BenBB

Damn, I missed a golden opportunity for another shameless plug of the Jetting FAQ! Doh! Thanks Fixitrod! BTW bansheeman654321, if you have any questions along the way just ask...

Which is better? #2 jet kit, but you don't need to buy a "kit", just jet your Banshee for the pipes...all the high-dollar mods in the world won't help if it still has stock jets in it. But I would recommend upgrading the stock air filter first, dial in the jetting (for details on how to jet it check out the Jetting FAQ ), then consider a head with 21cc domes as Banchetta suggested.

Could be rich or lean on the pilots and needle, and MIGHT even be a little lean on the mains... Briefly, the pilots control mixture from idle to about 1/8 throttle, and the airscrews fine tune the mixture. The needle length & taper control mixture from about 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, fine tuned by the clip position. From about 3/4 throttle to WOT mixture is controlled by the mains. So, if it bogs or hesitates right off idle, start by adjusting the airscrews in (richer) or out (leaner) and see if it helps. If going out on the pilots helps but the problem persists after you get to about 3 turns out from seated, try the next size smaller pilot (30) and start over with the airscrews 1.5 turns out. If going in helps and it still bogs or hesitates with the airscrews a half turn out from seated, try the next size larger pilot (35) and start over with the airscrews 1.5 turns out. Similarly, if it's boggy or hesitant between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle, try adjusting the needle clip position (if you already have aftermarket needles no need to worry about changing the needle itself unless you've tried everything else possible, and in that case try stock needles). Move the clip up towards the blunt end (leaner) or down towards the pointy end (richer) and see if it helps. If you're not sure which way to move it, go richer first, or try popping the choke out to the first notch and see if it helps or not (if it helps, go richer, if it gets way worse, go leaner). Anyway, one way to dial in the mains is to jet them higher until it bogs at WOT and then drop a size. It might be fine where it's at now, but it could also be lean (another way to verify the mains is by doing a plug chop). Once you get the jetting dialed in, for winter all you usually need to do is adjust the airscrews if neccessary, and jet the mains a size larger for every 20 degrees colder or so (so if it's perfect for 60-80F, go up on the mains one size for 40-60F). Hope this helps, you might want to check out the Jetting FAQ for more details. Good luck.

I agree with Banchetta on the 320 mains, should be close, but I'd also go with 30 pilots and start richer on the mains (like 330 or 340 mains) and work your way down. There's a buncha stuff in the Jetting FAQ that might help. Good luck.

I have nothing to add to this thread, except: 1. It makes me appreciate living in a small town where I haven't been burglarized a single time in the 11 years I've been here, my Banshee only has a 5/16" chain and a cheap Master padlock on it and it's "safe", and the only firearm I own is a Ruger 10-22 that has more sentimental value than anything. 2. Remember that line from "Ace Ventura, Pet Detective"...."OBSESS MUCH!!?!"

You guys kill me, that post was classic boonman, sheer genius!! And damn STLBill, I damn near fell out of my chair laughing at those Mustang comments!!! OMG that was funny! Maybe moreso since I once owned a '66 Rustang

That was sweet...love the sound of them turbos whinin'

OK, tentatively, hopefully, fairly optimistically and very probably, I'm IN Nobody better give me any shit if I hafta drive the wife's minivan, that thing gets twice the mileage as my half ton, hehe just might have to take the wheels off the Banshee and shove it in sideways So I got past the biggest hurdle, finally got some bucks to pay for fuel, got it set aside for tha trip, everything else is just details...I'll keep everyone posted as I know what's going on... B370 can't wait to meet up with you and ride, and I sure hope Stan, Blue, Banchetta, Justin, theeechozen1 and everyone else can make it too!!!!!

...uhh flip a coin?

Just tryin' to catch up, missed out on the better part of a week from the forums and wanted to say it's good to be back. Hope everyone had a good Thanksgiving, here's my short version: Ate myself absolutely sick Thursday. Spent Friday installing a CD changer in the wife's minivan, stabbed myself in the palm with a screwdriver and hurt like hell...my clutch hand no less. Fell off the doghouse trying to tarp some of the wife's junk and twisted my ankle, my fucking left ankle that I kinda need to shift gears, and I'm ashamed to say I wasn't even inebriated. Went to the dunes in Kermit, TX on Saturday and had an awesome time. Perfect weather, not too big a crowd, kinda rutted by camp but plenty of smooth sand to rip farther out. Met and rode with some great guys (well that always happens). First time I found somebody that wanted to drag was a built DS (pipe, filter, 46mm carb I think, rev box, Axis shocks, he said the head was ported pretty wild)...I beat him pretty clean by 3-4 lengths, only going up to 4th gear. Second run with that guy and a YFZ450 pulls up, has a pipe, filter, rev box, Webb cam, hi-comp piston, and the new ITP curved paddles. Beat the YFZ by 2-3 lengths, but he wouldn't back off until I was winding out 5th. Then they both quit racing, WTF? No biggie, I go ride trails and bowls and a little later some others are racing. This time there's a sweet 250R and a CRF450F dirt bike with a paddle; the 250R was about as fast as that YFZ, I was ahead of him every time but the CRF walked me on top...dammit. OK fine, you got a 200lb. weight advantage on me, I'll take 2nd without cryin' (and yes I gave it 3 hard runs before I gave in). Good day of ridin' though. Spent half of Sunday playing Soul Calibur 2 with my son and started feeling bad, which turned to worse, until Monday morning I felt like hammered dog shit. So I spent Monday and Tuesday in bed sick with the Flu. It sucked. So now I'm back at work and can read up on what I missed, heh.

