BenBB

Not for reeds, they usually make it run rich, so you MAY need to lean it out. See how it runs with the jetting you've got, but chances are it'll be a little doggy in the midrange and dropping the needle (one slot leaner-towards the blunt end) will clear it up. Same goes for the mains, maybe drop a size if it bogs on top, if not leave it where it's at. Delta's sometimes like one size richer pilot (if it's still lean at idle and right off idle with the airscrews 3 or more turns out), depends on your mods and what shee likes, the airscrews may need fine tuning as well...

I've been using wikipedia alot for school and a while back noticed there was like a blank page for "Yamaha Banshee 350", apparently somebody posted something and someone else didn't like it , so I wrote out the basics and the specs for it here. It wouldn't let me post a pic though, something about membership or some shit I dunno, if you look at the history somebody else tried as well, along with adding that last line of text in the first paragraph heh.

Ditto...round housing or stock?

Most likely, yes. You may only need to lean out the needle one clip position (typical for aftermarket reeds), but you might also have to drop the mains a size or two...

Elka definitely makes quality products, honestly I don't think you can go wrong with them or any of the other aftermarket companies. You pretty much get what you pay for so in general (there are exceptions, like "package deals" that aren't all they're cracked up to be) get the most expensive shock you can afford...and in some cases that you're willing to wait for... Alot of it comes down to brand preference, like the Ford vs. Chevy thing heh, chances are out on the track or trail you couldn't tell the difference between a $1500 set of Elkas or Custom Axis, or between a $400 set of Works or Progressive...IF they're set up right (you will feel a difference between the $400 shocks and the $1500 ones obviously). If you've got the time find out what the difference really is and if it's worth it; I haven't looked at those Revs but if they have compression/rebound adjustment then hell yeah I'd shell out another hundred for 'em (Works Steelers are preload adjustment only)...if all the features are exactly the same it's up to you to decide if that yellow sticker and red anodized head is worth the extra hundo...

I've been running Works triple rate Steelers w/rezzies for, damn I guess it's been 4 or 5 years now. Started out running TT, dunes and trails, have been racing cross-country for the last 3 years with NMDRC. I'm currently sponsored by Works (level 3), here's my take on them: 1. Dollar for dollar and bang for the buck, you can't go wrong with Works; especially on a Banshee, once you start riding beyond what the stock shocks can handle even a set of low-end Steelers are worth every penny. There's been some more competition lately in the less expensive shock market, like Progressive, so you've got other options on a tight budget, but I would definitely consider Works as well and recommend them. 2. Customer support is fantastic. Every time I've called for anything they have gone way out of their way; even before I approached them for sponsorship Oscar in service hooked me up with replacement springs for free, then afterwards I got a set of billet rezzies for next to nothing while I had them there for rebuilding/revalving. Good guys to deal with. 3. The only breakage I had was the top (smallest) spring on my triple rates, the bodies & shafts themselves have never broken or bent. I think it happened twice, Works replaced them for free both times, and when I sent them in for service (doing desert racing primarily and needed revalving for the extra weight of the tank, skidplates, etc.) I went with a heavier spring and have never broken one again, and that's been about a year ago of racing through some pretty nasty whoops. 4. Works came out with some serious competition for the high-end shock market; check out the Black Widows and Pro-G series. Also take a look at PEP, arguably one of the best in the industry; their shocks are built from Works cores (somebody correct me if I'm wrong). When I've got the means I'll be trying out a set of the Pro-G shocks for myself. The biggest differences in top-end shocks are rod diameter (Steelers use 1/2", I believe Works' Pro-G and most others like Custom Axis, TCS, Elka, etc. use 5/8"), damping system (Works uses a check valve and touts it as more advanced than shim stacks-probably more a subjective opinion than definitive...this may not be the case on all of Works' products), and springs (some use Eibach, Works and others are proprietary). 5. Not really Works specifically, but without a drastic change in front end geometry even the highest-dollar shocks & a-arms will only get you so far with the stock frame setup...yes you can improve it tremendously but bear in mind it wasn't designed to carve as precisely as a 250R or current-gen 450's, and it won't without serious $$$ or effort. All in all I'm happy with mine, and when I can afford it I'll be putting Works shocks on my son's Banshee as well...

I'm not sure, where are you reading that, on the orange wire where it connects to the coil? I can test my son's Banshee tonight and see what it reads (mine's down right now waiting on an RZ stator...from Electrex in UK)...

Hahaha James that's dead sexy!! :yelrotflmao: Just don't go postin' pics of haggis...

Hey broke I'll trade you an '04 Blaster straight up for that Outlaw frame My kids would kill me though :ermm:

Intermittant is the worst, definitely check those grounds. Just from experience, my CDI failure was all or nothing, no in between; when it decided it was done I never got it to spark again at all. Still could be the culprit but if it was mine I would rule out everything else (or borrow one to swap in) first...

