BenBB

I agree 100% with Justintoxicated, ugrading the air filter should be a priority. Since you're getting pipes do it at the same time and you'll only need to rejet once (and yes you'll HAVE to rejet for pipes). Depending on where you ride, there's several ways to go on the air filter: 1. For mostly sand riding or not alot of dust, I like a K&N with Outerwear (on a Pro Design or UMI Racing adapter plate, to get the most airflow with pipes run no lid) 2. Dual carb-mounted K&N's with Outerwears are also good for sand or no dust, you may lose a little bottom end power and have to clean 2 filters, but you can remove the airbox completely 3. For dusty or wet/muddy conditions, go with a good 2-stage foam filter on a Pro Design adapter plate, leave the lid off for best airflow or leave it on (without the snorkel) for deep water or mud 4. For dusty conditions but not alot of mud/water, Toomey's 2 into 1 filter works for dust protection and airflow I wouldn't get the "kits", because chances are the jets won't be perfect and you'll wind up buying others, the boost bottle is worthless, and you can just get reeds separately. But after you get pipes and upgrade the air filter, it's up to you what you need; reeds for throttle response, aftermarket/shaved head for lowend power, advance the timing for a little more power across the band, etc. but you may also want to consider upgrading elsewhere like tires, gearing, suspension, even decals, just depends on what you wanna do...

For T5's or TR6's and dual K&N's, riding around sea level, and assuming 60-80 degrees F and 32:1 premix ratio, I'd start with 320 mains, 30 pilots, airscrews 1.5 turns out, and needles in the stock (middle) clip position. Should be a safe starting point and you can dial it in from there, you may need a size or two larger or smaller on the mains but that should be close. It's always better to err on the side of rich, especially in dunes where you've got a good load on the motor and tend to have the revs pretty high. Sheeweet I think you said you checked out the Jetting FAQ in your other thread, but gfdfireman if you haven't already you might scope it out, the link is in my sig, it might help. Good luck.

OK the choke doing nothing could be a couple things: 1. If the bowls are reversed the choke won't work (there's a small jet in an enclosed passage on the left carb bowl, not in the right bowl) 2. The choke tube might not be in place between carbs (and it may not run very good without it either) If your pilots were way too rich, the choke MIGHT not kill the motor when you pop it out at an idle, but in that case it probably wouldn't idle at all (and it sounds like you have stock pilots, needing smaller than stock pilots almost never happens). If the pilots were way lean, it should idle better with the choke off, that doesn't sound like the case either. So I'd check the tube and the bowls first and see if you can get the choke working. Sounds like you're on the right track with the mains, but since you say it has no low end power you might try going a size larger on the pilots (27.5) and play with the airscrews to see if you can get a good off-idle response. I'd leave the needles where they are and try the larger pilots and the mains you have now and see how it runs; you may need to go smaller on the mains but be careful you don't go too lean. Good luck.

This work?

I agree with Fox73-Zz, with your mods your mains should be 320-340 range, assuming 60-80F temps and 32:1 premix ratio. You could probably use 30 pilots as well, they are Banshee-specific and not the same as standard Mikuni pilots, the Yamaha part number is 260-14142-30. Anyway, 200's are stock mains, and are probably WAY too lean for your mods. I'd try 30 pilots, airscrews 1.5 turns out, needles one clip position leaner than stock for the ported reed cages (2nd clip position from the blunt end), and 350 mains (again assuming 60-80F, 32:1, and no airbox lid). Should be a safely rich starting point, got a bunch of stuff including an easier way (hopefully) to pull the carbs in the Jetting FAQ below (link in my sig). Good luck.

Have you tried adjusting the needle clip position? Sounds like it may just be a jetting issue. Once you get the jetting dialed in the drag pipes may be fine for play riding (not sure what you got in Kuwait but I envision dunes, top end pipes would be good for that). Good luck.

For stock pipes, right? With a K&N and reeds, I'd use the stock needles, with the clips one position leaner than stock (2nd clip from the blunt end), stock pilots should be fine. If the airbox lid is off, start with 240 mains, if the lid is on try 230's. If it's real cold you might start a size or two larger on the mains (you said snow so it's probably cold, try starting with 260 with no lid or 250 with lid and work your way down if it bogs at WOT), but that should be a safe place to start. Good luck.

