BenBB

That's some damn good finds heatwave!! I'm gonna look at those closer when I have a little more time, very interesting... Jobey I'm lovin' my RZ, your motor sounds even better it's gonna rip. I ran an Interstate 12N5-3B battery for a while, it fit perfect in the back of the airbox behind my single K&N, but it was heavy and I never used my lights so I went with a battery eliminator like those that frequent ebay. Works great no probs, I'm not real worried about the PV cleaning cycle mine don't appear to accumulate much if any deposits at all (they are polished as is the exhaust port so mebbe that helps, perhaps the synthetic premix I run does as well I dunno). Good luck, I think you're gonna like it :wink:

Blasphemy!! It ain't that hard, quick rundown: soak the rotor bolts and sprocket bolts overnight with lizard piss (penetrating oil), find the right size allen wrench for the rotor bolts (I like the 3/8" socket drives, dunno the size offhand but it's like 6mm or something) and break them loose, use a punch/screwdriver to bend the lock tabs off the sprocket nuts, loosen the nuts, prop up the rearend and pull the wheels (pretty sure both the rotor and sprocket will clear the hubs so no need pulling them), loosen and back off the chain adjuster 10mm nuts and 12mm bolts, remove sprocket bolts and replace sprocket, tighten bolts and bend the tabs back on the nuts, remove brake caliper 12mm bolts, replace rotor (at LEAST blue loctite on those allen-head bolts, if not red), remove cap on rear brake reservoir and push the caliper piston in, unbend the tabs on the caliper pin bolts and remove them, swap out the pads, replace pin bolts (add disc brake grease if desired), re-bend the lock tabs on the bolts, stick the caliper back in place, top off fluid if necessary, replace brake ressy cap, replace wheels/tires, adjust chain (ugh), don't forget to tighten the chain adjustment bolts/nuts (I use blue loctite), and ride. There is at least one potential snag in the game plan; the stock 104(?) link chain might not wanna reach with the bigger rear sprocket, if it's got some wear you're probably ok but if it's real new you might not be able to get it on there...nothing a little hogging out the adjustment slots on the swinger with a dremel won't fix but ya didn't hear that from me haha! Better than running a half link though...although I've allegedly done that as well...

That would be cool to trip the YPVS box off the Banshee CDI, I'm running all RZ electrics now and if/when the CDI goes out I was planning on going to Zeeltronics...but being able to go back to Banshee stator/flywheel/CDI and all would probably be the better way to go (cheaper, more available, etc.). Are they talking about building or reworking the Banshee CDI to work with the RZ system? As in keeping the RZ stator/flywheel? Or Banshee stator/flywheel/CDI that will trip the PV controller? If so how are they getting power to run the PV motor? I didn't think that it was possible to mix anything between the two (well besides the coil), but it very well could be, that circuit diagram looks completely greek to me heh, there might as well be pixie dust or a genie inside that black box I have no fuckin' idea, as long as it works :happy: I think mine's actually an '85 CDI and '84 stator/flywheel now that I think of it...

Definitely worth getting an adjustable clutch perch/lever and a new cable, it makes a world of difference when you change the leverage at the perch/lever and it seems like no matter how much or little you lube the clutch cable it just gets tough to move over the years. I've been running MSR's Raptors for a while in the shorty version, I can slip it with one finger no prob. There's a few out there, I had a PEP on my 250R way back in the day and I think ASV even makes 'em with different pull settings now, not sure but I saw a couple different ones somewhere that looked trick...

I never ran mine long enough to find out...a temp gauge is cheap insurance heh. Like moneybags and zonker said, running too lean for too long tends to result in a hole in the exhaust side of the piston top/front. Mine did overheat on me from being too rich (which could also be a function of going slow now that I think about it, since it would bog at WOT I couldn't get much air across the radiator so it couldn't cool, I dunno) but I didn't stay on it when it did, made it back to the truck and rejetted as soon as I could...

Priceless How the hell have you been Rod?? Good to hear from ya bro, hope things is goin' allright...

Just take your time, make sure everything is CLEAN, and do everything you wanna do in there while you got it opened up (port match the cases, shift star, RZ forks/drum, whatever), it's no picnic tuggin' that heavy bitch in and out...

Same here, once anyway. The idler gear bushing wears and mine walked around and spit the snap ring and washer off...then the clutch outer gear ate the washer I got a new washer and idler gear bushing from FAST (thanks man), pressed out the old one and pressed in the new one, good to go.

That smoke on one side more than the other, is it white? If it overheated it could have blown a head gasket/o-ring on that side and/or warped the head, and it could potentially only suck water when it's topping out the R's (and a static compression test may or may not indicate any problem). I'd check the coolant level in the radiator at the very least and make sure it's not gettin' burnt, if it's low and the smoke is real white, there's your problem. Only other thing I can think of is the coil, a high-speed miss is a symptom of one starting to go. Of course that's assuming everything else is cool as far as jetting, good fuel, air filter, etc. I know how it sucks to miss a riding trip, but better that than (shudder) get towed back to camp behind a 4-stroke Hope for the head gasket that's an easy job :cool:

Right on glad you found it :beer:

I'm not real sure, but I'd check the ground to chassis at the volt reg and the coil itself first-both should be to bare metal. Also make double sure your black/white from the CDI is taped off, there's current through that baby when she's running. I got zapped the other weekend myself, using that circuit to both a pushbutton kill switch and a Pro Design tether; I had it backwards on the tether and the exposed metal end had some voltage on it even at idle...it'll wake ya up (I just had to reverse the two wires and it's ok now heh).

