GrMeyer

You are deff running lean and those are way to lean! If ur ported and have 320 main in hand I would start with them. Also do u run an alum grill insert? A lot of those will cut the air flow down through the rad. But u deff need to figure ur jetting out before u melt some things down

Also with low compression it will be hard to start. So if you have one on hand you might want to check them while you have the plugs out.

They remind me of some old school wicked arms

Im sorry to say but I dont run my bikes off of plug chops. I run and jet them off of how they run.. Saves money in the long term but what the HELL. I was taught this way and lead it on. But run the bike what jet you have WOT and then remember how it feels. Drop a main jet and see if if feels better. I jet up tell it Bogs out and drop back on Jet. Then I work to through the needle and on to the pilot. Here is a web page that I go back to and look on for help http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html hope this helps!!!

Im not expert but those are big bore.

yes remember to fasten the filters on with new hose clamps and not the stock clamps. I had a pod come off last year at the dunes and killed my motor... So after P&P and a new crank shes up and running better then ever.

You are going to have to look and see if they are the LT (long travel) arms. If so then the yfz shocks wont work. Well they will but you wont get the full travel of the arms and will in time blow out the shocks. If they are set up for the ST ( standard travel) shocks then you will be able to use them. But your shocks will prob end up being soft. As for the ball joints I cant help you on that one. When I added +2+1 arms I had had to ream my spindles which isnt that big of a deal. You can buy the bit and do it your self. You just need to know the angle of ream so you can get the right bit. I have been running the yfz450 shocks with my +2+1 arms for two years with greatness. I guess they might be valved a little soft on high speed compression but they are great for taking up all the bumps at the dunes. Much much better then the works i have had in the past for the price I got them at.

There are some guys that can hook you up for that. All they will end up doing is revalve your rear and respung it for the weight.

Thats some good pricing right there!!! Im going to have to shoot him and Email so see where he gets his parts!!!

+1.... I talked to and elka engineer about a month ago because my brother ended up adding a elka rear shock and we wanted to know the reason why they are running their remote rez's all the way to the front. He said that rear takes 75% of the work load and keeping the rear shock is critical. So in turn of mounting it all the way up front to get more air over and with that long of a line it adds more oil. Which will take longer for it to heat up. But with triple rate springs on banshee front ends dont work that great. You will get more out of a dual because there isnt enough travel up front for it to really take effect. And if your talking about works; im not a big fan of them... I have had front and rear shocks from them and they all end up suck'n balls... They are a great upgrade over stock. I had the Pro series triples on my raptor and they would fade after about 30-45 mins of hard dunning. Called them up and they wouldn't fix them. Had them rebuild and resprung and the same thing happened. Moved to Elka and have had great luck with them ever sense. I got the basic triple rate springs (the top spring is just a keep spring to keep it from vibrating when the shock is fully extended) and they out performed the works hands down. Moved to the Elka Dune ED and havent looke back sense. I have ran them for three years now and on my first rebuild. Just need to pull them apart and rebuild them now that I have the parts. Anyone will tell you that if you buy the basic shock from elka without the rez that you cant add them later on... BS You can buy the remote rez later and have a shop put them on if your wanting them and you can add compression adj if your wallet is up for it. I have had great luck with the yfz 450 shocks on my +2+1 arms and im going to be adding the racetech with dual rate springs after this dunes season. I also mic'ed out the rez from the works pro shocks and the yfz 450 and they are if I recall around 1 inch longer and something rounder which in turns holds more oil for better cooling.

I believe that the link if the geo is on that it adds wheel travel. So if you where to have a straight swing arm and shock bolt up that you will only get the travel of the shock stroke. I was thinking about this today because I have two rear shocks from a Raptor 700 and one has the works rebuild kit in it which sucks A$$. And another stock rear from a yfz450. I was thinking about having a +4 swinger made for my bike so i could use the yfz rear shock. But then im in the same boat of having a straight bolt on shock swinger. Because I know my brothers Z400 for his GF rides is a straight bolt on shock and doesnt have much wheel travel. Im sure someone else that has/had a straight bolt on shock to swinger set up will throw some .02 in

I know some people cut the springs in the carbs to cut down on the throttle pull. I have yet to do this and was thinking of looking into it on my stock carbs. But really dont mind the throttle pull. But most of the pull on two carbs will get to you later on in the day. Good thing my dunes group stops about every 30-45mins to have a beer!

I have three axles on my quads from lonestar. I have broke on clean in half and a good thing I was only going about 10mph and was jumping the bike earlier that day. I guess they changed there metal and how it was made. But got a new one free and clear. Just had to show my ticket from buying it. I have their 6.5 long travel kit on my rhino and love it. Have had some probs from their axles but they once again have changed how those are made. But all in all sense i live in Az and they are about a 30min drive from my house im good to just show up and say HI and replace my parts if they are in stock. But all in all they are a company that just keeps making changes to make shit stronger.

What probs have you had with the Alba's? I have been running them for 3 years now and not a single prob... If your having probs with them, then you need to contract Alba if your the buyer of them and tell them whats going on.

If your ported and no lid with T5's you should be running in the hood of 320 mains and 27.5 pilots.

Did you set your Idle when the motor was warmed up or when it was cold?

pull the fuel line and see you if you getting fuel from the petcock. If so you will need to go into the carbs. Also try tap'n the sides of the bowls and see if the floats are stuck with the fuel line back on. Then try kick'n it again. If still no start then pull the plugs to see if they are getting wet. If not then your going to have to pull the carbs and clean them.

No prob.. If your not wanting to go out and do a plug chop; which i never do. I jet by feel. But like said by AKheathen I would start with around 290-310 due to weather temps are getting colder. I dont know much about the T3's but I believe you can start out with the stock pilots of 25. Just turn the air screw in which clockwise; which is richer. seat it and turn it about one turn out and start from there. Also, here is a great site on banshee carb tuning. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html It has about everything in there for a write up on how to tune in your bike.

Take a pic of the flange that goes to the motor.

+3 on filing it flat. Also you might want to file it down so the idle screw will be able to go in more. I had that prob my first time and just had to file it down some more. Also make sure you get the black box under the tank or you will have a No Go on starting.

There is a big difference when you just slap the lid on. With out the lid you should be around 290's and with a lid you should be in the 250's depending on the temp and everything else. So you will have to end up re jetting if you throw the lid back on. A lot of people i new when i was in Ky and Tn, they would keep the lid on but put 6 quarter size holes in the lid and just left it from there. That is also an outerwear that is make for the top of the lid. That way it will help keep most of the water out of the box and is a prefilter to the filter. Just another thought. Also who did that rebuild? If you did then your sure that there is no porting done to the jugs. Because porting will make a big difference in your jetting.

I have to feel for the sand. The harder it is the lower I go. The softer it is the harder I go and I dont go over 5psi on all my sand tires for the dunes no matter what make or brand. But if it is a really stiff rubber i lower it down to around 4psi to help it mold better to the sand. But I normally stay in the 4-5 psi range for rec dune riding. Also watch out for different temps on the day and sunlight on the tires.

I guess it can be on a CD... Mine is just a paper manual. But if you have all the Tq specs and what not then I guess your good to go. And for the anodize a arm bearing kits I couldnt find them. And they are just a sleeve with dust caps with new bushings. Unless your talking about new A arms in all

If bolts dont break loose, my next attack it to hit it with some heat if it is are no threads showing.

are military is more involved then you think...Thats all i can say on that part.