It's because the pilots flow fuel from idle up, so if your mains were perfect before, they are a little rich now from the extra fuel being supplied by the pilots, you might try a size smaller on the mains and see how it runs. Good luck.

OK I'm no expert but I'm working on an RZ also. I took the wiring diagram from the factory service manual on Viking's site and cut it down to what I think is all I need: It appears that when that black/white wire is grounded, it kills the motor, just like a Banshee...not real sure what it does in the YPVS controller, unless that controller can signal the CDI to turn off for some reason. Is this what you were looking for or not? Sorry I took out the key switch, mine won't have one...

Have a good one! The turkey MRE's aren't half bad but damn the mashed potatoes taste like liquid styrofoam.

FIRST try tapping on the bowls with the end of a large screwdriver, alot of times if the floats are stuck open this will knock 'em loose. If that doesn't work, take 'em back off, remove the float and clean the rubber tip of the float needle, make sure there's no dirt in the seat, and adjust the floats to 21mm (from the carb body without gasket). Got some stuff about setting the float in the Jetting FAQ . Good luck.

Do you have a good ground? I'd start there, the black wire where the voltage regulator mounts is the frame ground, the other end of the wire is grounded to the back of the stator plate. The handlebar kill switch works by grounding the black wire with a white stripe. So if the switch is "on", the black/white wire isn't grounded, when the switch is "off" the black/white wire is grounded and kills the motor. The key switch works by opening the circuit between the black wire and the black wire with a red stripe. So if the switch is "on", the black/red wire is grounded, when the switch is "off", the black/red wire is not grounded and it kills the motor. Both of these circuits are controlled internally by the CDI, but if the ground is loose (or a wire is cut or a connector is loose) it COULD still run and not shut off with either switch...

31 here. Happy birthday Oilsmoke, keep it pinned and don't look back!!

I agree with Banchetta, but I'd start richer; 340 mains, 30 pilots, airscrews 1.5 turns out, needle in the 2nd clip from the top (assuming 32:1 premix and 60-80 degrees F). Should be a safely rich starting point, and you can dial it in from there. Good luck.

Hey thanks Banshee crazy kid, I'm pretty sure I get Speed so I'll hafta haul ass home tonite to catch it (if those times are Eastern)...

I'll hafta look on the bottle Kev, or you can see if Redline has anything online about mixing with dexcool...but I do know the stuff works, I was averaging 180F before I added it, now it stays around 160F most of the time (with 50/50 ethylene glycol & distilled water and like 3-4 oz. of Water Wetter). The only time it heats is if I'm hitting the same jump over and over and don't get alot of air flowing through the radiator.

Heh BansheeJen, you ain't lyin. Like Meat said, a pnuematic stapler is almost a necessity to install a seat cover. I did my CEET with a plain 'ol Black & Decker stapler like you'd use for hanging Christmas lights...I got the damn thing on but there must be 800 fucking staples in it...

Have a good one! Can't beat an eating holiday...mmmm turkey, stuffing, potatoes, graaaavy...

Where I ride, the ambeint air temp is usually between 50F and 90F, I always warm mine up until it hits 100F, and when the jetting is perfect it stays right at 160F while riding hard...if it ever hits 180F I shut it down and point it into the wind. BUT I run Water Wetter in the coolant, and the lowest temp I think I've ridden has been right above 30F. Also, temp gauges can vary in accuracy & calibration, so yours may be fully warmed up and show 80F, and operate showing under 130F...but if you're riding in -20F you probably would want to block off half the radiator or more...

Sweet, if it slides half as good as it drags it should be alotta fun on the track.

My fuel filter works great, I don't think the premix is an issue. Zinger, you can try re-routing a longer fuel line around the left of the boost bottle, but you don't want to make it go over or under the bottle since the carbs are gravity-fed from the tank. It's not going to be easy, there's really no room in there for both the filter and the boost bottle...if you didn't notice any gain with the bottle you might consider ditching it in favor of the fuel filter and the stock crossover tube (I would, you could always polish it up or even have it chromed). BTW sounds like you got some kinda wierd chrome fetish...the good news is there's no end of shiny stuff you can get for a Banshee, heh, so yer in the right place...

I agree! Shake it baby!!