It works for me.

I like to spray my bikes down with pledge furniture polish before i go out riding, it keeps the shine and keeps the plastics looking new,it works really well.Pledge brand seems to work the best.A friend of mine at a body shop told me about this and it works great, he said that they even do it to there show cars.This also seems to work better that armorall,but dont do your seat :biggrin: