BenBB

Ahh a Banshee motor in an RZ, just the opposite of what I did heh :happy: As mentioned, no the Banshee case does not have a hole in the upper case half or the drive gear for the tach; the casting is there but the bolt hole isn't drilled/tapped and the hole where the cable gear goes in is blocked off. Oil pump drive is blocked off with a nipple for a tranny vent, although the bolt holes are there and threaded for the oil pump. Gear ratios are different, and the RZ has a better drum & fork arrangement; the drum paths are radiused and the fork pins can rotate, on the Banshee the pins are part of the fork casting. Not a huge difference but a little smoother shifting on the RZ. Banshees don't have the pin & threaded terminal for the neutral indicator light in that little plastic housing on the end of the shift drum. As you mentioned the head water outlet points forward and not upwards, there's also not a thermostat or housing on a Banshee. As someone else said the exhaust outlets are spigots using two springs and an o-ring coupler on Banshees, RZs use a two-bolt flange and gasket. One big thing is that the entire electrical system is different; nothing will interchange except the coil. Stator, flywheel, CDI and volt reg/rectifier/battery. So for the Banshee motor you'll need it with a stock stator, flywheel, CDI and voltage regulator at the very least, and that will provide enough power to run a headlight and taillight and not much else (stock is two 35W headlights and one taillight and they are dim at idle). Aftermarket stators are available though for better lighting, and if you dig far enough you might come across a lossless system that uses a battery. I think that's about it, aside from the cosmetically different stator and water pump covers, well and of course the cylinders, powervalves, YPVS controller, and head: the pistons, rods, crank, clutch, kicker, intakes, carbs, etc. are all either identical or directly interchange, which can be said of the tranny and cases as well but the end result is subtle differences.

Bearings are 6007RS, one seal is 62x42x8 the other is 62x43x8 (those are metric dimensions as well as National part numbers on the seals; ODxIDxCC). Never had any problems but I always get good quality Japanese or German (SKF, Fafnir, etc.) bearings, stay away from the Chinese or Thai shit.

True but you'll prolly get more for 'em individually (keep the shocks paired of course)...

Yes I measured 16-5/8" eye to eye IF you've got YFZ450 spindles & hubs; with Banshee spindles & hubs the arms can't extend as far (by a few inches at the wheel) and you'll have a bitch of a time getting the shocks mounted, not to mention they prolly ain't gonna work right. You'll want to take a different measurement for dimension "D" and "E" on the sheet above if you're sticking with Banshee spindles & hubs (I think I had 16-3/8" eye to eye with Banshee spindles & hubs), and either way ya might call Elka and see if they want any other weights/dimensions and double check my numbers. But yes that 11-1/4" is what I get eye to eye compressed like they show in the last pic with a 2x4 under the frame and the valve cores removed from the tires...

I agree with swrbansheeboy, more details, like crank bearings put in right?

Way rich, race gas or not, it'll get hot. 180 is perfect though, 200 is ok and to be expected in slow speeds without having any kind of fan to move air over the radiator. I wouldn't worry about the overflow bottle, it's just a catch can and routinely drains itself due to its location; as long as the radiator is still full you're good to go. If jetting a little leaner doesn't change anything you might consider Water Wetter or other such product, it works.

Yes, I don't know for sure what YFZ450 shocks are eye to eye, Works' price list shows 15-3/4" overall, but mine are 16-5/8" eye to eye...

Thanks, and yes I think she sits level at least, although I like the front a little higher for desert whoops but I need to mess with the sag. This one didn't come out very well but at least you can see the profile: Right on!! Hope you get it together and get a chance to ride this weekend too, let us know how yours does. Yes Works has all the info, or you could have 'em made by whoever else you wanted; I'm sure Elka, Axis, etc. would have no prob building them, just make sure they get all the measurements they need to set it up right. I've had good luck with Works and recommend them, especially if you're on limited fundage like myself heh, but that doesn't mean you couldn't go with someone else (in other words I ain't a salesman). I do have a sponsorship deal with them though, and have run their stuff to hell and back desert racing here in NM so I can say they make a good product, at a good price, and have great service. That said, you can call Works at 818-701-1010 and ask for either Darrel (sales) or Sandy (engineering, and it's a guy not a girl heh) or Donna (order status) or Ray (sponsorships). I emailed the sheet below to Darrel but can't find his addy, but they should have everything on file under my name, Ben Boal. Like I said above mine had a list price of $659 a pair, but you could get them for less than that without rezzys and threaded preload (I wouldn't get anything less than triple rates), or you could spend more for Pro Series piggybacks, Pro G series with dual lines or Black Widows. MAKE SURE you tell them to send 30mm wide bushings for the lower mounts; Banshees use 32mm wide upper & lower mounts but the YFZ450 a-arm mounts are 30mm. Here's the custom shock sheet I used, and the instructions on how to get the measurements in case you want to double check it: Usually a 2-week lead time on them, and if there's any problems with them they'll make it right.