Yes the calipers are a direct bolt-on: same bolt pattern, bolt size, etc. and twice the calipers, well worth upgrading. Be advised that you need to use the Banshee bolts and not the YFZ450 bolts, since the YFZ spindle is aluminum and thicker at the threads they use longer bolts for the caliper, if you use those on a Banshee spindle the ends of the bolts might bottom out against the rotor. Also while the hubs look identical, they aren't and won't interchange, you hafta use YFZ hubs with YFZ spindles and Banshee hubs with Banshee spindles.

I was gonna say the same thing, I've got pics somewhere, pretty sure it was a Zilla frame. I tend to agree about restoring it and selling instead, it would be worth a whole lot more and parts are gonna be scarce...course if I got my hands on one I'd shove it in a quad frame haha

I was lucky I guess, my motor had been in a three-wheeler :ermm: that apparently wadded, so they cut the pipes off about an inch and a half from the jugs. Not sure if they were stock pipes or what but as it turns out the OD of the stubs was the exact right size for my PTR's and later Fatty's to fit right over and seal. Had that not been the case I had planned on having a local muffler shop just weld me a short stub of I think it was 1.5" OD tubing to a 2-bolt flange that matched my bolt pattern, the dudes I called and talked to said it would be no prob...

I think both times I pulled the bottom end I had the topend off already, and just crammed paper towels around the rods to keep anything from falling in. She's still a heavy bitch though...

There needs to be slack BUT it'll be from your clutch cable; when all assembled and adjusted right, with the clutch released (i.e. let go of the lever), you should be able to move that arm about 1/4" away from the indicator pointer (towards the LH side, or opposite the direction the clutch cable pulls the arm). No play there means that the ball & rod ARE in contact all the time (bad); too much play there means that when you pull the clutch lever the clutch isn't fully, well, clutching (also bad as the plates may drag & wear faster). Still not sure why you can't get any slack though, I know the manual says measure at the tip of the lever but I prefer going by the arm & pointer. I'd make sure the clutch pack looks right and the pressure plate is aligned right...good luck man. No way I didn't know that! I had to get a stator for my RZ from Electix in the UK and although it works ok I think something is up with the low-speed charging circuit as you hafta kick it like a gorilla to get it to fire. I don't need the lighting circuit at all and it would be a WHOLE lot cheaper/easier to find to run Banshee stator/flywheel...if my CDI goes out I'll be all over that zeeltronic, or sooner if I can afford it.

Supposedly they are matched sets top & bottom, can you TIG it? Time for a case saver too, cheap insurance...

Are those fibers thicker or are there more of 'em than stock? If so you may need to just disregard the marker on the top case and adjust the phillips-headed bolt on the pressure plate so it takes up any slack between it and the lever, ball, and arm (which would mean the cable would hafta travel farther, which sounds unlikely I've never heard of having to do that for a different clutch). You don't want it superhuman tight there, just take out the slack so when the arm moves it immediately disengages the clutch (and if nobody's told ya don't pull in the clutch and coast down looooong hills in gear or it'll weld up again). Anyway if you keep tension on the little arm with one hand and run that phillips-headed bolt in and out you can feel it move the rod, assuming you've got the ball and rod in there and the arm itself isn't fucked up, normally you just slowly tighten or loosen that bolt until the arm pointer lines up with the case indicator, tighten the locknut and you're good to go. Is the clutch cable new or the old one? If it's new you could compare it to the old one and make sure it's the right length and travel, mighta got the wrong one (doubt it). Routing may be an issue but if the center of the cable moves freely with both ends disconnected, prolly not. Something else is up, you sure everything is kosher on the basket, plates, and pressure plate?? Good luck.

Official Honda link Ya that's purty hefty heh, I'd like a better look at that final drive tho, interesting setup...not gonna change sprockets in the pits between a preride and a race if its the same day I'll wager. Looks like some kind of eccentric for adjusting the chain hmm. Those are some massive front fenders...I'm thinking the Renegade 800 has a close rival in how much frickin' plastic there is hangin' on it, might be able to eject some mass there. Definitely better suited to Baja than ATVCCS, unless you put a snowplow on it and just mowed trees down lol!

Anybody seen this?? Noticed it in the new ATV Sport, didn't think they'd ever build a big-bore... ATV Source link '08 Hondas The IRS is a surprise, EFI sounds good, I just kinda skimmed it but looks like the Rappy has some comp :happy:

I saw the ad for that beast in the new ATV Sport...crazy. I want one

This was my fave way back in the day but it never got done...

I've never dealt with 'em but I think they had an ad in the last ATV Sport mag...

Damn electronics heh, still sounds like a good time and a good finish, congratulations!! Even in a 6hr race the start has gotta make a difference, you guys woulda had it in the bag if not for that...good thing he could at least ride back to the pits tho :ninja:

Right on :beer: