GrMeyer

And plus mud and shit will stick like glue.

I mounted mine to the fender. There is a bolt that hold the plastics on up by the radiator. I just pulled the bolts and drilled the hole out a little and I have two lights. Best part is that they are higher up on the bike like maybe an inch but I also have left and right adj.

I have ran that oil for three years in my banshee and it is great. I have never fucked up plugs or anything. I also just got done doing a new crank for true and weld with ported jugs and pistons. Just popped that head off to change out my domes for dunes season and everything looks good. I have come to the state of mind that people will say things that they have not a clue about just because someone told them to run this oil or that oil. Any why do you only want to run the oil that you can get from a motorcycle dealer. The owner doesnt care. He is just trying to make money. So what your really sayn is that I can get some cooking oil and put it the self at my bodies shop and you will run that oil in your Bike? "But hey it came from the motorcycle shop"

Its not what you guys think it is. You just dont ride around all day and what not. 95% of the guys just sit in their trucks at some locations and wait for things to happen. About two years ago I watched a smuggler run over a border patrol dude. The guy turned around and went back into the dunes and off to Mexico he went. Need less to say, we couldnt leave camp for two days because of the investigation going on by the FBI.

Well I would have to say that I would be looking at getting the head back for sure. And if not then I would call the cops for theft. When you pull the motor and everything else make sure you get a full gasket kit. And a clymers manual. The book has everything in it. Also if and when you pull the jugs you will have to take some measurements on the ports. This will help for a builder on here to help you find out whats going on in that motor of yours. Looks like a fun project. Just take your time and you will be happy at the end but the wallet will be light.

You need to keep an eye on things when you change your mix. because if you go less oil then you will be getting more fuel in then it was use to.

Deff keep the cool head. It is a great up grade and will allow you to change your compression if you want more power. Also, start looking for a 28mm or a 30mm carb to put on your bike. That is if you dont have a 4mil kit in there. And If it does then you can look for carbs around 33mm to 35mm. Aslo try to get some pics of the porting. Then someone on here will beable to help you in the right direction on whats going on in the motor. And you said that the compression came out to around 155-165. Just make sure your using around 100 oct. maybe get away with a mix or 91/93oct with 100 to help you cut the cost of riding down. I try to use the least oct rating with out any ping. But if you go back to a stock head you will lose alot of the power on the bike that is already there with the domes it is using.

Well I run 91 oct with a mix of 100ll. But it all depends on your bike...If it is a stock head then your fine to run 91. If your running domes for a higher compression around 150 and up then thats when most of the guys on here are moving to race gas.

I didnt go through them for their arms. I went off line from someone that had a great deal on them. And then I ordered my shocks. Sometimes its ok to go with the kit and others it is easier to peace together. I just knew i was looking for a +2+1 arms and look for deals on them. I have tried the Fullflight arms and they held up fine but the hemi joins go fast. So i moved back to a ball joined arms. So it all depends on what your going to be doing with the quad and how much your wanting to spend. I would have to say that a good set of shocks for MX/duning would need Preload and compression at the min. And rebound is great if you know what your doing for setting up your shocks. It does take time for trial and error. I didnt learn how to set my bikes up for almost a month of riding and tryn to get a feel for what everything does. On some shocks if you change the compression it will mess with the rebound. But not with elkas. That was another reason why i love their shocks.

Im not putting fox shocks down... They are a great company. All my advice has come from years of experience with cars, trucks, quads, hot rods, sand rails, race cars and so on.

If you go to a longer a arms then your going to need shocks that are valved for that length. Valving is the key and also having the right preload on springs as well. The only prob with using an air pump on shocks is that it is normal air. That air will get hot and expand over time of riding. Making for a harder/taller ride. If you moved to a N2 air then that will not fade. That is why they use it in the air side of the shocks on all shocks with oil. But all shocks need to have maintenance on them once a year... Should have their oil changed every year depending on how hard and time on bike. Just like motor oil, sludge builds up as the oil breaks down.

Ok here is the deal.. .I would go with the +2+1 arms and elkas... I have had two sets of the standard elkas and they are great. I sold them to my dad and a buddy of mine and they are night and day over stock... Also moving to a +2+1 arms the bike will handle like its on rails. I am I big fan of elkas... I have the dune shocks on my 660 and 700 raptors and elkas on my rhino. The only reason why I didnt go elkas onmy banshee is because I have had great luck with the yfz 450 shocks. I for one like fox shocks on rails and what not but have had some neg feed back on the floats. When they heat up they fade fast and ride higher and harder. As for works have had nothing but probs with them. I had the triple rate pros on my 660 and they faded after about 30mins of dune riding... You would feel the shock and it was hot. Moved to the elkas and they are ice cold. Aslo the rez's on the works are smaller then the yfz 450s. If i was you I would save my money and spend the money on nice shocks that are all around adj. The basic elkas are very nice for what they are and you can get them set up on how you want to ride. But find some nice heavy duty arms if your going to be doing MX the standard alba arms are nice but arent made for the xm unless you get the comp edition. I have the sport edition on my 660 and love them. try to find something with 4130 chromoly. I have the Burgard +2+1 arms on my banshee and they are great and have held up to everything i have thrown at it. And I love to jump my banshee like its a 2 wheeler. So best of luck!!! Anymore ?'s feel free to message me.

I would bump the mains up to 330's and work around there. I was running 290's before I went to a dune porting and Im now running 320 mains but going to bump it up to 330 due to colder weather.

while you have a plug out keep the boot on and hold the spark plug ground to a bolt and have someone kick it over. There should be spark. Also have you removed the TORS on the rebuild. If you did make sure that the black box under the left front of the tank is unplugged. If your thinking there is no fuel getting in to the motor then you need to pull the carbs and clean them. If there is fuel in the bowls then you just having probs getting fuel out of the carbs which is where the cleaning comes in. All so keep carb cleaner away from any rubber. It will distort it and will never be the same. Also if you have a compression test you need to check that as well if your plugs are wet. Because if there is not enough compression then the motor will be hard to fire.

Its from heat. I had the same thing happen to my FMF pipes after riding in the heat of the day. Mine happened when I was up at the cinders in arizona on a hill climb. I am was running 32:1 oil mix. So now i ride only when its under 90deg time out side. and when there are long straight aways to keep air moving.

I dont jet by looking at plugs. I jet by feel. Keep adding main jets tell you get the wot bog. Then back down a main jet and then work on the needle.

you might be in the 300's depending on your elevation and temp your running in

For the light...Tail Tech is know'n for their the bad Ballest... I have sent mine in for three different ones.. Im on my Gen 4th what the tec said. My brother just sent his back in about a month ago and they have upgraded again to Gen 5. So call tail tech and see whats up... if your the owner from the get go then your good. If not you need to find the first owner of the lights and have him send them in. Each year with them at the dunes they end up going out due to high vibration. So I have learned when doing night rides to take one of those cheap head lamps from walmart with the three LED white light and two red to be in my pack. So no matter what I have some kind of light. So your not the only one seen probs with Trail Tech lights.

Is there a reason on why your running Q16? Unless its just sitn around the house. Are you running like 200psi and a shit load of timing? As for jets..you will have to drill your own. There are some post around here all about E85 and how people like it and dont like it. I figure if i cant run 100ll then i need to make the bike into a drag. And from what I have read is that you will be drillin out the carbs as well. changing to a dual feed petcock. Your almost better off trying to find some used 30-33mm alcohol carbs and do a rebuild on them.

air screw you will have to mess with when your out there...counterclockwise; which is leaner which is between 0 and 1/8 throttle.

well if it is a stock stroke and no porting the 34mm are big for that motor and would make it a top end motor. Keep the cool head so you can change out domes and what not. Kill the boot bottle!!! If you are 155 and one side and 165 in the other.. You might have to look in the motor and need of some new rings. As for lectrons they are ran by the needle. They make a great race carb. Tell you can find the size and stroke of the motor the carbs are a big ? So if and when you do find out whats going on inside the motor, more people will beable to give their (.02) Best of luck and have fun!!!

Like above you should be in the low 300's before my porting with fmf i was running 290 at the day and 300 at night and after porting im now running 320 day and 330 at night... with 27.5 pilots. But its always better so start out larger then need... Just take about in hour to tune your bike in and you will have not probs after. If your going to be running around camp and doing gear pulls to see if you jetting is on, just make sure you watch out for the kids tracks.. they are BAD this year. I will do a pre run before I start doing pulls. Last weekend I was there the temp was round the 80's at day and 40's at night.

Is there a reason why you are wanting to run the lid? Taking the lid off and the banshee is a new bike!!! I dont know where to start out on mains but 25 pilots should be enough. But if your keeping the lid on i would try starting around 250ish for the mains. But having the elevation and temp will help out some other people on here to help dial you in better.

Well for Glamis with out any mods besides intake and the Fattys i was running 290 in the day and 300 at night. So I would deff bump up the mains tell you can ride it around camp out there and see how it runs. I went on ebay and found a guy that was selling main jets. I got from 280-290-300-310-320-330 and it was like 15 with shipping.

As for the lid, did you keep it on or off? and did you remove the snorkel? Any added holes to the intake. But with a lid off you should be around the 280ish depending on temp and elevation. Also if you have the tors on the carbs I would highly recommend removing them if you are anywhere close to water. Plus it makes for tuning the carbs 10x easier.