BenBB

Bought my '96 used 3 years ago for $2700. Since then I've spent about $4400 on it (including little shit like case oil, premix, plugs, etc.) for a total of $7100. That doesn't include the RZ side project, which might just end up on this Banshee, at least the jugs, head, and electricals...so another $900 there for an even 8K.

Merry Christmas everyone! At home or abroad, here's hoping all happy holidays.

Sorry to hear that Stylemaster. Seems like you can never have too many riding buddies, and losing one ain't easy.

Short notice I know, ABM you gonna make it? Ridingorhiding any chance? I'll be there...

Check out B370's page: http://www.roostfest.com/cages.htm I used a Dremel tool with an orange stone, a rattail, and a thread file (triangle). There's some relatively recent pics of Justintoxicated's ported cages in this forum or the Images forum if you run a search...

ROFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That is SICK!! I LOVE IT!

My local dealer wanted $7.50 a pop, I told 'em where they could stick them...

The Bloodhound Gang. The Vagina Song "it's hard to ryhme a, word like vagina...", The Ballad of Chaisy Lain and of course The Bad Touch...

Damn straight Justintoxicated.

I agree with boonman, although for $100 I'd put on a temp gauge (best $5 I've spent), shave the head (mine was about $30 at a local machine shop), port the reed cages (free if you do it yourself), remove/relocate the coolant overflow bottle (free), make sure the jetting is perfect (might cost you a couple plugs), and save for some pipes... Not sure what other mods you got because there's nothing in your sig...but if you don't already have it an adapter plate for the K&N (I think Noss machine is making 'em now, mine's an UMI), and an Outerwear would be a good idea for sand.

I considered doing that (or welding on a coupler for the plug) but didn't want to run into any interference between the plug and the water pump itself. I would consider the PD cover, but hell I've only had to drain the whole system once in 3 years when I did the topend, so I figured it wasn't worth the time/money to f*ck with.

Mine was triple rate Works front shocks and Ricky Stator +2 a-arms. I would do the same mod in a heartbeat, well worth it I think.

Forgot to mention, do you have an adapter plate that the K&N mounts to? If not you hafta have the airbox lid (at least the front part like Banchetta said) on there to secure the air filter...

Do you have an Outerwear on the K&N? If so, yes ditch the lid unless you hit alot (and I mean ALOT) of mud & water. With an Outerwear sand will never touch the K&N, if it makes it's way into the airbox it will just fall right off the Outerwear (I love my Outerwear and recommend one). If you jetting is perfect now, try going up a size on the mains for airbox lid removal, maybe 2 sizes if you had the snorkel on there. If you're not sure on the jetting, and you're pretty close to sea level (not sure what the elevation is in MA), I'd start with 330 mains, 30 pilots, airscrews 1.5 turns out, and needles one clip position leaner than stock (2nd clip position from the blunt end) for no airbox lid...that's assuming 32:1 premix and 60-80 degrees F, if it's colder you might want to start a size or two larger on the mains. Good luck. BTW if you haven't already you might check out the jetting FAQ, link in my sig below...

I agree with everyone else, if you're incapacitated there's Gamecube/PS2/Xbox/PC games, watchin' DVD's like Huevos 5 & 6, and gettin' online (forums and of course porn). I've been lucky, last injury I had was a broken Tibula or Fibula, I forget which one it was but it's the small bone between the ankle and knee. I kept riding. Hell, I raced the day after with an acme bandage, didn't know it was broke until a couple weeks later it was still swollen and had it checked out...stupid walking cast wasn't nearly as good as my riding boots, heh. Last time I had a concussion I don't know what the hell I did, there's literally hours I don't remember what I was doing, people said I was walking around fairly normally. Guess it depends on what you call normal, heh. Hope your feelin' better soon...

Roswell, New Mexico (yes that's in the USA)

I agree with spoin39, if you're gonna keep the lid on the airbox. If not I'd start a little richer on the mains, like 290 or 300 and work your way down. BTW the stock needles have "5N7" stamped on them.

1.Temp gauge 2.Air filter 3.Works front shocks/Ricky Stator a-arms/LSR axle 4.Pipes (haha gotcha beat TheNewGuy; Fatty's & Power Cores $140!) 5.Skat-Trak Hauler Extremes/Mohawks for sand 6.Swaybar and lowered front & rear for TT OK it's a top 6 but they all seemed like a night & day difference...

Damn theeechozen1, that's harsh! You trying to get all your crashin' done for the year in one blaze of glory? No facilities, huh. B370 you better opt for the 1,000 gallon black water tank and bring a few box fans for that motorhome...

You've got a point Wheatchex, but I think the advantage to gamefly is being able to rent numerous titles. Not sure how many you could turn around in a month, because they don't send another one until the first one gets back to them, but the potential is there to play alot more games for $22/month than if you were renting them locally for $5 a pop. And another thing they offer is the ability to buy the games you want relatively cheaply, not sure but it was like $2 or $9, when you tell 'em you want to buy it they send the case & manual, and you can then "rent" another title. I think if you're in a large metro where the shipping would be quick, it would be well worth considering.

Probably won't affect the mains...if anything I'd guess you might need a size smaller (aftermarket reeds sometimes make it run richer). But I'd try it with the mains you have now. BTW you might need to move the needle a clip position leaner (usually) or richer (in some cases), depending on how it runs from about 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, and you might need a richer pilot, depending on how it responds right off idle (if going out on the airscrews helps but it still hesitates). Good luck.

Yes use the same circuit (black to black/white) for both your tether and pushbutton kill switch-they both work by completing the circuit and killing the motor; the key switch circuit is opposite because it opens the circuit to ground to tell the CDI to shut off. Anyway, yes putting them both on that circuit is fine. BTW I don't think movin' the CDI closer to the motor would make a whole lotta difference, as I understand it they really really hate water, but excessive heat and/or vibration is prolly a bad thing too...what about mounting it right above the carbs, on the little frame rail that aftermarket key switches mount? Maybe it's the rear two fuel tank bolts I'm thinkin of...

www.tdrracing.com www.crankworks.com These are the two I'm considering for my RZ crank right now...

I dunno for sure what years it covers, it came out of my Clymer. It's accurate for my '96, but you're right the later years had an extra wire coming out of the CDI (purple I think). Not sure what it does, I got a Dyna CDI for mine that had that extra wire, I just taped it off and it runs fine...hope this helps.

Dang lincster, I thought I was one of the few running that big on the mains without porting, heh. Sheeweet, assuming 32:1 premix and 60-80F, I'd start a little smaller on the mains, like 320-340, with 30 pilots, airscrews 1.5 turns out, and needles in the stock (middle) clip position. Should be a safe starting point and you can dial it in from there. Good luck.