BenBB

I dunno for sure if it would solve your problem, but you might keep an eye out for some used expansion chambers. For sure try new o-rings, and if the springs aren't tight enough to make a good seal at the jugs you can curl one end a little bit to add some tension. An exhuast leak can case a lean condition, aside from the mess, so I'd try to get her sealed up the best you can. Good luck.

BdBanshee is right on, I've reinforced mine, it's a small tab at the very bottom of the steering stem, just to the front, about 1-1/4" wide. You just want to add some material so it's not quite so easy to bend forward when the "tits" on the steering stem slams it. I'd also take off the tabs you don't need, like the little bumpers for the stock pipes (just rear of the lower a-arm), the two for the stock heelgaurds if you don't run them, the two for the front fender bracket if you have no front fenders, and get a cheater bar to straighten that right grab bar mount...

Nice pics BdBanshee, any chance I can use that first one in the Electrical FAQ?

Here's a couple things to check; float level on the left carb, reeds, swap the coil wires and see if the problem follows the wires, pull the coil and have a shop bench test it, and finally check the compression on both sides. You have unplugged the TORS control box, right? Good luck.

I'd try replacing that cable first and see if it happens again; if it does, shut her down and see if the slide is stuck open or not. I've had mine stick open once when a piece of debris lodged in the needle seat, so the slide could not lower (the problem was one of the petcock strainers inside the tank fell off letting crap get into the carb, but of course this was on a Banshee so the other cylinder was still running). Another time my slide hung up on the little aligning tab that the groove on the slide runs on; it got loose and turned sideways, and wouldn't let the slide lower. Neither of these things are likely for your application but if it does happen again take a look at the carb and see if the problem is visible or not. Good luck.

ROFL!! And I thought the title alone was a little...questionable. You a closet romance novelist PolyKarbon? I'll admit to a little billet envy...

Well at least this one is spelled right, heh. Don't worry, we won't hold it against you...

ROFL! No shit, I got a pair of steel toes, some Vans, and my MSR riding boots. My wife's hoard of shoes are overflowing my side of the closet and have pretty much taken over.

Yeah, it's easier if you pull the left carb. Also when you get the old one disconnected and before you yank it out, tape the end of the new one to the old one and pull it through (tape the top of the new to the bottom of old or bottom of new to top of old) so you don't have to mess with the routing.

They are all pretty much the same, either from Toomey or Vito's or wherever. Toomey has good instructions on their website, and there's some info in the Jetting FAQ below...

Should be a pretty painless swap, the one thing that is probably different is where the pipe expansion chambers mount to the cylinders, on my RZ they use a 2-bolt flange instead of a spigot & springs. But yeah it should work...is your RD powervalved and liquid cooled? I thought they were called RZ in Canada also, and RD's were air cooled...mebbe that was just the RD400.

I got two options for ya: a smaller fuel filter (I run a clear plastic one, Napa 3011BP), or a dual petcock (either mod the stock one or a Pingel). Even with dual lines you may need smaller filters, but I think you're better off with in-lines than the stock strainers. If you keep an eye on your fuel level having different fuel line lengths to each carb from the tee wouldn't hurt anything, it's just when you run out of fuel that there's the potential for one carb to keep feeding fuel while the other is dry.

I'd start with 320 mains, 30 pilots, needle clip one position leaner than stock (2nd groove from the top or blunt end), and airscrews 1.5 turns out. Assuming 32:1 premix ratio and 60-80 degree temps, should be a safe starting point (may need a size or two larger on the mains but that's where I would start).

I don't have AIM, sorry. Have you tried adjusting the needle clip at all? Sounds like it could go a clip position leaner, or mebbe try a different needle (not sure what to tell you on a Keihen).

My Fattys with Power Core 2's fit pretty fair, but not perfect (the previous owner of the silencers had drilled out the stinger bracket to make it fit). Is it leaking at the cylinder or the clamp...or either one depending on how you mount 'em? I would get it to seal right at the cylinder, and either use a little hi-temp RTV on the clamps or use a dremel to open up the silencer mounting holes.

If the plugs look rich and it's bogging at WOT, I'd try a main size smaller and see what happens (just don't go too lean!).

When you put the carb back on orange's motor, did you rejet the mains back up the four sizes? Is the air filter clean & oiled? How about the reeds, they look OK? If it's a high-speed miss and you're sure of the jetting, it could be the coil failing, try swapping those. If that doesn't work try going a size larger or smaller on the main and see if it helps (or go up a size until it bogs at WOT and then drop one size). Is the compression OK? Good luck.

Not sure if this will help, I took the wiring diagram I found and cut it down to what I think I'll need, bear in mind I haven't got that far yet...

xt45, aren't you in AUS? And you said car, what kinda car are we talking about?

Believe dat Meat, you (and the HQ) can do it, just gotta apply yoself. I'm not sure which approach would work best tho, any way you can contact the Rausch Creek guys and see what they did? Here a while back a few guys got together and formed a non-profit organization, and got some land donated (tax writeoff I possibly) to build an MX track on. I don't know if it was actually given to them (I doubt it), leased, or they just let them do on it whatever they wanted. Part of the deal was maintaining a locked fence for insurance purposes, this was a small area tho so not a big deal, maybe 5 acres. Then riders just signed a waiver and the landowner is not held liable for injuries. It sounds to me like insurance and liability are gonna be your biggest hurdle, but you might be able to find out something from RC and Tower City and see what they do. As big an area as it sounds like, preventing access may be near impossible. BUT if you could form a group of guys that would be willing to help out, it may not be too far fetched. I can help out with letter writing to Reading, if you need it, that's one of the things I do at work all the time (sugar coating shit). Damn, I see Abyss just posted a reply, gotta read that before I ramble on any farther...

I'd be looking at either Quicksand, Ricky Stator (what I run), or Janssen. I'd avoid American Stars or any company that sells them under another name...

Yep, just two more weeks to go. I'm headed to the dunes this weekend, and next weekend I'm gonna try to mod my silencers, not sure if I can make it up that way (prolly not). You get that head back yet?!? Hope you're breaking it in by this Sunday, throw some roost on Jason & Chris for me...

Right on locogato!! I'll hafta swing by Hastings and scope it out...

I wonder if Pierson's milk vetch (or whetever the damn thing is called) is one of the 12 out of 3000 that recovered. Hopefully they'll make some changes and open up the rest of Glamis, but I won't put too much faith in beauracracy...

Damn reas, you oughta now by now that spider-man shit don't fly. Good to hear yer feeling a little better, hope you have a full recovery. I still think you're either damn lucky to not break a bone, or just too hard-headed (like my wife would say). Take it easy.