mavguy

Ring end gap is in excess of 86 thou, spec says anywhere from 12-18, so they are definitely shot. Bore measured up ok, piston looks good as well. Engine did suck in sand while on last outing, GD stock airfilter setup. Could this have led to rapid ring wear? Going to cheap out and scotchbrite the cylinders myself, re-ring and then see how it goes

I measured 45 pounds of compression with my shee, 55 with some oil poured down the bore (had been sitting for awhile). Decided to tear apart top end... Measured up internal clearances, and everything checks out in the higher end of the tolerance scales. The rings are shot with an end gap of more than 85 thou. Should I cheap out, replace rings and throw the thing back together? OR should I rebuild the top end completely? I have access to a shop so tearing down the top end, although a pain, is not a huge deal. Note-I just want the thing running for the summer, I can do a major rebuild next winter/when it blows up again!

I have a 99 shee with DG pipes and a k/n, with the airbox lid still on (sans snorkel of course) The only way i can start it is to pull off the plugs and dry them, and then pour fuel into the motor. After this, it starts and runs fine, UNTIL it cools off again I have played with the air screws (tried 1.5,2 and 2.5 turns out) The choke works, I believe, because when its running, and i pull it out, the motor stumbles and floods What i find confusing is the fact that it is flooding as soon as it sits and gets cold. If the motor had poor compression, would it really suck enough fuel to flood (I don't choke it to start)? I am going to check the float bowl level (remove the gasket when measuring, should be 21 mm) and the compression when cold and when warm I am thinking of trying to lean the starting circuit out somewhat, but this seems very unheard of-it ran fine before i added the k/n and the dnyojet kit. It also runs good once warm, so I don't believe my float bowls or throttle tubes are reversed. Could being grossly out of sync cause these problems?

While on the topic...Are there many ways to make the throttle on a Banshee lighter? I've heard of people switching the thumb mechanism with one off of a 400ex or something with a bigger thumb lever. Is it possible, or a good idea, to trim the carb springs? I find my throttle to be fine, unless i am riding a long time at 3/4ish throttle, like down a road or something. Thats normally when it becomes a bit sore, especially in the cold.

I got a set on mine, they sound normal, maybe a bit loud. Nothing special. The quality is terrible, poor fit around fuel petcock, silencers falll apart, etc

got power to the regulator-bulbs look like thier in great shape-grounds are swell. When i run it and put a test light on the yellow hot to the regulator (?) coming off the stator i got power when the switches are on... so my switches are ok, my bulbs are not broke, looks like (?) my wiring is good (BUT the last owner messed with the main switch...If it runs, and the light changes acording to the switches, this can't be my prob?) I have power from the stator. Maybe the regulator is broke. How can i test it-maybe check for proper resistance, or would a dealer have a component tester? It is a newer quad with very low hours... I am stumped!

That actually makes alot of sense-Before, when i first had the machine, i rode often and used high quality amsoil. Now I don't have as much time, and I usually just get some cheap oil from wherever I can (small town, AMSOIL is only available at a few places, so often I can be screwed when i find time to ride). I didn't notice this trend, or more acurately, i never thought it would make a difference. I can start the machine 1 kick everyday this week... When I am done playing I will either drain the carbs or run it out of fuel (just shut the petcock off and idle it till it dies) thanks a tonne

Grounds-good idea. There is that one on the back of the frame, seemed pretty dinky when i had my plastic off last summer. thanks again

Well I ran it for awile, tightened all the boots, changed back to normal plugs (i was using iriduim ones, which did work very well) bit my tongue and hooked up the choke tube (hehe oops, BUT the problem was there before i took the carbs off) and it seems very happy now I will fuck with it more tommorow

My lights have not worked on my 'shee since i can't remember when-i never used to notice the issue because i only rode during the day in the summer. Now i want to rip in the winter, and it gets dark alot earlier. I have no lights, and I am soon to test the voltage regulator. My questions are 1) How often do Voltage Regulators fail? 2) What Voltage Regulators can interchange-IE warrior/banshee, maybe blasters and wolverines? Bikes? Kodiaks?Rhinos? Sleds? Etc -this will make it much easier to replace! I imagine this part is very basic, and I would bet that yamaha uses the same one on alot of thier machines. Hell, maybe its an off-the shelf part that can be bought at an electrical store?

Hey, i recently did some work (K/N, Dynojet kit) to my unit, and it runs good, except that if i let it sit for about a week, it won't start unless i dribble fuel directly into the cylinders. once i do this, it starts fine, and as long as a keep starting it every few days, it runs like a normal 'shee. I will do a compression test sometime next week, my theory right now is that the top end is worn (swallowed some sand i think, damn stock filter setup) and doesn't have enough vacumm to pull fuel out through the carb if it isn't in all the circuits. This makes some sense, maybe, because when you let a machine sit, some of the fuel evaporates, and if the motor can not suck hard enough to pull it from the float bowls, that may cause my problem. I am am pretty sure my reeds are in decent shape. I don't know, and it's a pain in the ass. Any ideas?

Hey i was just trying to start my shee, and wondering, since i am used to sleds, what would it take, and why wouldn't i, add a primer pump to my unit I like primers because its easy to figure out what is wrong, after all, it makes it easy to start when you have a carb prob. Chokes don't allow you to shoot raw fuel into the motor

I got it running today, it seems to be a bit fat on the good pipe, but i know how shee's always seem to run a bit fatter on the right side. I will keep an eye on the plugs, but it seems to have good power so i don't think i will fork out the bones. Now all i have to do is install a straight a-arm and i can go ripping thanks

I am in the process of getting my 'shee up and running again, and in the process i accidentally dented the main pipe when i was removing it. It got pinched between the tie rod and frame. The dent is on the first cone (they are DG pipes, in below average condition, not crome, just cheap paint), just at the end of the initial U turn where the pipe begins to expand. It is about 1/4 of an inch deep and 1.5" around, right on the seam where the metal is welded together. How much HP will this cost me (i have a jet kit, fresh silencers, KN W adapter, reeds)? Is it worth fixing for 70$ CAN, or should i just say Fack it and save up for some T5's, or something better than these junk DG's? -Mav garon DVC HAF!

I seem to be constantly wearing out the bottom corner of the seat (were the inside of my knees rub). Im ordering a seat cover-but will that really stop the wear? I wish the plastic covered the spot like on a YFZ, that way you could just throw a new sticker on the spot every couple of rides and the problem would go away.