BenBB

Right on mang, good luck!!! That's just gotta be a serious torture test for the quad, hope you're doing more kicking back in the pits than thrashing on something broken :cool:

If the taillight still works that's a good thing, it means it's probably not the stator or about half the wiring heh. Start with the simple things, bulbs are cheap so check those and replace if they are blown (get an extra pair); they may just be old although both at once is kinda uncommon. If you put a new pair in and rev it up and they blow again you know that the voltage regulator is either shot, missing, or not connected, it's the small silver box under the seat. If they don't blow when you rev it up, that may be the only problem, run it that way and see if they last. If they don't come on at all with new bulbs, check the contacts where the bulb mounts, then start tracing wires to make sure the connectors are tight and the wires are intact (not cut, burnt, etc.). Check the switch too, take it apart and see if dirt or grunge or something is in there keeping the contacts from contacting. It's a pretty simple system so you only have to follow a few wires (black ground, yellow, green and blue for the positive side from the stator to the volt reg and then to the switch, switch to lights). If the taillight is out also, check the wiring to the stator and then test the stator with an ohmmeter, it may be shot. Good luck.

Cool I'd like to see pics. That silver finned thing is the voltage regulator, you need that. You might run a search for an RZ forum to see if another model reg will work like RZBansheeMan mentioned, there's a couple dedicated forums out there. And yes the RZ stator is gonna have more wires, specifically three whites.

Did you replace the electricals or did you buy it that way? If you did it, are you sure the gap is set right on the pickup coil and that all connectors are tight? Harness is a maybe, you want to look for cuts, burns, etc. and also check for continuity from one end of the wire to the other (like orange between the CDI and coil connector, red, green, red/white, green/white from CDI to stator connector, etc.). Your CDI might be toast but typically they are go or no go; it won't try to run at all. I'd start with the connectors and then test for resistance on the stator, then have a shop bench test the coil just in case. From there you might check the FAQ below for everything else. Good luck.

I looked for pics of mine but couldn't find 'em; I ran PT revs and now have my old Fattys back on, the right side fits fine but the left I cut and rotated to clear the PV housing. Also on mounting the electrics, I put the voltage regulator and CDI in the stock locations, if I remember right I just had to hog out the mounting holes a little bit for the reg. I put the PV control box under the seat where the tool kit used to live, along with a couple in-line fuses (I built the harness from scratch as well). Good luck.

Yes they will fit but the one I had was plastic just like the Banshee's...

It's been a long while since I've talked to him, hope he's doin' allright.

The CDI has nothing to do with the lighting system, it's ignition only; you need to check two wires coming from the stator and see if they got disconnected somewhere: Black-ground (used by both ign and lights-wouldn't run without it) Yellow-lighting power circuit (changes to blue inside the harness and goes to both volt reg and lights and switch) The lights WILL work without the voltage regulator hooked up...for a little while until you rev it up hehe, then all the lights will blow. If it was me I'd trace all the wires and make sure all the connectors are tight, double check the bulbs, then maybe test the stator resistance for the lighting coil...

Shocks will help some but I'd hold out for shocks & +2 a-arms at the same time...ideally with a +2 axle as well but you can get by with reversing the rear rims. From cheapest (and less effective) to most expensive (and biggest difference you can feel): 1. Stock a-arms, YFZ450 shocks, reverse rear rims 2. Modded YFZ450 a-arms, YFZ450 shocks, rev. rears 3. YFZ450 arms, custom shocks, rev. rears or +2 axle 4. "Rec" a-arms (under $500-600 or so), low-end shocks (Works AT Steelers, Elka Rec, etc.), +2 axle 5. "Pro" arms (LSR, Roll Design, etc.), high-end shocks (Works Black Widows, TCS, Axis, etc.), +2 axle Scope out ebay, look on the HQ for sale stuff...

Thanks Jeff I found a gear but I'll be calling for that idler gear bushing, washer and snap ring from ya...prolly the Magnum basket as well just gotta see what I can scrape up heh :wink:

FAST has the kicker idler gear too, gotta get one of those babies while I'm at it :biggrin:

Cool thanks alot fellas that helps tremendously, the Magnum sounds like a damn good deal...

