BenBB

They might be LT, I don't see 'em listed on Lonestar's website anymore but they may have just quit selling them (like the Outlaw frame). The only difference is the lower shock mounting location and the necessity for longer shocks, but anyway, you may need to adjust the lower balljoints inwards as well to get the camber you're after and to keep the upper balljoint threads in the arm. Personally I wouldn't worry about the uppers as long as the balljoint shank male threads take up the a-arm's female threads (like the end of the threads is flush with the a-arm coupler it goes in to, or has some threads beyond showing), the balljoints are purty stout and it would take a whole lot to snap one.

Cool RZBansheeMan. Any probs let me know and I'll help. I looked at a UPS book and it's about $90US for a 5lb. package to Oz (not much difference between 2nd day service and 2-5 days service). USPS is likely cheaper but I don't use 'em much.

That's camber. Snopczynski might not have read that you have aftermarket a-arms; stock a-arms are not camber adjustable. Toe-in refers to the tires angled inwards or outwards when viewed from above, that's adjusted with the tie rods and should be zero or within a half inch. Camber refers to the tires angled inwards or outwards when viewed from the front (in at the top is negative, out is positive, perfectly vertical is zero); 2-3" of negative camber as you describe is way too much, I would adjust it (hopefully with just the upper a-arms at the balljoints) to between 0 and 1" (still negative) and see how she does. Good luck.

Mine was a WAG heh, about a half inch in at the top of the tire from a vertical level flush with the bottom of the tire. The right way would be an angle finder across the rim. People do some crazy shit though so I wouldn't doubt it if it had a ridiculous amount of camber and didn't handle well...it ain't gonna turn quite like a 450R but it damn sure should handle better than a big-bore 4x4. With a Banshee it's all about wheelspin; just add throttle, lean and if you're in the right gear heh, it'll turn on a dime and give ya eight cents change [insert pavement disclaimer here hahaha!].

Not many of us have tachs but that sounds about right...stock pipes prolly sign off around 9k but I'd think you'd prolly be closer to 10 before the power falls off (just a guesstimate but I'm curious, course if it was mine and I just got it I'd wanna make sure the jetting is dialed in first, then spin it up and see whilst holdin' on tightly heh).

Hard to tell in the pic...looks like the rear hub might be different, not sure if DuraBlue uses spacers like Lonestar but pottsy you might ask 'em if the width is adjustable or if it's all the way out already. Looks good!! About all I can really see is that the left rear tire is low, you could use a seat cover soon (mine do that too)...and I hope your wife is supportive LOL!! :wink:

Closer to the right length but the cans hit...link here.

I'd probably try it with the preload cranked up and see how it does first, but if ya got the bucks it would be worth a rebuild/revalve, especially if it's an older unit (just had my '96 rear rebuilt this year and it was purty beat).

I'm not sure if you can get the fronts apart...I'm sure ya can one way or another heh, I haven't looked that close to see if it's a pin or what. The rear you should be able to remove the lower spring retainer; use a spring compressor and slide the lower spring stop deal off (or back off the preload all the way and use some tiedown straps or something to compress the spring enough to remove the retainer).

I think Mullet Man said it dropped 1" or 1.5" with YFZ450 shocks; link here. You can gain it back with YFZ450 spindles and longer shocks; link here and here.

To get the balljoint/tie rod end loose, soak the shit out of it with some penetrating oil (WD40, etc.), like overnight. Then leave the nut on the end of the threads but DO NOT give in to the temptation to hammer on the nut; put a little tension on the rod or a-arm in the direction it's gonna come off (like for the tie rod push down on it) while you smack the spindle with a hammer perpendicular to the tie rod mounting location. So push down on the rod and tap the spindle from the front, the side, and the rear in a horizontal plane. Unless it's reaaaaally rusted (hence the lizard piss the night before) it'll usually pop right off after a few good hits or ten. When you go back together with it make sure to put some never-sieze on the tapered part of the balljoint or tie rod end where it goes into the spindle, doesn't hurt to put some on the threads either. Oh the reason you leave the nut threaded on while you're pushing and hammerin' is so that when it lets loose you don't go flying and bustin' knuckles, and the reason you don't hammer on the nut is because it'll crush the threads where the cotter pin goes through. BTW stock a-arms aren't camber adjustable, but don't have hardly any camber built into them so you've likely got aftermarket a-arms (this is a good thing). In general 4 degrees of negative camber or so is beneficial to handling...just curious why you want to change it, other than just to try it and see what happens or if it's really drastically cambered in...

I ran a Dyna for like a '97-up Banshee on my '96; like you said the connectors are different and I had one wire left over (think mine was purple, on the CDI side not the harness side). It worked perfectly I just matched up the wires and taped that one off, I think Brad from Dynatek posted here a few times that it had something to do with the e-brake switch of the TORS. Anyway all you need to do is take the pins out of the connectors on your old CDI (and the new one) and put your old connectors (the plastic part) on the new CDI so it'll plug into your harness; write down what goes where and make double sure the colors match, this is all you need for it to run and they should be the same color on both sides of the connector (i.e. harness side and CDI side): Red from stator to CDI Green from stator to CDI Red/White from stator to CDI Green/White from stator to CDI Black from stator/ground to CDI Orange from CDI to coil Brown/Red from CDI to ignition key switch (if ya got one, if not it needs to be grounded to run) Black/White from CDI to handlebar kill switch (opposite of key-this one grounded is "off") Good luck...

Oh damn...

Damn, nice find JayB1rd!!! That is SICK, he says 18" of wheel travel in front and 22" out back, with shocks on the way for 22" in front as well. It's close to Sundahl's design but it looks like the engine cradle part of the frame is factory, like the upper shock mount location and bracing, whoever grafted it in did a damn good job. The arms and spindles are different too, not to mention the 3-spoke hubs...that's one massive swingarm. Crazy, gotta look at it some more heh.

Thanks I forgot to write that down somewhere heh, I've already had to wade through that thread a couple times looking for tidbits like that. I think I'll see if I can figure out how that compares to 250R, 450R and YFZ450, and maybe Ballance's narrow front...

Pro-trax would be an improvement but not a vast improvement over any other set of aftermarket Banshee a-arms (I like the t-pin spindles and they will likely allow more wheel travel but they may or may not be any stronger and they'll damn sure cost more if ya break one), because like letsgetthisdone said you're still stuck with the stock frame mounting locations and the stock inner tie rod location...which limits you on travel and could be improved in terms of bump steer, scrub, and...fuck I don't know I've been reading so much about suspension geometry my frickin' brain hurts (think I had nightmares last night about roll center, instant center, and tire slip). I heard Laeger quit makin' them too, and Lonestar is kinda iffy. I definitely agree that the rear needs to be done as well as the front. Any idea what sets the CR500 linkage apart from the 450R and YFZ450? They all look suspiciously similar to me. And what makes 10 degrees is the magic number for rake? Just curious and tryin' to learn...

If money was no object, I'd like to try a Sundahl frame with a powervalved Cheetah, but that's just me... A close second would be an outlaw frame using 250R geometry, like broke's Laeger or loboboy's Lonestar I'm workin' on a frame design now, possibly YFZ450 geometry, but no tellin' how long that'll take or how it'll pan out...

Traci is amazing Very cool.

Ok I've heard some wierd starting rituals but thatsa new one. It should fire up with the ignition "on" in a few kicks (like one to ten). Have you tried the choke? Throttle on & off? They are all a little different in what they like (and how they're jetted) as far as cranking up. It wouldn't hurt to check the compression, and cleanin' carbs is never a bad idea, especially the tiny pilot jet passage that'll directly affect idle...

Same here, I use those bolts on the jugs to drain the coolant but that's it; fill her up at the radiator and start it with the cap off to watch for circulation. You don't necessarily need to pull the whole clutch cover, just the outer water pump cover and the inner one, kick it over slowly and make sure the water pump impeller is rotating, the little pin might have come out of the shaft that holds the gear or the gear itself may be thrashed, but I would also lean towards a water pump problem and not trapped air in the system...

Tires angled in at the top relative to the bottom is camber (negative camber in this case), and yes it's ok to set it up this way; -4 degrees is a typical setting and what it does is improve handling in turns by keeping a larger contact patch in contact with the ground on the outside tire of the turn when that side gets loaded. My understanding anyway, in my experience negative camber improves handling by slightly reducing steering effort from center (at zero camber mine wanted to go straight all the time, the bars return to center quicker and took more input at speed to turn). Stock a-arm and j-arm (which is what you're lookin' at) Banshees don't have adjustable camber, so either someone taco'd the upper a-arms or they put aftermarket J or D arms on it, maybe even converted it to A arms. If they are even it's probably aftermarket, and if you don't like it you can adjust it back to zero or a couple degrees instead of a buncha degrees (either at the upper balljoint or at the inboard upper control arm mount via heims). On the shocks, if it's all decked out for MX he's prolly got Zero Preload (ZPS) or self-sagging shocks...or just really short shocks heh. ZPS also improves handling, mostly on an MX track, by lowering the center of gravity without sacrificing too much shock travel; it sits low so it won't 2-wheel in the turns but when you hit a big jump the shocks can extend farther to take the big hits. Take a look at the shock brand and let us know; Custom Axis, Elka, and top of the line Works shocks have ZPS options. And yes, aftermarket a-arms and shocks are available, but before '91 Banshees had J arms so you're a little more limited in what you can put on there, unless you or someone else already did a conversion to A's. $500 I'd jump on it, unless it absolutely won't run or looks completely beaten, as a matter of fact if you pass gimme the number and I'll call If you do snag it there's lotsa help here if you need it. Good luck.

Word.

Purty sure mine are CR-low, might be CR-high but I don't think so... stock is on the left:

Not sure what year(s) but I believe these are the Yamaha part numbers: Springs: 90501-24408 (sold individually) Steels: YP-15-12 (set of six) Friction plates: 4H7-16321-02 (set of seven) I haven't tried 'em myself but will when I smoke a clutch...

LOL yeah that's Sandy in Engineering, don't think I managed to get off the phone under an hour both times I talked to him haha! Cool good luck. Anytime ya need somethin' lemme know.