That's crazy, might be due to heat causing fuel to evaporate and then condensate when the fumes get to the cooler vent line, but still it shouldn't be much if any. Mine spits a little here and there but that's flogging the piss out of it, and granted the radiator is right in front of the tank. Maybe try one of those little plastic in-line check valves some dirt bikes have on 'em...

Because I got roughly 10" of wheel travel with YFZ spindles vs. about 7" of wheel travel with Banshee spindles...and unfortunately the hubs don't interchange so I had to got with YFZ hubs too. Earlier thread here.

Allright it's taken way too long heh, but I finally got everything in yesterday and got to take them out last night...for like 10 minutes before it got completely dark. This weekend I'll take them back out and get a better ride report after I get a chance to dial everything in just right; last night I only had time to roughly set the preload on both sets of new fronts and my rear (Works did a heart transplant on it). Here's the pix: Brandon's '01 before (with front Razrs, stock shocks, a-arms, spindles, hubs, calipers, master cyl): Brandon's '01 after (front HD's, YFZ450 a-arms, spindles, hubs, calipers, master cyl, Works shocks): My '96 and Brandon's '01 after: Quick ride impressions: Bear in mind it was a short one, and we haven't ridden since the last race on February 18th heh. Way outta shape. Anyway we both thought that the steering effort was a little higher; shee REALLY wants to go straight. I don't remember where our steering stabilizers were set last so I need to back those off, and I still need to get the toe-in set right (I just had 'em "close"), but first ride it took some effort to turn. Brandon is going from completely stock and I'm going from Ricky Stator +2 a-arms. It feels to me exactly like the time I tried setting my camber to zero (from about 4 degrees or so), which would make sense since these arms have a set camber, but just looking at the pics I'd guess they had at least 2 degrees. Shock action was smooth with no surprises, felt a whole lot like the Works A-T Steelers I had before, Brandon said they were a whole lot better than the stockers and soaked up several unexpected hits like nothin'. Shock specs: I had Works build these using their measurement worksheet for custom applications, and using YFZ450 a-arms AND spindles I got 16-5/8" eye to eye extended, 11-1/4" eye to eye compressed, and 5-3/8" of shock travel (which translates to roughly 10" of wheel travel). I told 'em I had about a grand to spend for two sets, at the very least I wanted what I already had (steel bodies, triple rate springs, remote rezzys). For $948 shipped I got two pairs of steel body, triple rate springs, remote rezzys, 5/8" shafts and threaded preload. Gotta live without adjustable compression & rebound for now. List price was $659 each but I got a 30% sponsorship discount. Good lookin' shocks though, and that shaft is huge: Other shit: I actually almost broke even on this project, although I did sell a few more parts than just what got replaced (like my TT tires & rims, swaybar, a set of PTR pipes, and some Blaster parts on ebay that I was amazed I got what I did for). On the '01 I sold Brandon's stock a-arms, DG a-arm guards, shocks, hubs/rotors, front brake master cylinder, and right-hand spindle & caliper (the left one was bent, never noticed until I pulled it) for about $300 on here and ebay. From yfzcentral.com I bought a set of YFZ450 a-arms for $120, spindles for $40, hubs for $70, and a pair of front 2-piston calipers and a master cylinder for $50; also I got a set of billet tie rods from Noss for $46, and the Works shocks set me back $474, so a total out of $800. The difference was $500 on his, for +2 a-arms, new triple rate shocks with rezzys, 2-piston calipers, newer front master cylinder (possibly better I dunno), and hopefully tougher spindles, that ain't bad considering I spent $345 for shocks and $485 for +2 a-arms on mine a few years ago (think I sold the stock stuff for about $200 so the difference was about $630). It looks good though, and so far does just what it should: On my '96 I sold my Ricky Stator a-arms, Works A-T Steelers, stock spindles, hubs/rotors, calipers and master cylinder for about $600 on here and on ebay. I snagged a set of YFZ450 a-arms, spindles, and hubs/rotors off yfzcentral for $150 and a complete YFZ450 front brake setup (two calipers, master cylinder, and stainless steel lines) off ebay for $106. I already had Tusk Honda style tie rods & ends for +2 a-arms (like RMA sells) so I didn't need the billet rods. Add the $474 for shocks and total out was $730; difference of $130. Heck yes Kip! Especially considering I broke both stock Banshee spindles last year, I hope like hell the aluminum YFZ spindles are tougher, they look it. Anyway like I said I sold a bunch of stuff I had in the garage for around $400, and made up the remaining couple hundred from the tax return heh. Anyway this weekend I'll take 'em back out and monkey around with the settings some more and post it up...

