GrMeyer

It did to me. But it also go colder.

If you strip the finish your will have to watch out to not get them on the seals. They are a harsh cem for a reason. If you want to repaint them. I would sand blast them if you can and tape off all the parts that have seals. If not then you can try some good'ol hand job action on the shock with some sand paper. Hope this helps.

Good to know

I would say to start around 270 with the lid on. and those temps. If you take the lid off, the banshee is a new machine. 310 with out the lid for starting. So you will need to decide if your wanting to run with the lid on or off. You can also drill 6-8, 1inch holes in the top of the lid to help bring more air in. I would leave the stock pilot and work with the main right now. And put the needle on the 3rd clip just off starters.

I think you will like the wider front end. It is a lost safer and easier to ride with a wider front. I went with a +2+1 and love it. I ride trails in the summer and dunes in the winter. Dont have anything back to say about the set up. You just have to watch out off what trees you can fit through and what not. Also corners are made with ease and you feel alot stable at higher speeds. You might also want to see about going to a wider axle as well if you dont have one.

Umm for the stock rear shock I really dont know but if I had to guess, somewhere around 175. Call up or email yamaha or a dealer that can rebuild them and ask them for the PSI and weight they are using for rebuilds. Because I sure would like to know as well. Just havent had the time to do the research on the rear shock. Let me know what you find out. Ill try to stop off at one of my local shops where I get my bikes put on the dyno to see what he has to say. I had talked to Elka and they have their own oil made. They use a 2.5wt and charge their shocks to 200psi. Also you might want to look into converting the rear shock to a schrader vavle. That way you wont have to dick with the needle anymore. And be able to get filled at almost any welding supply stores. Best of luck and I hope I help

Because Tors are junk and will mess with the bike. And if you even come close to water... Watch out!!! I had my bike stick WOT and I had to shut it down. But having the Tors gone will help in the process of jetting. There is a big thing as well. Carb sync'n. Alot of people think they can do it by the eye but they will be way off still. Having the carbs synced with a vac meter will mostly get rid of some of the bog down low. As for 1/8- 1/2 is Needle and pilot air screw. For jetting; people need to remember to work with the main jet first. Then the needle. Then the pilot/air screws. But If you read that site I said to read. It will answer mostly all your questions. There is also a Tread on here that one of the members went and made a video on how to sync the carbs.

Keep the reeds as close and into the motor as you can. If you think about it. It closes off to the motor to keep the fuel/air mix in the motor. If you space the reed back then your allowing the compression-fuel/air mix to come out. I dont understand why they call them reed spaces. They should have named them carb/reed spacers. But mostly they are there to space the carb back and off the clutch lever. But hey. Anyone with a dyno and has done testing on both; I would love to hear the out come of which one is better.

As MJ said. Get the rear rebuild. Have it srung to a dual rate and valved for you. As for the fronts. I have ran the Pro Series 3-way adjustable damping piggyback shocks with Triple-Rate Springs and loved them at first over stock. Then I started having problems. About after 30mins of riding in the dunes they started to fade fast. You could feel the shocks and they got HOT. I put the yfz450 shocks on and never looked back. I soon want to valve them and make them into a dual rate set up. On my raptor I went with the Elka Dunes and have been on them for 4 yrs. Never have been happier. As for the pricing. I have two quads that have the basic elka shocks on them and they are great! I had a rear shock rebuild by works and the worst thing ever. They couldnt get the valving right and after the 3rd try they put me to the curb. I had elka build a dune edition rear shock and it is the shit. Everyone in the group I ride with wants one. But there is one reason why I say I would go with the Yfz shocks over works in a sec. They have compression adj and rebound adj. And for those, you will pay out of the ass to get those on a set of works or elkas or other company. But if you can find a set of used after market shocks then you are in for good news. The only thing you will need to look at is they ill prob be need rebuild and that is around $100 a shock depending on what parts are needed. So that is just some food for thought.

If he just removed the snorkle and not the lid. 280-310 will be way way to rich!!! But if he removes the lid then he should be in the area of around 290 +/- for air temp and elevation.

I thinks it is around 3wt

well i know alot of TT guys use the R6 rear shock

are you wanting lower the bike 2" all around or just drop the front 2"? I would look and try to find some TT forums.

