BenBB

Yeah, looks more like a vacation to me, heh. Pike?

The nut is like 32mm(?) but a 1-1/4" socket will fit. It's an easy job, the biggest pain in the ass is adjusting the chain when you're done. Here's a quick how-to: Remove the left footpeg. Remove the shift lever. Remove the stator cover. Pry the lockwasher on the front sprocket flat. Have someone stand on the rear brake and/or stick a bar through the openings in the rear sprocket and rear brake rotor so it can't rotate while you take off the nut. Use that 1-1/4" socket and a breaker bar to loosen the nut. Pull off the nut and washer (the hollow side of the nut goes towards the inside). See if you can slide the sprocket off the countershaft without breaking the chain, if so you can just set the new one on the chain and slide it onto the shaft; if not try loosening the chain adjustment and see if you got the slack; worst case you gotta take off the master link of the chain. Installation is just the reverse, tighten the nut but don't put a 6' cheater on it or anything (I never use a torque wrench but I'm sure the Clymer manual has a value for it), and remember to keep the lockwasher centered on the splines and then bend one side over a flat edge of the nut. Then adjust the chain (ugh).

Oh god. Good luck man, I broke a drill bit off, then the damn ez-out...and that was just on one of 'em. It'll be alot easier if you can pull it off (just gotta remove the LH hub and the two axle nuts, it should slide off the axle splines, should being the key word). If you notice probably 90% of the sprocket hubs on ebay have a stripped or busted stud... Oh yeah one more thing, when you get it back together DON'T torque those nuts to 20 or 30 ft-lbs like the Clymer says, that's how I stripped mine, just get 'em tight and let the locks (and/or loctite) hold them in place.

ROFL Stan!! HAHAHAHAAA!!

Dell...count on being on hold for an hour or three and then tryin' to decipher frickin' Hindu. Whatever you do, DON'T replace the power supply with a standard ATX, it may not work and worst case will fry the motherboard. Can you get into the BIOS (hit F1 as soon as it beeps, maybe it's F12, I forget)? You sure the monitor is on (light green?)?

Yeah the tracked machines are cool, until you hafta replace a track; we run a Cat Challenger 75E and each side was about 4 grand. Aight sredish, we can haul a scraper, D6 dozer, a roller and a blade over there and build you a nice supercross arena, if you pour the pad fer my house and the 40'x50' metal shop building on the 10 acres I just bought (don't laugh, 10 is plenty for me). Deal?

OK if you're gonna pull the carbs, make certain you check the pilots as boonman said, they have a tiny passage that is easily clogged (use a real fine wire to clean them and the mains). Also take a look at the carb boots (on the reed cage side) for any cracks as J.J. suggested. When you said it idled up real high, it sounds like an air leak or obstructed jet (pilot and/or main). 110 psi isn't bad, especially if you are above sea level (at 3500' I got around 130 psi on a fresh topend), as long as it's even on both sides it should still fire up. One more thing, once you are done cleaning the carbs and kick it over about 10 times (try the choke on & off, throttle closed and open), if it doesn't start you SHOULD have some fuel on the plugs, smell 'em and see; if no fuel at all it could be clogged jets or floats stuck closed (if they are stuck closed there won't be any fuel in the bowls when you pull the carbs). Good luck and keep us posted.

Niiiice sredish, a little bigger than what I need to build a track, but with a loader it would make quick work of monster tabletops, and with a disc I'd have a sweet groomed dragstrip. Cool, yes I'm a little green cause I work at a Massey-Ferguson dealership Here's some yellow, our company just bought three of these, brand new Cat 623G scrapers, Muahhahaha!!!:

I just checked out the exploded view at sudco.com, I think you're right. I had a similar carb on a 250R and turning the choke knob does adjust the idle, BUT there's also an airscrew. Have you tried going all the way in & out with the choke and airscrew? Just curious, hopefully someone more familiar with it will post...

Hmm, so there's warning labels on the steering column, huh? Maybe I need to take a look at my steering stem, right after I fit a frickin' roll cage, geez. Sounds like Canada wants to follow our shitty "legislate it to death" policy, let's hope that's not the case. The only bright point was that they did mention education, that along with responsibility (on parents, not manufacturers) will go a long way...

