GrMeyer

are you running the air box? Are you running the lid? Are you running the snorkel? Is the air box modded in anyway?

Pilots will make a big diff. It comes in from idle to around 1/4 throttle So most of your motor break in will be from down low throttle. I would rather be rich then lean on a new motor. But if your around 7k feet then the 25 pilots will work. But you will prob still end up being on the lean side with open intake and ported jugs.

Twist of the knob? are you talking about preload adj? or compression adj?

As AK said, I would get some 27.5 pilots. If it is that cold in the 30ish/40. You might want to step up to around 330 to be on the safe side. But that depends on your elevation. You should be just fine with the 320s for break in. Just remember to do your heat cycles and retorque everything back down. And then go play! You will also get different engine break ins how 2. So do your reseach on here because its been talked about alot.

If money is tight. Try to find some YFZ 450 shocks. They are compression adj and rebound adj. I have had them on my banshee with +2+1 arm for going on two years now with nothing but good stuff to say. Or you can spend around $450+ on after market shocks and just get preload adj shocks.

Yup here in good old AZ you just have to stay off of the main highways. The only thing you need is a horn, mirror, lights, and a break light. There is a company that makes a kit to add to the quad to make it street able. The only prob I see; if you live in a big town/city. Whats keeping it from getting it thrown into the back of a pickup? I looked into this for my rhino. Oh and tires. They will get eaten up unless you have some HD tires. So all in all. Yeah its cool to think about riding down the street with your quad and all but you also have to look at the expense of it as well. You will have to pay for registration and insurance and prob some more things as well. I know that most states are going to make you start Registering your ATV's to help pay for riding areas/forest. That is what they did to us here in AZ. But its cool because any other start that needs a sticker/registration your good through your state. But then I got to thinking about what about having it licensed in another state. But then I ran into your not a residence. But I own a house there. And so on. But its just a big loop to try to get the quads on the road.

Is it smoking really bad at start ups? And does it smoke still after it has been warmed up? When you let the bike sit for three months, did you put new gas in? When you are adding the premix to the fuel, are you mixing it well enough? Also if it has sat for some time and your wanting to start it up. Oil will settle to the bottom of the case and gas tank. Thats why I say to shake the banshee like a shaking the baby.

I have to agree. Your almost better off trying to find a pair of yfz shocks and having them built for you. Then you get compression and rebound adj. You will pay out of your ass just to get those adjustments on works shocks.

Might want to look into getting new ball joints. Those look like they have been around like the convenience store door knob. (everyone gets a turn). Or clean them up and make sure they dont have any punctures. If not then give them a new bath with grease through the grease zerk. Also, with them being that dirty, you might want to pull the zerk out and clean it. That way when you pump new grease in, your not pumping in some dirt.

well I know I get thrown around if you ride in the sand that the buggies run in. But the steering stabilizer should keep you from getting the quick arm pump from turning. I find it easier to ride in the buggies tracks and keep the front end up as much as I can. Other then that; riding and tryn to find virgin sand. Oh and going on the off weekends. You might want to try to slow down your rebound on the shocks. It should help out on the jolts.

are you going to keep the snorkel on? And will you be modding the lid in anyway. Like 6- 1inch holes. But if your going to be keeping the lid on. I would start with 260 mains. Outerwear makes a lid kit that you cut the hole and replace the big hole with a metal frame to hold the outerwears. So you still get more air with the lid and it will repell around 90% most of the water. Just another thing to look into. Also. If your going to be riding around water. Get the Tors kit. The Tors on the bike will give you a brain aneurysm.

I got steering stabilizers on my bikes and its a new ball game. Going from one with one and one without is HELL. I will always buy one for my bikes. I can ride twice as long and you dont get the arm pump. If you can. I know elka has a serial number on their shocks and they keep log of what the build is for. So you might want to try to contact works on this and see what they are set up for. That way you can work with valving or at least shock rates. Another thing is when was the last time your shocks had the oil changed? MattSCESC on here has helped me out alot and has filled in alot of the unknown factors to those who have never worked on the insides of a shock. As of for the YFZ. I have looked into making mine dual rate and revalving with racetech piston. But money is what everyone has been seen these days.

Thats why I say, find the spring rates you need and do it your self for maybe a littler cheaper. Best of luck.

The T5's require 27.5 pilots. Also, dont run the bike tell you can get some larger mains in there. Unless you feel like doing rebuild on the motor!!!

Alot of people do plug chops. I go by feel of the bike. Go up another jet and see if it falls on its ass at the top end. If it feels like its better then keep going up tell you get the ass part. But those plugs look good to me. For the plug chop; your looking for a 2mm brown ring on the porcelain. Hope this helps.

I have always had +2+1 arms for my quads and it (='s) a much nicer and stronger ride. I would go with the Arms made for the quad

If you have works then I would just say with them... Do you have rez on them? If not, you can look into adding compression adj rez's to stiffen them up depending on place of riding. Or try to find out what wt oil and type of valving is in there and work around that. I wouldnt go to triple on the shock because they dont have enough shock travel to see any us from it. Most of the triple rate springs are just keepers to the two mains springs that work to keep them from rattling when the shock is fully extended. Hope this helps.

Stick with the Stock pilots and start around 310 mains depending on how cold it is. Read up on this as well. It will help giving you a better knowing of whats going on and what to do about it. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

whats in the Carbs now as of jetting?

whats in the Carbs now as of jetting?

I have a ? on why your running your elkas with 300PSI The max is 200psi. If your needing more dampening then you need to move to a 5wt-10wt shock oil.

Yeah I have used the rubberized truck liner spray with luck... I have painted the elka springs on my rhino because they where off of a race rhino and looked really bad. I have one season on them from the dunes and they still look like I just painted them.

I would go to around +4 timing. The Fatty are not a top end pipe so you will gain from the timing. The builders on here are going to want to know your combustion squash. As for Jetting... I dont have a clue on a 4mil bike like yours. Also, are you using the stock intake boots to the box with a K&N in there?

Here you go.... Read up!!! http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

6 pack rack and another gas can back there. I can get a 2gal in my raptors 6pack rack. Or you can look into the 5 gal ims tank and so on.