BenBB

Muahaha nice!! :beer: Welcome aboard heh :wink:

I'm likin' the orange & black too :cool: Mostly on the Canadian Banshee heh, but even the 'lil 250 looks like a decent replacement for the Blaster...five different Rappys, dayum. Doesn't look like they changed anything on the 450 :shrug: aside from BNG, I guess the 700 got the 450's shocks...

MX & CC can be done on a Banshee...just not what they are best at; I don't think anyone would disagree that if you're just out to have a good time go for it, but if you're serious about racing you're better off on one of the 450s. Well unless you're somewhat crazy. Wait a sec, I race one :happy: '02 is good, LRD pipes are ok, 28's are ok, big radiator is ok but not entirely necessary, QC clutch is cool...not sure if "tuned" means ported or what, as long as it's not drag ported for pure topend it's prolly ok. +2 is what you want for MX, opinions vary on Durablue so if ya bend it I'd go with something else. Ohlins are good, bear in mind unless you're the exact same weight as the previous owner that the shocks might need to be revalved. Holy god a 4-piston rear caliper?? I wanna see a pic of that thing, that's crazy (a little overkill but would be sick on supermoto). Steering stabilizer is a good thing, some you can rebuild some you can't. Nerfs are essential for MX, as is a tether kill switch. Beadlocks are very good, spendy too. Not sure what Chapman a-arms look like, those from UK? Sounds like a decent setup that would work well anywhere, the good thing about LRD's is you can adjust them (the bad thing is that it's still gonna hit hard and prolly have lotsa wheelspin). You could always change things to better suit your tracks, if there's lotsa straightaways you'll have a good time blowing the doors off the thumpers, but in the tight technical stuff it may be a handful. But basically with +2 all the way around, good front shocks, pipes & reeds (and aftermarket air filter and shaved head, it may or may not have that) and decent tires it'll be lotsa fun...

I drilled & tapped my carrier like Snop did, centered pointing straight rearwards. I also tapped & drilled at the top center for a small bolt for a vent; pull the bolt, pump grease in, replace bolt. I used the little short bolts like ATV/MC batteries use, has a phillips in the center and hex on the outer. Anyway like Firehead said the stock bearings are sealed, you need to pry the inner shields off both bearings to get grease to 'em. But you'll want to take it all apart anyway to do the drilling & tapping so ya don't get shavings & shit in there...

They are kinda hard to get ahold of, call 818-701-1010 and ask for Oscar in service, he'll hook you up. They must be shorthanded or really covered up, I never got 'em to return a voice mail so if you get that don't bother just keep calling back until you get ahold of him or someone else in service...

Cool hopefully you'll get to take it out this weekend. I only got that one reply on the caster angle, and haven't had a chance yet to see where mine's at. You'd get more downward travel in the arms before the balljoints bind, but unless you got longer shocks you couldn't take advantage of it. But they are aluminum so potentially lighter & stronger (sucks that the hubs don't interchange though). The angle of the balljoint mounts; look at a stock Banshee spindle and the upper mount is angled downwards, the upper a-arm balljoint hits the limit of it's travel and the spindle can't travel any farther. The YFZ450 spindle upper balljoint mount is flat; the spindle can travel farther downwards before the balljoint binds (and conversely it can't travel as far upwards before it binds). Exactly.

Looks great Peter, you get a chance to try it out yet???

What he said. Also might wanna double check the carb sync @ idle (TORS knobs or idle screws w/o TORS) to make sure both slides stop in the same spot.

Thanks!! :beer:

Hope so man, good luck.

That's cool. I thought it was a purty decent impromtu interview, by no means Superbowl commercial material or anything, but it's not like he was diggin' in his ear with car keys. 'Course I've been called worse than redneck and can laugh at myself too :tongue: That's a fast dude though I'm sure I couldn't hang with him in them thar trees...

Ok sand got in through the K&N and hosed the bearings, first failure explained. Now for the second one; crank builder is reputable so hopefully you can rule that out. Can you pinpoint the noise with the screwdriver trick? It's not the kickstarter itself is it (I know stupid question, but it is a possibility)? You did clean the wrist pin bearings after the sand happened right? Vibration still points to crank or pistons, but rattle could be anything from a bearing to clutch chatter...

Always. Last time I had my Axcalibur out there was also play in the LH bearing race, machine shop wouldn't touch it (build up with a weld and machine down to fit). If welding is bad drilling is prolly worse. I'm doin' loctite for now, a new axle later, and checkin' it after every ride in between. Fuck that, pixie dust is the shit. Plus you don't hafta fluff your aura first :laugh:

Something's funky with your assembly dude, both the flywheel and crank nut spun? Don't get me wrong I'm not saying you're a moron, shit happens, but "bad" cases just doesn't happen magically. If I understand right you got a new 4mil crank and put it together, it made noise breaking in and when you ran it, it spit off the flywheel and crank nuts; you opened it up and found sand in the cases (how did it get in? air filter? intakes? carbs? case sealant?), rebuilt the crank and had it trued & welded, put it back together and now it rattles, right?? 1. What's different now compared to before (the last time it ran and didn't rattle)? Crank and ??? 2. What all did you take out and/or inspect when the cases were split? Tranny? Kicker gear? 3. What did you use, and how confident are you in the application, to seal the cases? 4. Did you use a torque wrench on the jugs, the head, the cases, etc.? On EVERY bolt & nut? 5. Any wierd wear on the cylinders when you took it off the second time? 6. You sure you got the crank bearing pins set right in the cases? 7. You gonna invest in a flywheel holder to torque that nut this time? 8. How confident are you in the guys that trued the crank? If it was mine I'd try to find out first where that sand came from, then try to pinpoint the noise you're hearing; is it a bearing or bushing or demonic gremlin or gear??? If you're running it and can hear it at idle, put your ear to the handle of a big screwdriver and put the other end on different places on the motor to find out where it's loudest. I seriously doubt your cases are shot, just something outta whack, and if you can swap a crank you can find the problem, even if it didn't go so well the first time...