Looking for some input on clutch baskets if anybody's got some opinions. Never broke a clutch basket or excessively wore my stock one on my '96 but I trashed a clutch basket gear (ate the kickstarter idler gear washer) and I'm considering an upgrade as preventative maintenance; primarily a trail/desert/dune motor, ported but not extreme, more interested in reliability than anything... I saw a Barnett on ebay for $220 that's billet with stainless steel inserts, spendy but I doubt it would ever wear out. There's a billet Wiseco on ebay for $168 and "Boss" billet for about $200, FAST has Hinsons for $155. I can get a stocker from Ronnie's new for $143, or take my chances on ebay. Any thoughts on any of 'em, good or bad, would be appreciated; not sure if the Barnett would be worth it or the Hinson or go with the cheapest stocker I can find and hope it's not junk like mine is now :ermm:

They are a bitch, expect lotsa cussing whilst trying to get that goddamn spacer cocked just right to get the first bearing out. If ya got new hubs I'd call a bearing store and find out how much they are, probably well worth not having to fight the old ones while being careful not to fuck them up...but you still need the spacer outta there unless the new hubs came with it. National part numbers for bearings are: Inner 6004 Outer 6202 Seals. (inner x outer x depth) Inner 22mm x 35mm x 7mm Outer 22mm x 35mm x 7mm So to do both front hubs you need to buy two of everything (cut & past I had saved). Remember to get good bearings not Chinese or Hindu (Japanese or German tend to be the best). Good luck.

I'm lookin' for one, just concerned about the wear...is it really that bad?? Kinda hard to tell from the pics. Don't wanna sound like a cheapass but would $50 be enough? If ya just wanted to get rid of it and all heh :wink:

That's cool, thanks for looking man.

My kickstarter idler gear snap ring came off and my clutch gear ate the washer...lookin' for a good used gear or basket with the gear, if anybody's got one layin' around lemme know. Thanks! Here's a pic of what I need to replace, three of the teeth are a little funky... What's left of the washer...

Who's Shaffer?? Damn dude I'd take care of that collectin' dust problem in a heartbeat if I had seven grand layin' around. Good luck bro.

Busy guy heh, I don't know how the hell he finds time (insomnia?! a clone of himself?) between workin' full time and on customers' motors and racing WORCS. IMO he's the best, great dude to deal with and worth waiting for...and I just shipped my RZ jugs to him yesterday for a fresh bore. Thanks Dan!!

Mine too Chris!! :ninja: I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. I might consider a cub or cheetah or something as well if I had the funds but if I had a spare RZ motor I'd be buildin' it right now :cool: I wouldn't go back unless I had a catastrophic failure and couldn't find a replacement; as far as the guys getting rid of them they may have had some kind of misconception about the difference, it's kinda subtle in my case at least; it's not like getting off a Vespa and onto a Hayabusa. To me it's still a screamer just different than most :tongue:

Blastys are lotsa fun and great for beginners; learning the clutch, shifting, etc. is cake with the little 200. I got an '03 for my son when he was 13, the next year he was on a Banshee with zero probs (he had an ALT50 and then a TRX70 before that). My stepdaughter is 13 and does great on it even with very little prior riding experience...you can lug it around all day long and it doesn't complain hehe. And of course it's always fun to have a pit bike to stunt around on myself :biggrin: I think they came with factory hydraulic front disc brakes from either 2002 or 2003 and up, if possible grab one of those (the brakes are insanely good), around here probably in the neighborhood of $2k or so, if it's a good deal get an older one and upgrade the brakes it'll be worth it, either way I'd go with the oil injection blockoff just to make sure you never have any probs there (plus if you've got a Banshee just use the same fuel/oil mix on both). Very simple, light machines and IMO very dependable and as typical of a 2-stroke easy to get power out of...maybe not mass quantities heh but still... A pic I took of CJ on her Blasty :cool:

The hubs are different too, ya need 450 hubs to fit the spindles right...

I agree, post 'em up...it's either the spindle or the frame. The '01 I bought my son must have been in a similar wreck as you took, the left side a-arms were both replaced before I bought it, and there was some frame damage at the lower a-arm mounts but it looks like it was hammered/welded back in place fairly well. Anyway when I went to put 450 arms on that one I found a bent spindle; both the brake caliper mounting bracket and the spindle were tweaked from the impact, so I couldn't sell 'em and they wound up in the trash. Must have hit damn hard, maybe a tree I dunno...

Cool, well not so much for Chris & Traci...ya'll don't have any mud there or what?! :biggrin: Wow Farr nabbed 24th overall on the new KTM, that's damn impressive considering he's not a GNCC regular (and it's nothing like the TT's he owns at). Must search for more pics of the course and the four-bys...

Not bad, considering the Elka piggybacks are going for $715 on ebay...I'd call and ask exactly what kinda shock you're getting (adjustments, dual or triple rate springs, etc.), and if it was me I'd search the HQ for Fullflight arms for some feedback (if somebody's got 'em they might post); mild steel and lotsa heims but from the pictures they look decent.