OK, if the parking brake is gone (including the guts with the funky acme threads), what you need to do is: 1. Remove the cap on the brake master cylinder 2. Take an old brake pad and set it in place in the caliper, against the round cylinder on the inside of the caliper (leave the two long hex-head bolts with long pin ends out for now) 3. Use a small c-clamp to slowly compress the caliper, against the old brake pad (keep an eye on the master cylinder in case it overflows) 4. Install the new pads & hex bolts, it should slide right over the caliper (some disc brake lubricant on the pins is a good idea) 5. Only bleed the brakes if for some reason you disconnected the lines, or the master cylinder was empty during previous bleeding, or the brakes feel real spongy Hope that helps, good luck.

The Dragons look pretty good. I'm running Pro Grip Millenium goggles now and love them, way way better than the cheap-o Smith goggles I had before. Next set I buy will be Oakley, mostly because I can find tearoffs locally (and not have to order them), but also because they appear to be as good quality-wise as the Pro Grips...and they have large frames fer glasses.

And sneeky comes from behind (literally ) with the win!!!!! NICE!

I got 'em too, evil has an excellent point; OTG goggles beat the hell out of pressing yer glasses into your face. It's nice to be able to see... I woulda gone for the surgery but now I can't...I got a corneal callous or some shit on my right eyeball, doesn't affect vision or anything but they won't go to hackin' up my corneas. No shit mcaf29? I wanted to fly rotary wings BAD, got an appointment to West Point and the dickheads said I couldn't fly with ANY kinda corrected vision (of course that was 10+ years ago before corrective surgery was commonplace). Enough ranting, they're worth it dogboystoy, I remember when I got my first pair...I was like "damn, I can actually see individual leaves on trees and not a huge green mass, cool".

I haven't tried them, but I'm using MSR DCX grips now and love them. They have a dual compound so the palm area is soft but the front gives good grip; they may cost a little more but they have way outlasted the last set of cheap Scott grips I bought.

My $.02 1.It's not Yamaha that wants to discontinue production of 2-strokes, you can thank the EPA and the liberal freaks that lobby in their favor; bunny huggin' granola-eatin motherfuckers. 2.Props to Yamaha for being the first of the big four to see it coming and build the baddest thumpers around; the YZ400F and eventually YZ426F and now in a quad frame the YFZ450...at least we have an alternative when the axe finally falls on factory 2-strokes. 3.Who else but Yamaha is gonna be crazy enough to cram a screaming street bike motor in a quad frame, like they did with the Banshee (with roots in the RD and RZ street rockets)...I'm thinkin' there's one of those crazy fuckers trying to stuff an R6 in a quad frame as we speak...

#1 on my list would be upgrading the air filter, the stock setup is a piece of shit. I run an UMI Racing adapter plate in the airbox, with a K&N, Outerwear, and no lid. You might consider dual carb-mounted K&N's but I chose not to because I've seen them fall off, some people have trouble with the Outerwears burning against the pipes, and some say you lose some bottom end power from the short intake tract. The Toomey 2 into 1 is also a good choice, especially if you like foam filters better than K&N's or ride in alot of dust. After that (or at the same time), get pipes and make sure you rejet. Then just go through the list above and get what you can afford...

If all else fails you MIGHT try loosening the motor mounts and see if you can shift the motor over a little bit...seems like Toomey mentions that on their webpage somewhere, something about Banshee motors not being perfectly aligned from the factory...

I would start higher on the mains (like start with 320 or 330 mains and work your way down), and try 30 pilots. You might also need to try going a clip position leaner on the needles for the Delta's. Good luck.

Just from the jet sizes you listed, I think you should try going richer on both the pilots and the mains, but every Banshee is a little different so you might possibly be rich on one of the circuits... An easy way to see if you're rich or lean is to use the choke; when the bike is fully warmed up, ride it and pop the choke out to the first notch. If the bog gets worse in a certain throttle range, you know it's rich...if it gets better you know it's lean. Now, the mains are responsible for mixture from about 3/4 throttle to WOT. The pilots control mixture from idle to about 1/8 throttle, fine tuned by the airscrews. The needle clip position fine tunes the mixture from about 1/4 to 3/4 throttle. What I usually do is dial in the mains first, then the pilots/airscrews, then adjust the needle clip position if necessary. For your mods, I would start with 30 pilots, airscrews 1.5 turns out, needles in the stock middle (3rd) clip position, and 320 mains. Should be a safely rich place to start, if it bogs at WOT drop a size on the mains until it revs out clean, and adjust the airscrews in (richer) or out (leaner) for a clean idle and off-idle response. Got some more stuff about jetting in the FAQ in my sig if you want to check it out, it's hard to tell from your description but I would try going richer and see if it gets better or worse, and go from there. Good luck.