4 Degrees of caster or camber? I found somewhere that said the frame had 9 degrees of caster but I'm after the angle at the spindle...

Any chance somebody could measure the stock caster angle at the spindle on a stock Banshee? And how about a YFZ450?? I'm thinking that my caster is a little too steep with YFZ450 a-arms and spindles, and it looks like I've got some room on the upper a-arms to move forwards, just tryin' to figure out how much before I start cutting... What I've got is working now but the steering effort seems alot higher. From what I've read about caster & camber, too much caster is going to result in exactly what I've got; it REALLY wants to stay straight all the time, although it is really stable at high speeds it takes alot of input to turn, at any speed (less so at lower speeds but still, more than it was before). I'm guessing my camber is about two degrees (negative) and I don't see any easy way to change it, but I do think it would be easy to shift the upper a-arms forward to decrease the caster angle. Any input?

That's my next project, got a similar problem goin' on. Had a stripped footpeg bolt and Helicoiled it, which was a bitch because the rear two bolts don't bottom out on anything so I had to rip out a couple unwound helicoil springs, finally got it done and used a 10mm coarse thread 8.8 bolt but for some reason or another it didn't last (don't exactly remember why). I wound up doing the nut welding thing on that one, the RH rear where it's offset inwards. I used to run nerfs, old steel DG's that bolted to the two footpeg mount bolts, and that apparently offered alot of support/reinforcement for the footpeg, because even with footpeg extensions I never really had any problems breaking bolts. Last year I ditched the nerfs and kept the extensions and that's when the fun started. First race this year I was hammering through some whoops and the RH front bolt broke off clean at the threads, and the rear bent. Here's a link to a thread repair deal that camatv told me he used on footpeg bolts, and we've used them here at work on Cat scrapers numerous times (Cat sells 'em by the box): http://mdmetric.com/pdf/keysert.pdf I may hafta use those, but I'd just as soon drill & tap the four holes to a larger size and use a coarse thread so I can use Stainless or Titanium fastners (I can't find 10mm with 1.25mm thread pitch anywhere in either one, only 1.5mm thread pitch). I'm contemplating drilling & tapping to 12mmx1.5mm but that also means I gotta drill out the four holes in the footpegs, it would be nice if I had access to a good drill press, and also my pegs are powdercoated so it'll likely fuck that up some too. So my best bet may be the keyserts in 10mmx1.5mm and 10mm bolts, just hope that's big enough and there's enough metal there to hog out a big enough hole for the inserts...

That's cool, looks a whole lot lighter too. I wonder what the holdup is on those kinda things, price or weight or that you're stuck with their rims :shrug:

Prolly cost more than tire balls tho :sad: Nu-AIR TYRE

www.toomey.com and click on "Tech Documents" and then "Banshee Idle Kit". That's for the idle screws at least, the rest is a matter of replacing the tops, running the cable, and disconnecting the control box/tops/switches...

Sounds like it's toast, I'd order one and make sure it's adjusted right, the arrows should line up with the clutch released (actually they should line up when you barely pull the clutch lever in, enough to take the slack out of the cable)...

That's a DAMN good deal, especially on the set of a-arms!!! I gotta write that shit down somewhere about the hubs & spindles heh, great info

No not true. Shaving the head DOES increase compression, what you are doing is taking off the gasket surface thereby decreasing the combustion chamber volume. Rechambering may or may not alter compression, although without shaving or decking the gasket surface on a stock head it would almost certainly reduce compression, and in conjunction with shaving the head would either equal or increase compression...to clarify rechambering or reworking the combustion chamber involves changing the squish angle, radius and/or depth, the shape and characteristics of the combustion chamber itself. To get the very most out of a motor you want the squish set up just right, typically by whomever does the porting. It's not a dire necessity but it's one of those little things that adds up. Mods sound good, you should be plenty safe with .025" and 94 octane (double check with your porting guy though because crazy porting can alter the compression ratio, which is what directly affects what octane you'll need NOT the static compression reading you'll get with a gauge). With no porting you're usually safe to go .030" down to 91 octane, but that's just a rule of thumb and there's always circumstances that might cause it to go boom (bad gas, going to super low elevation like the center of the earth, etc.). I think .060" is the most I've heard taken off but there again it needs to be set up right to do so. You should also be fine with 4 degrees of advanced timing, again see what your builder says and see if he knows of any issues just in case. Definitely worth welding the crank while you're in there, also a good time for any other upgrades if you got the green; modded shift star, port match the cases, lightened flywheel, RZ shift drum & forks, new clutch (bet you'll need to run at least 3 aftermarket clutch springs and 3 stock ones, if not all 6 aftermarket), billet basket, lockup (mmm lockup :happy: ), etc. etc. etc. the list never ends. One thing you might seriously consider is reeds and/or some Vforces, ok well two things you might also wanna go with either bigger carbs or bore out the stockers to 27.5mm. Good luck.

Almost forgot, there is no temp sending unit or casting in a Banshee head either...