Are there any pads left at all? Sounds like the caliper isn't "floating", I'd pull it apart and grease it with some disc brake grease, specifically the two long pins that go through the pads and also the whateverthefuckitscalled chingus that the caliper floats to the backing plate (like a pin through a rubber insulator, haven't done a rear lately but on the fronts there's an allen bolt head underneath a black rubber cap plug). Also make sure it's not the pedal that's sticking; disconnect the master cylinder and make sure it moves freely, wouldn't hurt to grease it and use a washer between it and the frame if there isn't one...

There's a rubber casting plug for the water jacket at the base of each cylinder, long black thing on the exhaust side, were those in place when you bolted up the cylinders? Sounds like it's leaking on the intake side though, how 'bout the hose & clamps on the line from the water pump to the head, checked those?

Damn that's a nice setup, is it a huge improvement???

Ouch...damn that sucks melon. I haven't seen them up close lately, but if the rezzys could be turned like differentstrokes sez it would be worth tryin' (hard to tell from the pic it almost looks like the top mount and rezzy location is one cast unit). I just got my Works shocks built for YFZ arms & spindles, had to wait for the right lower bushings (YFZ mounts on the a-arms are 30mm wide, Banshee upper & lower are both 32mm wide) but hopefully will have some pics and impressions up soon...

Ya flex bars are kinda spendy. It's been since February 18th for me, WAY too fucking long, I know I'm gonna be sore as hell after next weekend haha!! :sweat:

That's a helluva deal I'd be all over it. E2S would be worth checking out aside from the aforementioned sites.

Word!

ROFL!! That's UPS for ya man, they ain't lyin' when they say the packaging has to survive a 2-foot drop to solid concrete...

I like Holeshots but opinions vary and there's other good tires out there, just depends on what you're doing. Holeshot MX tires wear out fast but hook up pretty well, they are light but that also means they aren't very puncture resistant. I ran Holeshot XCR/XCT in the desert and they were ok, got me the ground clearance I wanted but they are heavy (and look humungous), pretty decent at puncture resistance too. I'm running Holeshot HD's front (21") and back (20") right now and love 'em, I think they work great all-around. Anyway yes the rear rim is 9" diameter, 10" (I think) wide. You can run 8" diameter or 10" diameter, it just changes how much sidewall you'll have on a given tire (which are typically 18", 20" or 22" diameter on the rear). Some tires are only available for certain rim sizes; like I don't think you can get 22" Holeshot XCR's for 8" rims, not that you'd want to because that would be a massive sidewall and it would roll like crazy on turns. On the flipside a taller sidewall will mean hitting rocks or whatever is less prone to trash your rim. LT450R's come with 18" rear tires, which you can get to fit the stock 9" rims (depending on the brand and type of tire you get). I'm not sure but I bet the LTR uses 9" rims as well. I think they are about the best rim size for all-around use, trail riding, etc. Personally I like 18" tires more than 20" but in gnarly trails you'll be dragging the swingarm skidplate in deep ruts or hammering it on obstructions left & right. You'll also lose top speed with smaller rear tires unless you change the gearing (go up a tooth on the front and/or down some on the rear), BUT you'll gain accelleration; great for MX stuff and places where ground clearance isn't an issue. 20" is a good compromise, your best bet for all-around riding and doesn't change your gearing; 22" has lotsa ground clearance but you lose acceleration/gain top speed with the same gearing, and they are usually heavy as fuck. Rim size will correlate to the tires you decide on; 8" or 9" for 18" tires, 8",9" or 10" for 20's, 9" or 10" for 22's. 9" rims will work for any of 'em (usually), 8" are ok for 18" tires but only necessary if you ride in alot of rocks and need/want the bigger sidewall; 10" are of for 20" or 22" tires but you'll have a lower tire profile... Check out http://www.rockymountainatv.com and look at the package deals or tires to fit your stock rims.

Yes bolt it in there, just like the billet ones with two bolts at the top (I used 1/4" x 1"). The stock cage works surprisingly well, I was going to get a billet one like I have on mine for my son's but once you bolt it up it works great, and ya can't beat the price heh.

Dayum somebody's got a couple of REAL nice rides

Awesome. What's XC2 class? Yokley DNF's, that sucks I wonder what busted. The Spartan is gonna be a damn good race as close as it is, hell all the rest of them are gonna be good between Chris and Bill, they both want it bad...

Holy fucking shit!! Dude that's insane, you gotta post pictures. I wouldn't feel bad about it happening though, it coulda happened to anyone...gas+spark=boom I'll definitely keep any eye on the exhausts for unburnt fuel from now on :happy:

Go Chris!! :thumbsup: