GrMeyer

Like above. If you dont have the tors kit. Get one for it. I helps out alot when you do jetting... Read up on this site http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html Are you running the lid? If you are then the 270ish should be a good starter. If your not running the lid. Then 290 would be a good starting point. I would also learn how to rejet the bike. Save you alot of money. Also you can get a lot of jets on ebay from around 240-330 for around $30 if I remember right. But if your ported and running those pipes you should be in the 27.5pilots and then around 320 with the lid off. You will also need to learn how to sync the carbs. or You will have one bad bottom end.

Here is a great site to read on to help with jetting. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html But if you have the 2-1 filter with fattys. You should be around 310ish and 27.5 pilots for winter. In the summer I had to move back the the 25 pilots and mains went down to around 290's. Also you need to make sure the the carbs are synced before you try to dial in the bottom end of the bike. If they are out of sync, one pipe will come on before the other and will take most of the load tell you get the carbs opened up more. There is a air meter gauge that you can buy that will help tune them in. I tried to do it by sight and by the glass windows and they where still off after checking them with the air meter gauge. They are around $35 and will help you in the long run. Unless you go to a single carb. But the 240 mains are for the pipes with the air box lid still on. So dont ride it tell you get some more jets and have it jetted or you will be doing a top end rebuild. If you are on ebay, there is a guy that is sellin a lot of jets as a package for around $30ish. Great deal for those. If you plan on keeping the stock carbs. I would invest in the TORS kit. And getting the jets from around 250-340ish because that will allow you to jet for mods later on. The guys on here are great to help out in anyway they can and send you in the right direction. Just remember to try the SEARCH button first because almost everything has been asked. Best of luck and ride it like you stole it. AFTER JETTING!!!!

This is the best thing I can give you... http://www.dfn.com/b...ren/jetfaq.html Read up on that site. But from above jetting. That should put you in the park to play. You might as well just start stocking the jets from around 260-320ish. There is a guy on Ebay that sells jets in a big pack. But just remember when jetting. Set the carbs in the order of the main jets, needle then pilot - air/mix screws. Also make sure the carbs are synced or you will have shitty bottom end.

yeah Ill be out there from the 18th-21st. Around wash 15ish. Grey 2008 Chevy 2500 with a white 40ft weekend worrier. To many toys to list but should be fun to see some people out there. Sense last time for me was New Years.

That there is the same shit I went through. And alot more!!! So I have moved away from works and never been happier. Hope the shock works out for you!!!

Really big fan of the Elkas. I have them on 4 quads and my rhino. But not a big fan of the arms. But hey are a great upgrade over stock. Just make sure you buy some blue loctight on the bolts that hold the hemi's on the spindles. Other then that. You will be happy with the upgrade. You can also us yfz 450 shocks if money is tight right now. You will also start to hear squeaking from the hemis. Just try to keep them clean as you can.

Try to find some local builders if you can. Go to a 4X4 shop and see if they have someone that can rebuild them or know of someone that can. Try the local moto shops as well. But if you can, try to get the seal head and nylon ring to help save you on price flucking. Or see if the local shop can get them at a better price. Most shops will charge around $100 pair for just the rebuild but not the parts. Here is another place to get your shocks rebuild from as well. Have not had anyone send to them yet. But your best bet is to use google and search for atv shock rebuilding and just call them.

With that temp, you should be in the 300's for the main.

Well just like any part you add to a banshee. You will need to check to see if the jetting is on or not. Also, the temp could have changed from the last time it was jetted for. And the Gas/oil mix could have changed.

If you go to a longer swing then it will = to be more force on the spring. So in turn needing to up the preload. In most cases going to a new spring. But I have a buddy that got away just by adding preload. But is on the fine line of having to soft of a spring.

Got two sets of these tires from this guy and have ran them for three years. The first set were vulcanized wrong. So the paddles started to come off. I sent him pics of what was going on and sent me two new tires free of charge. The are great and half the price of more $ tires and work just as well. The have worked well on my banshee before it was modded. And still do great with a modded motor. Not to much paddle and not enough to bog it down. They are very light as well. But the rim size was kind of what through me for a loop. But the more side wall has done well with me for more flex in the tire to help hook up in the sand. But YOU will have to watch out when turning on these tires. Also if you start sliding down a hill or ride the hill sideways. You can just punch the gas and you will straighten out like and arrow.

Whats in it now? Whats the temp your running in? With out the lid and cold temps. I would run around 300's for a starting with the fatty. keep the stock pilot. keep the needle in the middle. If your running the lid. You will prob end up in the 250ish for the mains and same with the needle and pilot. Read up on this site to help you out with jetting. Also when you rejet. Make sure the carbs a synced. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

I guess im just use to always jetting every time I go out riding before I get on and ride the shit out of the bike. Do to the dunes always changing in the lovely temp of 70deg in the day and 40ish in the nights.

the local dealer will charge you out of your ass for jets. try to contact a dealer on here for some ranges or jets. I got a all my jets off ebay from a guy i have been buying from and he sells them to me at around $2.50 a jet depending on how many i buy at one time. I ended up getting 270-340x2's and 27.5 pilots for around $30 shipped. If you ever plan on taking off your lid. Which will really wake up the banshee!!!! I would try to start a collection of jets around the range of 240-320. It will give you room for add on parts, temp, elevation and fuel/oil mix. As for the needle. I start with the needle in the middle. But when you jet, you need to set the main jet first. Then the needle, then the pilot/ air/fuel screw. I would also spend the $50 on getting a TORS kit. It will aid in the help of jetting your carbs. That is if you dont already have the kit. You will also need to learn how to sync the carbs. 75% of the time you can git rid of the low end bog from having your carbs breathing the same. There is a tool you can get from one of the dealers on here for around $35ish. There is a guy that did a HOW2 on how to sync the carbs and is pinned on the forums. I also point this website out to people new to banshees and need help understanding how the carbs works and how to fix your jetting guide line. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html We prob should copy and past this Carb tuning and Pin it so it is on the forum and not another website. I hope this helps. Just keep asking ?'s and also remember to use the SEARCH Button!!! There has been almost everything asked and answered on here. If you cant find it just write back and People on here will give you their .02. Best of luck, have fun and be safe.

Stick with the stock pilots and move to around a 250 main jet for starting.

You need to set the floats so that the fuel will not flow out of the overflow tube. IE the bottom nipple on the float bowl. If you think it is flooded. I would pull the carbs off and pull the plugs and let it sit over night. If I remember, you had a post on here saying that you went to 30pilots. If you dont have porting. Then the stock pilots will work for now. but the 30's are way to much fuel.

How will mixing up your fuel mix be off on your jetting? Last time I checked you dont jet off of fuel oct. All fuel oct is doing is keeping it from preignition. IE motor knocking/pinging. Now if you where to mess with the fuel/oil mix ratio then the jetting will change.

Ok here are some ?'s for you.... Are the works made for the banshee? Do the rez's have compression adj. and rebound adj on them? Are you using aftermarket arms? I know i have the YFZ shocks and love them because I have compression adj and rebd adj. ounMost after market shocks you will pay out of the ass for those adj. When you can pick up YFZ shocks for around 200. Send them off and have them resprung and valved for around 400-500 if you send them and dont do them your self. Still cheaper then buying aftermarket shocks with those adj. I had a set of Pro series piggy back with triple rate springs that only had compression adj and preload. They would fade after about 30mins of riding. Tried to send them back to works to have them fix it and they would work with me. Moved to yfz shocks and have had great luck. The rez's on the yfz shocks are about 50% bigger then the works. which helps with cooling. Also, the valving is really different in the works shocks then every other shock out there. So most shops have trouble revalving them to you.

Dont be miss taken elkas. They have two types of shocks that done have compression adj. But if your saying knob and not spring nut, then they have compression adj.

The more you move down the preload on the sping. The less travel you have. So the best bet is to just have it Resprung and valved for you. I bet (100%) that the rear shock is shot anyways.

Are you running the air box? Lid? Snorkel? Mods in lid? Porting? Elevation? Temp? remember that clockwise; which is richer on the air mix screw. Also read up on this. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

Ok so here is the main ? AK was asking. What temp is it now that the bike will be running? And what is the cheap intake with no box? Are you running pods? As for a guess. I would have to say you should be 27.5 pilots and around 330 mains. But that is just a guess because 15deg-100deg is a big difference in jetting.

What is your elevation? If your in the 3k or higher. You should be fine with the 25 pilots. The 30s are way to big. I have 27.5's with a dune porting. As for the needle. You need to set the mains first. Then the needle. Then the pilots. And then the air screw. With the coldness. Your jetting should be in the 310 range. Start the needle on the middle clip. And put the stock pilots back in. Turn then 1-1/2 turns from seat. Also, read up on this site. It will help you out on whats going on with your carbs. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html Also list all the mods as well. But the big factor is do you have porting done?

You have to reset the floats. Are they stock carbs as well? If they are, are you making sure that you are also reconnecting the choke tube? Also, when you changed out the float needle. Did you change out the body that the needle sits in? I had one that the oring went bad and the needle didnt have anything to do with it.