BenBB

Slim, at least in the quarter. I agree gearing at the big end is probably going to be your downfall, although I'm not real familiar with SV's and don't know how good the other dude is at launching it (well either of you heh). One way to find out though, I'd like to hear how it turns out...

The 50 might be 0.5mm overbore (0.020") or it might be .050" overbore (1.25mm)...but if it was mine I'd have a reputable shop mic it, bore it to the next oversize and get new pistons to match, to be on the safe side; both the pistons and the cylinder liner are wear parts on a 2-stroke, just dropping in new pistons won't cure an oval bore in the cylinders...

Tony you got a PM...

Ricky Stator makes damn good stuff, I never had a problem with theirs. I haven't tried Electrex yet but I'm going to order one today for my RZ (Ricky doesn't have 'em). If you're going all-out with a drag bike you might consider an MSD system...

Those spike nuts are sick

On the newer CDI's there is an extra purple (usually) wire that has to do with the TORS, I would make sure that one is taped off and that the red/black is grounded well... You need to make sure you have these wires connected (and continuity) to make it run: Stator to CDI: Black Red Green Red/White Green/White CDI to coil: Black Orange CDI to kill switch: Black/White Black CDI & Stator to frame: Black (you got that covered) AND you need to make sure Red/Black is grounded somewhere, cut and twisted together to black before or after the connector for the key switch should be ok, for a cleaner look make a jumper with the key switch side connector so that Red/Black is connected straight to Black. For the purple wire, one way to do it is at the CDI connector, on the harness side remove the terminal from the connector (use a sharp pick to release the terminal, there's a little plastic tab inside the connector that keeps it in place), lay the wire back on the harness and tape it off. Just make double sure you have everything else going to the stator (red, green, r/w, g/w, black, orange, black/white, black/red). If all that's kosher and you've unplugged the TORS control box, the only thing that's left is the flywheel...unless one of the new components is DOA (not unheard of); you can test the stator with a meter or swap in one of those extra CDI's and see if it changes anything... One more thing, you need to make sure black/white is NOT grounded, it'll tell the CDI to shut down; you might find that connector and unplug it and see if that changes anything, if so the kill switch is either "off" or completing the circuit when it shouldn't...

It happens...stator just went out on mine too ::

When you cut the key switch wires, did you ground red/black??

I'd definitely try new plugs first, then do resistance test on the stator...

Yes it's AC, not sure exactly how many volts it oughta have but according to this RZ350 electricals page you oughta have at least 0.4V while kicking it over...the system is very similar though and the coils interchangable...

That's what I did, have several pages of hand-written wiring diagrams for the RZ. Depending on how you locate things, you'll only need like 3' or 4' of each color (stock CDI location), a little more for the kill circuit and the ground circuit to reach the bars. Get extra if you can, like 10' and you won't run short. I thought about running mine through the frame too heh, seen 'em do it on choppers and makes for a damn clean look, just don't know if they have little rubber grommets where it goes in or what they use to keep the wires from shorting out against the metal. Anyway just lay it all out and route it how you want it, measure twice and cut once; you can use that plastic wire loom or electrical tape in different colors to keep it all together, supposedly zip ties are bad mojo for wires because of rubbing issues but as long as they aren't too tight they work fine (the stock frame hanger things work well too where the wires get close to the silencers/stingers). Don't forget at least one eyelet terminal to ground the harness to the frame, oh and you can use just off-the-shelf female spade terminals (solderless or crimp-type) for the two wires at the coil, I found some decent hooded ones for a relatively weatherproof connection... Yup Justin you'll see it if you unwrap the whole harness, the TORS stuff is pretty much separate, probably uses the common ground that runs through the whole harness (kinda cool how Yamaha does the ground). The stock wire itself and the connectors are pretty decent, I'd stick with those unless you have access to something better.

Yep you can do it with 16ga wire, you only really need: white/green white/red red green black orange black/white That's just to make it run; the yellow wire from the stator can just be taped off, then you have the five from the stator to the cdi (black, green, red, g/w, r/w) and then black and an orange going back up to the coil. That's no kill circuit though, when you ground black/white it signals the CDI to shut off the ignition (supposedly better for the CDI than grounding orange at the coil even though that works too I'd prefer grounding b/w). Black/red from the CDI needs to be connected to black to run (the key switch circuit, it'll tell the CDI to turn off if it ISN'T grounded). I built my RZ harness from scratch and it's not that tough, I used GM Weatherpak connectors and it came out pretty well, one thing I would recommend is to make the stator connector able to go through that hole in the case (oops). Anyway I think I still have a wiring diagram online that shows a minimal harness, with a wiring circuit (you can add that and a volt reg later it all runs off the yellow wire from the stator, well and you'll need grounds for the lights too)... Oh yeah, obviously you don't HAVE to use the same colors, as long as you know what color goes to what it doesn't really matter (I had a hard time finding short lengths and stripes too, subbed like yellow for g/w and orange for b/w, etc.)...

Good one Meat!! Whistlepig :tongue: OMG Dune-a-tic I haven't talked to ya in forever, how the hell is it going?

Damn nice lookin' Banshee but...14 large? Is that in pesos??? I bet I could buy every item on there at retail and still come in under $13,999.99...

The shift shaft is held in place by the clutch cover (there's a casting nub on it that prevents it from moving to the right). The spring thing on that shift shaft goes on that dowel, it should be slotted at the end for a flat blade screwdriver and have a nut that tightens it in place (it's eccentric to adjust the center of the shift lever on the shift star). I think the bolt you're missing is the one that the shift star arm/roller mounts to, yes you need that bolt (it's a special shouldered one), the arm w/roller and the return spring. A water pump gear will set you back around 10 bucks, there's a solid roll pin that it mounts to also that fits in notches on the gear itself, then the gear, a flat washer, and an e-clip. The impeller goes through the clutch cover (where the water pump bearing and seal live) and the gear mounts on the inside of the clutch cover. If ya don't have one a Clymer manual will help alot, as will online parts catalogs like the one at powerpartsplus.com ...

Blaster reeds and cages LOOK identical to stock Banshee reeds & cages (as does the intake-just the balance tube is blocked-the carb is the same with the only possible exception being an air jet for the idle circuit). I really doubt there is any difference at all, at least stock for stock. You can always port your stock reed cages...

Sand Sport is a good one, hard to find around here. I subscribe to ATV Sport and like it. The internet has more porn than I could see in a lifetime...but I still try heh, that's just how I roll

I'm kinda partial to the '96...just 'cause I've got one heh. Brandon's '01 is faster than my '96 was with the about same mods tho, but they ARE all essentially the same as others have mentioned, motor-wise the only difference is how much wear/abuse they've had and how well they were cared for/broken in...

John, I measured 17" eye to eye on my tie rods, and the stock style (female thread) rod measures 13.5"...not sure if 14" is long enough once the ends thread on there... Dustin I forgot to check if it was standard or reverse thread, but each side has one of each, you still got them things laying around somewhere? Any way I could talk ya into sendin' a pair of 'em? I'll give you a call...

Have a good one sredish!!! :beer:

Yes stock bore is 64mm and stock stroke is 54mm = 347cc First overbore size is .010" or .25mm, that makes 64.25mm bore and 350cc...when someone says "thirty over", it means that's the third overbore from stock, or .030" larger. Check out wiseco.com for the chart: displacement, bore size, oversize(mm), oversize(inches): 347 64.00 0.00 0.000 350 64.25 0.25 0.010 352 64.50 0.50 0.020 355 64.75 0.75 0.030 358 65.00 1.00 0.040 361 65.25 1.25 0.050 364 65.50 1.50 0.060 370 66.00 2.00 0.080 376 66.25 2.25 0.090 382 66.50 2.50 0.100

Thanks John!! I'll measure my rods, my front end is +2 but those may work(??), I found a place online that I can get just the Honda style ends for like $22/side...

Hey Dustin which one did you break? One of your inners might work, I'll hafta see if the one I need has regular thread or reverse thread, but I think the LH inner would work...

Snapped another one dammit, anybody got one laying around? I'm savin' up for Honda-style rods & ends, I'll get those before the next desert race in September, but would like to patch up the old one for now (as in CHEAP heh) and do some asphalt drags locally this summer. I've got Paypal, can arrange for free freight via UPS, anybody got one ya don't want alotta $$ for lemme know...

Sorry Travis, this noob is mine heh, literally (my son!). Here's a different avatar, one of the pics you took in Carlsbad at the pits: Right click on it, save it to your computer, then upload it (you already know how to do that since you got one up). Here's a sig pic, if you want something else lemme know, that jump you were hitting across the highway: To put it in your sig you need to use html...find where you typed in all that stuff in your current sig (make it right while you're at it, it's a 2001 to begin with), and type this all on one line: I've got lotsa pics if you want to jack around with photoshop, just let me know what ya want and what email address works...