What stock shocks are you talking about? If it is the rear your wanting to rebuild or just change the oil then you can get a new seal head for around $15-20 from atv parts unlimited. As for the fronts. Good luck. Your better off buying new ones or finding some used ones with low hrs on them. But I would just move to he yfz shocks and be done with it. That way you will have compression and rebound adj as well. As for oil in the shocks. I would run around 2.5-5wt depending on how your riding. The thicker it is the more dampening you will have. So I would mostly stick with around a 2.5-3wt. As for the rear shock. It is a needle charged shock. So you will need a N2 needle to drain it unless you want to use the Football needle to drain it. Bet of luck and I hope this helps... I have another topic in here that has the How 2 rebuild the shocks.

If your not ported with those pipes then the 27.5 will be to rich for your bike. Stay with the 25. As for the other guy. I would go with AK on the jetting. And read this site http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

Read this site http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html Pull the carbs Clean the carbs and find out what pilot and main jets your running List all the mods. What elevation your running and temp your having Are the stock carbs and if so do you still have the tors on them?

What jets are in there now? What is your elevation? What temps are you running in? Do you have to Tors still on? Read this from top to bottom. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html As for a rec on your jetting. I would stay with the stock 25 pilot and move the jetting to around 220-230 for starters and the needle on the 3rd clip. Report back when you have the ?'s answered so everyone else can help you as well

Get some zip locks bags so you can put the bolts into and label them. Like clutch side case. It will save you time and keep everything clean. This way you wont be hunting down nuts and bolts

I have heard about some cracking and what not. I went with Pro-X because I want to try something else. Well I have been running them for almost a year now and no probs. I just changed out my domes and everything looked good. But if your just going to sell the bike then I would go cheap and slap the bike together and sell it. If your going to keep it then I would just save up the cash to go with good and proven parts.

Yes elka puts a number on all their shocks and have it in the system. So if someone down the road gets your shocks they can call elka and find out how the shock was set up from them. It is nice as well because, when I buy parts from them, all i do is give them the shock numbers and the parts I need and about a week later they are here at the house. Ill bash works. They suck all around. Have had nothing but probs with them and I even had a rear shock rebuild by them. Bad Idea. And they wouldnt fix it.

I would have to agree with the elka dunes. But if your going to go all out on shocks you might as well get the ones with rez and compression rebound adj. That way you can fine tune them for any type of riding you will be doing. But as for the tread on how 2 with the shocks. The top shock mount is only shaved down on the bottom side so it clears the rez on the shock. As for the arms. I would just go and find some after market arms and then you will not have to cut or what not on the stock bottom arms. I cut mine because I wanted the shocks and didnt care about the arms because I knew I was moving to a +2+1 arms. I wouldnt turn you to any works shocks out there. Maybe if they are given to you but not what they are worth and what they do. They are crap in my book.

I have had elkas for the past 4 years and love them. The only thing you will have to look into is changing the oil in the shocks about once a year or depending on how hard you ride them. I have them on four quads and a rhino and wouldnt trade them for anything. I would love to try PEP or someone else if they would give em to me to try them. But the company I dont like is Works. Have had shitty luck and friends that have had the same probs.

From the stuff that i have seen and read on that yfz and banshee shocks dont have a long enough strock to take the full advantage of the triple rate springs and most are just staying with dual.

Im not a big fan or not even a fan of works crap. I have had nothing but probs with them in the past and they didnt want to take care of them. Went with Elka and have never looked back. I swapped out my pro triple rate works for a set of yfz450 shocks and much better. The rez on the works is about 2/3s of the size of the stock rez on the yfz. which leads to better cooling and more oil. My works kept fading really fast just after about 30mins of dune riding. You could feel the shock and they where getting hot. Feel the yfz shock or my elkas and they are nice and cold. And plus with the yfz shock you get compression adj, rebound and preload adj. Your going to pay out your ass just for those adj on works shocks. I have been riding my yfz shocks for 2 years now with no complaints. Just wanting to make them a dual rate springs and revalve them for the dunes and thats it. But all in all on those Progressive shocks, they are a great up grade for like a stock rhino or what not. Had a buddy use them for about a year at the dunes and loved them over stockers. Then he moved to LT with some elkas as well.

I would go with the yfz45 shocks over those. you cant adj them for that price. And the yfz450 shocks will also allow you go move up to +2+1 arms with out having to get them resprung and valved.