BenBB

Sheebroke you still need one? You're talking about the pickup coil mounted to the stator plate, right? I have one off my '96, stator went out but the pickup coil ohms out OK. If you need it let me know, I THINK Ricky Stator still sells them new for $53, I'd take whatever you think is fair for it, I dunno $30 shipped sound too high? Let me know if you still need it or if that's asking too much...

Thanks fixitrod, I had come across that Vince's in a web search, along with a couple others (like Madman). I need to email Spec II also, but I guess I'll hafta call Trinity for a price w/center brgs and the Hot Rods (they have no email addy on their contact page, WTF?). Nobody local here, heh, she's gonna hafta take a ride in the UPS truck

I don't think you need to mess with the needles, try adjusting the airscrews in (richer) a half turn at a time and see if that helps. Depending on how much colder it is now, you'll probably need to jet the mains a size or two larger as well (say if it ran perfect at WOT when it was 60 degrees F and had 200 mains, for 40 degrees F try 210s, for 20 degrees F try 220s; a main jet size is good for roughly a 20-30 degree temp range). Good luck.

BansheeJerry, sounds like you're on the right track, just make sure you aren't TOO lean on the mains now that it's cold...from your description though it sounds like you could drop a size on the mains during the summer to get that power back.

For your riding, I would be seriously considering CPI inframe pipes, a single K&N with Outerwear on an adapter plate (UMI or Pro Design), no airbox lid, jet it right and get some Skat Trak Haulers or Hauler Extremes. After that, just a matter of how much you want to spend; porting, head mod/coolhead, v-force cages/ported stock cages & TDR reeds, advance the timing, carbs, play with the gearing, go longer on the swingarm, and hold on... To your second question, I don't the TR6's are bad pipes either, but I don't think they are the best for everyone. If you're planning on alot of mods sooner or later, I would factor that in and plan accordingly. Pretty much any of the mid to topend pipes are better than stock for what you want to do, so take a look around and ask alot of questions.

Got my RZ crank ready to be sent off for a rebuild, true & weld. I was planning on having TDR do the work but they won't cut me a break; I found a source for a TZ clutch side bearing and a 10-ball stator side bearing for cheap (well nothing actually, I'll get them through work and they will be high-quality bearings). So all I need a price on is a rebuildable inner web with 10-ball bearings, new hot rods (going with long rods), and a true & weld. TDR is gonna charge me the same $350 as if I got ALL the bearings, WTF? So I've emailed GRR, MP Racing and LRD, who else would you trust your crank to? I've emailed Dan @ Patriot but I know he's pretty busy, not that I'm in a bind for the crank but just thought I'd get an idea of who else to contact. If you see this PassionRE or anyone else that can do it, please give me a price, either here or via PM/email. Thanks!

Make sure when she opens it you say "I got there for you because you're the shit, hon"

True. I've raced 2; one in TT that was essentially stock (like just tires) that I beat, but I have no idea by how much (the only reason I really know I raced one was looking at some pics after the race)...in that race I came in 3rd behind a 250R and a CRF450 in a 250R frame. The second one I raced was at the dunes last Sunday, he had a hi-comp piston, Webb cam, Alba pipe, some kinda rev box, and no airbox lid, oh yeah and new ITP paddles. I only beat him in a drag race by about 3 bike lengths... So yeah they are no slouch, nice bikes for sure...I wouldn't sell my Banshee for one but it would make a nice compliment to my garage, no doubt.

Might just need to adjust the airscrews a half turn or more richer (clockwise)...

Check out www.gamefly.com , they have some really good prices in the "preplayed" section. I heven't tried their rental service yet but supposedly it's pretty cool...

I used 1-1/8" Hydraulic hose. If you can find something close you can always use some hi-temp RTV on the inside to help it seal and hold up to the exhuast heat a little better. Boonman you must be thinkin' of a different kinda pipe (a hooka?)...

It doesn't matter, they both fire at the same time. I'm sure someone smart can explain why (my feeble guess is that since there's only a single coil that leads straight to the plug leads, it has to; it would require a distributor or separate coils to fire the cylinders separately).

Thanks Screamin, I'll be well under 400cc with both my Banshee and RZ motor, I think the .018's would work great. You're running the Hypertension and not the Carbon Fibers, right?