OK, added a buncha pics and think I got everything right, check it out if you get a chance and let me know if anything is wrong or missing: http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/elecfaq.html

Blacksmith, I don't know how the PJ is set up exactly, but you should have a way to set the idle speed, separate from the throttle cable adjuster itself. Sounds to me like the jetting isn't the problem, so much as the idle speed adjustment. Your pilots control mixture at idle, and the airscrews (or fuelscrews, depending on which side of the slide they are on), fine tune the mixture. If you had an erratic idle the pilots could be rich or lean; a real high idle would likely be lean pilots (along with not wanting to start when hot without the choke); difficult starting when cold with the choke on and subsequent flooding is likely rich pilots. All of these can be made worse if the air/fuel screws are way outta whack. Even if the pilot/airscrew circuit is dialed in perfect, it won't idle if you don't have the idle speed adjusted high enough. Some carbs use a screw that hits a ramp on the slide (like stock carbs with the TORS removed) to raise the slide, and increase the idle speed. Your PJ's might use the throttle cable adjuster on the top like you're doing now, I don't know for sure, but if that's the case you need to make sure to adjust the cable at the thumb/twist so that the cable itself has some slack in it. Anyway, see if you can find the idle speed adjustment, find the air/fuelscrews and try to set them in the middle of their adjustment range (if you can back them out 3 turns from seated, start at 1.5 turns out), and pick the pilot jet you think is closest to being right. Then adjust the air/fuelscrew so you get a clean idle and a good off-idle response (doesn't stumble or hesitate right off idle), and adjust the idle speed where you want it. If all else fails you might check the compression and the reeds just in case, along with the intake for any air leaks. Good luck.

That's crazy. Good to hear you're both OK, but damn, not the kind of riding trip you had planned.

I guess you could use bolts, mine has studs, along with lock tabs running between every two nuts. I did strip one of those bastards and never could get the damn thing out, wound up getting a good used one from B370. Anyway, what happened? Did the nuts(bolts?) come off or were they sheared? That's certainly not somewhere that you want hardware flyin' off or breaking...

OK, got a few pics added and most of the missing information added, if anyone has the time to read through it and let me know if there's anything wrong or if it's just too damn long, please do. Got any pics Meat? Here's the link: Banshee Electrical FAQ v1.1

I'm 5'11" also, around 160#. Front shocks helped me alot, although I think it helped with arm fatigue more than lower back pain. Of course, I could fly through whoops faster and DID get a sore back, I got a kidney belt and like led said, don't ride without it; it helps ALOT. Depending on where you're riding, you might also try adjusting your rear shock compression and rebound, and maybe rotating the bars in the stem mount farther forward or back (I run CR hi-bend bars and they are alot lower and flatter).

Right on Turbo!! Just look at that shit-eating grin when the bikinis came out, hahahaha you lucky bastard! Pretty damn sweet, glad you got it won.

Chile sounds pretty fun stu, too bad no Banshee!

DEF!! Where the hell have you been?! Not sure I've seen anybody's RZ jetting, Minkia38 has one running, as does broke and rzcolobanshee (that I can think of offhand), you might PM them and/or see if they post here. I don't know where Meat's at on his but I don't think he has it together yet. I'm waiting on my RZ jugs to get back from Patriot now. Meat_Head is another Canadian, he's not running RZ cylinders but has Cheetah PV cylinders I think. Here's a couple links to RZ boards you might check out: http://www.2stroke.cc http://www.yamaha-rd.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=2

Sears has decent compression testers for around $20-30 too. Sounds to me like it's jetting; you say it's 90 degrees (higher temps make it run richer), and you went from 24:1 to 32:1 (24:1 has more oil so less fuel, when you changed ratios it made you richer), soooo I think you fouled a plug (sometimes they will still spark when you test them but won't when installed if they are starting to foul). I'd try two fresh spark plugs, make sure the air filter is clean (if you didn't clean it after the last ride and it's filthy that makes you even richer), back out the airscrews a half turn (leaner) and try again. It never hurts to check the compression too, but if doing the above gets it started, you might want to verify your mains and make sure they aren't rich also. Good luck.

Could be jetting (sounds like the mains is where the problem is), but it also could be a cracked reed or the coil starting to fail. You can use the choke trick to see if it's just lean on the jetting; warm it up and pop the choke out to the first notch, if it runs better and doesn't miss (or not as bad), try a size or two larger main and see how it runs (with the choke off). Good luck.

Thanks Scott, I can use that one in the section under lightened flywheels, that reminds me I need to dig through the images forum for those that boonman posted and see if they're still there...

Like the title sez, looking for some decent stock 9" rear wheels ('91 and up 115mm bolt pattern). If you have any you want to get rid of let me know, I'd prefer bare aluminum (silver) but if the price is right gold anodized would work, just don't want the painted (steel?) ones. I'm thinkin' they would be worth around 50 bucks, since if I don't find them I'll get some ITP's with the tires, and they'll cost about $65. Also, Douglas or ITP 9" .190 rears would work so whatever you got, lemme know...

If you're parting it out I'm looking for some stock rear rims...

Thanks J.J., let me know if you think it's TOO long, I could take out some of the first questions. Matt, it's not done yet! I still want to add some pics and make sure I've got everything right... Holyman, if you read this, I need to see if it's OK to use your pic of the flywheel holder you built...