Blacksmith, I don't have one for sale, but is the tire completely toast? You know Skat-Trak will replace broken/ripped off paddles for like $7 per blade...

I agree with tx & boonman...the combination of 20cc domes, advanced timing, low elevation, and power pistons (don't they have a taller crown?) was too much for 94 octane. If you were jetted for 80 degrees you REALLY need to jet the mains higher for 10 degrees too... Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't holes in the middle of the piston usually detonation, and melting on the exhaust side usually lean jetting?

Anytime Lanky... ...or in a couple months when I shove the RZ motor in there, heh. j/k, hope it's fast but I know I'm not the fastest here, by any means

Wear something warm. I dunno,never been to an ice race, just seen some pics/video here and there (like Huevos 4 I think). Looks like TT stuff would help; swaybar, lower front & rear, either pegs moved back 2" (Blaster pegs) or shorter swingarm, maybe shorter gearing if the track's real tight...and some motor. But for sure the studs.

As for jetting, should be pretty much everything you want to know in the Jetting FAQ in my sig. Your tires will be fine for now, you'll know when it's time to upgrade...once you get her piped and ported you may want to consider 21x8x10 Haulers, for sand drags I hear they are the shizzle since they will bite hard and then expand when you get 'em moving. There's a million mods you can do on a Banshee, like I said look around at the fast machines at the dunes and ask alot of questions. See whose motors go fast and stay together, probably the hardest thing about building one (besides the $$$) is deciding who you want to do the porting; Patriot Racing, Grand River Racing, MP Racing, Ohton Racing, K&T, A&S, and many others build some fast stuff, call around and see who you like. Anyway, the basics are: True & weld the crank-if you're going to get wild porting and high compression, you'll need to bulletproof the bottom end...you may consider a stroker too. Port the cylinders. Increase compression-either have the head shaved & the squish cut, or invest in an aftermarket head (the domes may also need to be cut to match the porting). Advance the timing-degree key, adjustable stator plate, or with a trick aftermarket ignition system. Upgrade the reeds/cages-Delta V-Force reeds/cages are a good choice, porting the stock cages and using TDR reeds is a cheaper alternative. Upgrade the air filter setup-I like a single K&N with an Outerwear for sand, you can also consider dual K&N's or Toomey's 2 into 1 setup. Upgrade the pipes-there are several good inframe drag pipes to be had; CPI, Rocket, Stealth, T5's, etc., a topend pipe works great in the dunes as well as the drags. Upgrade the carbs-depending on who did the porting's recommendations and if you decide to go to alcohol. Chances are you'll need some little things along the way...maybe a better clutch, get rid of the TORS if you keep stock carbs, backcut the gears, mod the shift star, lighten the flywheel, etc. but the builder should have a good idea of what you'll need given what you want to do with it. Suspension mods won't be vitally important but it never hurts (especially for all-around duning) to have better front shocks, handlebars, front Mohawk or Razorback tires, and possibly a longer swingarm (don't go too long or it won't be much fun in anything but a straight line). But there's alot of guys here that know their shit, spend some time reading through old posts and don't be afraid to ask questions, there's always someone willing to help out. Good luck.

It was great, and we had a real good turnout; 12 riders in Beginner, 5 or 6 in Novice and 4 in Amateur. The two Chaves brothers that I had such a hard time with last season, I finally beat this time, got a clean win in both motos. The track was nice too, they had it freshly graded and perfect moisture; not too muddy and hardly any dust in the later races...the weather was perfect too, you shoulda been there!! I'll let you know when the January & February races are, most likely they will be like the first Sunday of the month...

I just think it's cool that the Ozz-man took a day off "work" and went RIDIN'!!!

I was fastest at the local TT track Sunday, first place in both motos in the highest class (Amateur)...that and $0.79 will get me a cup of coffee