More questions: when you turn on the fuel (assuming there's fuel in the tank), try to start it, turn off the fuel and pull the carbs, is there fuel in the float bowls or not? If not then either the float is stuck closed (kinda rare) or the floats are set waaaaay to high. If there is fuel in the bowls, make sure the mains AND the pilots aren't clogged; remove them and make sure the center passage is clear. Then make sure the choke tube is in place between the carbs, the slides aren't reversed (the cutout on the bottom of the carbs should face the airbox), and the carbs are in sync, and try again...and see if having the choke on or off makes a difference...

You need to just jet the mains a size or two larger. The Jetting FAQ might help if you want to check it out...

Yes Glamis is real close to sea level. If you're running a K&N in the airbox with no airbox lid (what I would recommend, with an Outerwear, but you'll need an adapter plate that doesn't rely on the airbox lid to secure the air filter in place), I'd start with 320 mains, 30 pilots, airscrews 1.5 turns out, and needles in the stock (middle) clip position. Assuming premix ratio around 32:1 and temps 60-80F that should be a safely rich starting point, and if it bogs at WOT you can work your way down on the mains until it revs out clean. Good luck.

You should be pretty close, start with the airscrews and see if you can get a good off-idle response (you might need 30 pilots), then try moving the needles...and I'm just guessing but you might try a size or two larger on the mains just in case the 310's aren't big enough (if you hadn't gotten a recommendation already I would've said 30 pilots, needle in the stock position, and 320 or 330 mains to start out). Unfortunately jetting is alot of trial and error, but the good thing is, it's worth the effort. Just dial in one circuit at a time (adjust the airscrews, go ride it, readjust, etc.). Good luck.

Thanks Fixitrod, I was leaning towards the TDR's but wanted to make sure.

Besides riding, working on or talking about Banshees? Eat, sleep, chasin' the wife and work...about the only other thing I have time for is gaming; still working at Final Fantasy Tactics Advance on my GBA SP (love that thing), my son & I just got Soul Calibur 2 on the Gamecube that's gettin pretty damn hard ta beat (must have Mario Party 5 and F-Zero GX!), and once in a while some Warcraft 3 or Mechcommander 2 on the PC... The older I get the more I realize all that really matters to me is; 1.My Banshee (riding, racing, meetin' new people to ride with, working on it, etc.) 2.My wife (I'm a pussy addict and admit it) 3.My friends & family (the best part is playin' video games, guess I never grew up...a close second is cookin' out or going out to eat) Call me a pathetic loser if you like, but hey I'm happy

Fixitrod, I've been meaning to ask you about those pics, looks like Boyeson dual-stage reeds are on the ported cages...any idea how TDR's compare to Boyeson? Just curious if you've tried both or not.

Hell yeah, I'll see what I can do on the truck situation, got a few options there...if nothing else I'll take the Chevy x-cab and pull my little 5x8 trailer with my Banshee on it, then we can put yours in the bed. Then it's just a matter of cramming everything in the back 'o the cab and whatever space is left in the short bed (premix and beer will obviously be most important). You buy the beer and I'll cover the fuel mebbe? I'm bringin' a few pounds of hot-as-f*ck beef jerky... Is anyone else coming with ya? If so, I might could try to get ahold of a 4-door Ford Powerchoke and either a 16' bumper-pull (hold probably 4 quads sideways) or a 24' gooseneck (6 quads easy). Fuel will cost more but if we got a few people to kick in it wouldn't be bad...

Yep theeechozen1, I'm gonna be there. I don't have B370's senior executive bankroll, heh, but I got $400-$500 set aside for the trip. Prescott and back cost about $150 in fuel, and that was in the Dodge 1-ton pulling a little enclosed trailer. This trip I'll probably just take the half ton with the Banshee in the bed, guess I'll just pass out every night, hope I don't freeze to death or wake up buried under a Z400 So I should bring my Holeshots too Blue Duece? Oh yeah, is there anywhere close where I can buy a flag/whip? Just a matter of working out the details, gotta find the shortest route but you got a place I can crash on the way and the way back theeechozen1? That would help, otherwise I can stay in Casa Grande again with another buddy. Still not real sure where the hell Dumont is at...need to look at some maps...I used to live in Parker, AZ and across the river in Parker Dam, but that was like 20 years ago...

Look Here Draining the overflow bottle is pretty normal, what's important is to see that your actual radiator isn't low on coolant. If not, relocate or remove the coolant bottle and problem solved.

Pretty sure my Holeshots are 21x7x10, but like frocashmoney24 said, check out ROcky Mountain ATV, they have good prices on tires and great service.

You coulda saved a couple bucks if you didn't include the factory tool kit...