GrMeyer

could also try the iron on as well depending on what kind of flag it is

umm jettings did you put in the carbs? and are you running the inbox K&N with or with out lid? Did you unplug/cut out the black box under the gas tank? Did you resync the carbs?

im trying to send the saves on to you as well as Dave. So all in all I have a buddy that I work with going to be company that we get are o-rings from on friday. It might take some time to figure some things out but in the long run i hope it works out for everyone on the other end.

Well thanks Dave you just saved me some time in mic'n and seaching the books. Ill see what I can do

Just got my jugs ported put it all back together and then had my crank blow up in less then 2 hours of easy riding. so now im on my new crank that is weld and will see how long this one will last. Just waiting to put my Noss head back on with some new domes...

yeah put the compression in the the middle of the clicks as well as the rebound. and as for preload i have mine always up to the top of the adj even with +2+1 arms. all you can do is just ride it and adj as you go. but if i remember right i have my rebound set somewhere around 3 less then the middle and for the compression im around 5-7 clicks in from fully out.

I have the head but I own a pool company and deal with O-rings alot. So I was going to look them up and see if I can get them cheaper for him as well...

I need some orings for my noss head. Anyone know the specs of the orings?

dont ride the bike anymore untell you get bigger main jets...I dont know shit about the stock pipes. But if your running pods you should deff be in the 280's if not higher. And as for jetting for the 65deg to 90deg is hard. you will have to do your jettin when its the coldest or you will have a lean mix down low. Just remember when it gets hotter you will get richer for jetting. And im guessing the Pilots should be fine. but work on the main jetting first then the needle then the pilots. here is a good site I use all the time when I forget shit... http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

Umm the stock pilot is fine if your running the lid. as for the main you might be to rich and might end up around 250 ish. and as for idling im guessing you have the Tors still on so you will have to bring up the idle with those to be NOBS slotted for a flat head. You will also have to resync the carbs or your bottem end will suck. So all in all get a Tors Eliminator Kit for it. And ditch the snorkel. it is like trying to run with a straw in your mouth. And as for the needle. put it in the midle and you need to set the main before you set the needle.

had the same prob...when Mine was sticking like wouldnt come out even if I did my rubber mallet out at the dunes it wouldnt come out...So I sprayed some WD-40 on the damn thing and it works great..I still need to rebuild it but hey hasnt given me any probs sense the spray. but sure does raddle like a mother.

well I didnt see that you had a stoker or porting done to the bike. As for paddles dont go over 8. You wont have enough power to push them. I would go for the head first. The reason why I say go with the head is that you will have added cooling a you will be able to change out the domes for compression. That is what I did...Then I go on Ebay and got some Haulers from a guy called ORTires.com ebay name Peterson_IND. I have ran his tires for over three dunes season and getting ready to go on my 4th. I have 3 buddies that run them and last longer then the More $$$ Haulers.. My brother had a paddle start coming off and we took pics and sent them to the guy and he sent a new paddle out free of charge. They have changed the way they adhear the paddles on to the tires and have not given us any probs. and they are only $150 with free shipping!!!

umm im going to say you need to go up to 27.5 pilots... as for boiling over you might have another prob on your hands... is your main the right main jet for your bike. If it is lean it will heat the bike up fast and boil the water and soon melt the pistons. Riding in 100deg temps on the 2stokes are hard on them unless you have them tuned in well. Just remember that 70deg temps to 90deg temps will change the jetting. so I ways jet for the coldest part of the day and when it starts to get around 95 is when I go back and get the 4stroke if I want to keep riding. But do some plug chops to see if you have the right jetting in you bike.

im going to throw my .02 out there and say that you are lean. it is kind of hard to tell if those are 2mm rings or not. But I dont go buy how the plugs look...I tune my bike by the way it feels. It take me longer to chop a plug then it is to throw new jets in and go for a run. It is spiten and spuddering as you want to climb rpms and if you go half throttle you will climp fast? if that is it (IE you are lean) if it boggs then you have rich condition. but I always richen my mains first to see if it helps and if it gets worse then you know you need to go lean..

if the bog is in the mid then its the needle but for jetting you need to work on the mains first then the needle then the pilot. So do some plug chops at WOT to see if you are lean on top... Just remember you will go lean on cold and rich when warm out.

are you using the lid or not?

you can raise the idle but if you have the TORS you will need to resync the carbs

im here in Phx and have alway used 50/50mix of the green shit.. and I have used the ATF type F for over a year and with dunes and trail riding I think that the ATF works better for the wet clutch. You have to change it more often but I just go to walmart and get the cheap shit sense I change it ALOT. Just split the cases the other night and the trans looks new. I blew up my crank so a new one is on the way then off to true and weld. And as for riding here in AZ you might want to look into get a Temp gauge. I was talking to LiftdT4R and he said that he got a 16PSI guage/rad cap and that autozone/ autoplaces should be carrying them. That way you can keep an eye on the temps. and I never ride my bashee in over 100deg temps...

Just save your money and if and when you pull the top end off look and see if they are ported. if they arent spent the extra $ and get the porting and new top end in one. That is if you have the money and want the banshee to rip...or get a new top end and hope that you dont have to mil the top but im guessing you will have to have it cut to a new size. Everyone likes Wiseco for their stuff. I have ran them in the past and have had great luck. I went with some Pro-x this time just to try them out and seems they work great...Now I just have to add a new crank due to a pin on the crank breaking off. But all in all list your mods... mostly I just want to know what you have done or have on the bike. And welcome to the banhsee world of never ending $$$ for power. One ? for you on your compression testing. Did you hold the carbs open with the gas OFF and kick it tell the gauge stops moving?

Umm do you have porting done to your jugs? because holy hell if you dont..i have a dune port and run 320's in the summer. And that is with the lid on or do you mean 240's? and if you just have the lid off it wll lean it up so it will be lose of power...if your going to keep the lid off you need to rejet... I would start around 290 and work down.

yes adding a +4 to the timing will help.. and you will need a flywheel puller as well..

also a bog down low is due to carbs being out of sync

the pilots depend on the motor...as mine ran fine with them...but every motor is diff. so you will just have to play around with it to see if you need bigger ones or not To verify your pilot/airscrew circuit jetting, start the motor and let it warm up fully; install fresh spark plugs, start it (without using the choke) and let the motor idle for about 10 minutes; pull the plugs and look at the center electrode and base ring; they should be a light chocolate brown color if you're dialed in.

Good to know Thanks

I have GTravis Racing's Dune port and loved it...Only have about an hour of ride time tell my bottom end blew up on me so im working a on a True and Weld