I like Wiseco Pro-Lites but opinions vary, generally speaking forged pistons are lighter but should be allowed to warm up fully before you get on it, cast pistons can take abuse (like kick it and go) a little better...

Kman +4 is safe, beyond that you're risking detonation/preignition without race fuel... Easyrider I haven't heard from boonman in forever, he just busy as hell or ???

1. Stator (black wire to stator itself or timing plate, don't remember exactly but you'll see it) 2. Voltage Regulator (or at least near it, stock there's an eyelet terminal from the harness that grounds to the frame at one of the volt reg mounting bolts) 3. Coil (the coil itself grounds to the frame at one of the mounting bolts; not a wire, well there is a ground wire going to it also but it fits on the spade terminal, then the coil itself grounds to the frame at the mounting bolt)

Juuuuuuuust a little too much toe-in heh :wink: I snapped one of 'em myself at the last race, thankfully didn't hit a tree heh. Anyway after having it happen several times I'm finally upgrading to Honda style tie rods & ends (female threaded ends and a solid rod), RMA carries Tusk for about $105 (free freight over $100), I found some at www.trailtracksand.com for $90 ($102 with freight) and will see how well they hold up...

Now those things are INSANE, a well built ATC250R is just crazy fast. I had a mostly stock '86 250R before my Banshee, lotsa fun. I'm still pissed at Honda for pussing out in '89 and halting production though...

Right on!!! Damn dude, bone stock...that's hardcore heh.

Doug that is awesome, any chance of having a seminar in Phoenix??? Riverside is a damn long haul for me but I could swing AZ, hopefully you'll have enough interest to merit more seminars...regardless I bookmarked your web page and WILL be back, the short courses on frames and suspension sound SICK. As soon as I finish my degree (about 9 weeks) I'm gonna find a way...

I'm not sure offhand, but if someone doesn't post that knows for certain, you should be able to just disconnect it at the connector, no splicing or anything. You'll know right away because it won't rev much beyond idle if the TORS thinks the e-brake is engaged...

Have you priced an OEM RZ head lately?? I don't even know if you can get 'em anymore from Yamaha, if so I'm sure they want yer firstborn. It's got nothing to do with cooling, just the fact that when (for me it's not "if" heh) something lets go, finding a replacement head can be a bitch. Eventually RZ heads on ebay are gonna dry up, if I could just swap PD domes not only would I be able to replace just the dome that's fucked up in the event of a failure, I could change my domes out for high elevation races without getting a whole different head...or run pump gas at the dunes and bump the compression way up and use race gas for races. It's the replacable domes man, the dooooooooomes :biggrin: Plus if it's o-ringed you can re-use the o-rings instead of buying a new head gasket. Thanks itsaripper, I'll give him a call one of these days and see what it would cost, I'm sure somebody can mod the stocker...

Yes they do, actually there's two different styles of RZ heads, one has a smaller "pocket" than the other that looks just like a Banshee combustion chamber (I didn't find that out until I sent my head to Dan...after I polished it, now it's hangin' on the garage wall). Anyway I've got one of those heads with the small pocket, I'd be more than happy to send it to ya for the project, let me know!!!

Who doesn't like to show off in front of a camera?! Usually it's about as bad as seeing babes trackside...something like "jeez that jump is insane I ain't gonna hit it, oh wait look at the jugs on those chicks, watch this superman seat grab [huck][crash][mangle][broken bike][hospital bill]"...kinda comes with the testacles heh. Anytime you're in NM Bill lemme know, more like anytime you're passing through on the way to someplace decent heh. I've seen photographers at NMDRC and ATVCCS races, alot of times they'll take pics of everyone and sell the prints either in person or online; same for WORCS and I'm sure plenty of other races (GNCC, SCORE, etc. etc.).

I wish Laughin wasn't so damn far, that AVI 150 sounds sick, quads only :baseball_w00t:

OMFG...here's some funny shit for ya; liquedfire mentioned pics and being the dumbass that I am, nonchalantly typed in www.can-am.com...thank GOD it has a disclaimer before you enter because it's a GAY WRESTLING SITE :baseball_bat: . Ouch, that ain't gonna help sell any $9k quads...and no I don't think it's babes jell-o wrestling either, I saw "men" and got the hell out of there :ermm:

RZ Gods...ok I gotta go search for that one heh. C-Fizzle there's an RZ350 service manual (Yamaha) online somewhere, I've got it zipped if you want me to email it, pretty decent info on everything. On adjusting the pv's; essentially you line up the notch on the plastic cable holder with a hole in the jug just behind it and adjust the cables for NO free play. You've got the whole RZ electrical system right? Stator, flywheel, CDI, volt reg, PV box, etc.? Here's a good site Quinlan gave me for using different year electricals together: http://domlnator.tripod.com/id25.html

I know Pro Design HAS made them, whether or not they still do I'm not sure, had an old link and it's not working anymore...I would definitely be down for one if they were available from anyone, Just being able to replace the domes without replacing the whole head would be great, I'm sure I'll trash mine one of these days and sooner or later they will be real scarce...