BenBB

Is that plus freight or $100 shipped? I need one for my '96, stock output is fine.

Probably not, but you could prolly find some hi-temp tape or heat shielding that would at an auto parts store. I got in a bind once and used hydraulic hose (wire reinforced) to replace the pipe to silencer clamps, it held up fairly well and didn't completely melt, but the inside got pretty soft...and that stuff is surely rated for higher temps than heater hose.

Hey Shee Devil, where ya been?

Thanks boon, I'll let you know if I need it.

I agree with everyone else: go bigger on the mains. I couldn't find your other post so not sure what was going on with your idle, but I would guess you'd want to start with 330 mains, 30 pilots, airscrews 1.5 turns out, and needle one clip position leaner than stock (2nd slot from the top)...BUT if you think the jetting is good up to about 3/4 throttle just go up on the mains until it bogs at WOT and then drop a size (or start big and work down). Good luck.

Amen Big Blue. My biggest mistake was chasing women (well trying to) instead of a racing career...I was 15 when the '87 Banshee came out, if I woulda got one then, assuming I didn't kill myself on it, I could be running the Open Pro TT & ST, Pike's Peak circuit and Pont de Veaux right now. Regret is a bitch, but testosterone does that to ya...

f*ck snow. You guys can have all you can stand. I was at the dunes last Sunday, it was 60 degrees at 9am and a little over 70 degrees at noon. It was perfect...well perfect until my stator went out and I had to push that heavy bitch about 300 yards...

Right on Dan! Good to hear from you again, sounds like business is good. Hopefully I'll be contacting you soon about my little RZ project...

Boonman nailed everything, especially looking at the plugs after you've been kicking it over, just one more thing I thought I'd mention: have you tried it with the choke "on"? Yes, I'm speaking from dumbass experience...

Yamahammer-it's all electronic, inside the CDI. Evil-I'd think it would be worse at upper RPM's but it would still idle (depending on how much air gets in I guess). On a side note about the carb sticking thing, I noticed on my RZ carbs that have the standard Mikuni idle screws (you know, a thumbscrew with a spring instead of a locknut), that there's an o-ring on the screw. At least in my case with the TORS removed that COULD be where water is getting in, but if I remember right some people had their throttle stick without the idle screw kit installed...

How long a drive from your pad theeechozen1?

I dunno for sure, but I know the price of porting them yourself vs. the Delta's worked for me. I think Scott M & Banchetta did some testing awhile back and the Delta's did better on the dyno (anyone else remember the specifics?). If you got the bucks go for the Delta's, not many people didn't like them, if not port the stockers and get some free hp.

I'd be there in a heartbeat if I thought I had a chance...I was so pissed when I had to flake out on the LS trip (has it already been 2 years!?). What's the date set for in March? My birthday is late February, I know what I'll wish for when I blow out the candles... What town is Dumont closest to? Phoenix is a good 8-hour haul for me, how far from there?

ROFL!!! Dude that's creepy

If it 's thick white smoke, one or more of the coolhead o-rings might have dry-rotted or otherwise lost the seal, I'd start there, an o-ring kit isn't too costly.

Yeah, I used a dremel with an orange (I think it's aluminum oxide) bell-shaped bit, a rattail file and a small thread file (triangular shaped). What you want is to smooth everything out on the inside, NOT f*ck with the rubberized stuff on the outside where the reeds close against. You want to leave at least 1/16" of area for the reed to contact. If you look at the stock cages, the casting itself has some sharp edges, and the black rubberized stuff extends into the inside. You want to take off the rubber (inside only), smooth all the castings out (don't polish it, you want a somewhat rough surface, don't use finer than 80 grit anything), and remove some material where the reeds shut (again, make sure there's at least 1/16" for the reeds to close against all the way around their edge). Don't knife edge the little arms either, make 'em round. As long as you don't take off too much around the reed seats or otherwise mess up the rubberized part where they shut, you should be fine. BTW I went one clip leaner on the needles after I did mine, and will be starting on my RZ cages pretty soon, if you need some pics lemme know.

ROFL!! "You're getting a King Cobra"...damn that was funny.

My Fatty's don't have that bulge at the top, maybe Gnarly's? Good price tho, but that dent looks larger than a quarter...

Water KILLS CDI's, luckily they are well sealed but if water/condensation ever gets inside that's what kills 'em. Not sure about the coil, although they appear to be pretty well insulated, but in either case I would think water would cause a short and kill the ignition instead of making the throttle stick. I still think it's (water making the throttle stick open) something to do with the carbs, not sure exactly what the f*ck it is though...

There's some on B370's Page , that's what I went by to port mine (his pics came out alot better than the ones I took of mine afterwards).

You might pull the carbs and check the bowls for sediment/old fuel and insure that the mains and pilots aren't clogged. I'm sure you have a clean air filter and fresh premix so I won't even go there. Probably wouldn't hurt to pull off the stator cover and make sure something hasn't made a nest in there, and all the electrical connectors are tight. Make a sacrificial offering to the 2-stroke gods...perhaps set a small weedeater motor on fire, don't forget to chant "iiintake...eeeexhaust", and wear a piston-ring necklace. They like that. Oh yeah, tell her "please please please start", don't let her catch you sayin' "goddammit if it doesn't start this time I'm gonna shove it off a bridge"...

Is it a single K&N? Airbox lid on or off? No snorkel on the lid if it's on, right? If it is a single K&N in the airbox with no lid, I'd start with 340 mains, 30 pilots, airscrews 1.5 turns out, and needles in the stock clip position. Should be a safely rich starting point, assuming around 32:1 premix ratio and average (60-80F) temps. Got some stuff in the Jetting FAQ if you want to check it out. Good luck.

Here's a few: www.flattrackmac.com (lotsa links and a small forum) www.twincreeksraceway.com (Greenbrier, AR track, sometimes has info on Bullet Motorsport's track in Brashear, TX) www.atvscene.com (info on Nationals) I've been to the Brashear track and it was a blast, talked to some guys there that also raced in Waco. Twin Creeks is supposed to be a great track, looks like next year they will both host National races. I've been racing TT for a couple years and love it, and there's a few others here like D34 with lotsa experience, if you need anything let us know.

ROFL Lefty! Is that your "Crying Game" impression?

Right on sneeky! Some fast competition there, nothing wrong with your results, and sounds like you had fun so that's what really matters. Keep it up!