GrMeyer

Are you just putt'n around on the bike? Is the weather colder? Is your premix the same? Did you shake up the tank/gas can before riding? I know if i dont ride all out on the bike, there will be build up of oil that doesnt burn off. If your bike has been sitting for sometime, the oil will settle down to the bottom of the tank and when you run the bike, it will run rich on oil.

+2 or you can turn the sprocket by hand and shift up and down as well.

Got a Z400 and it runs great. It has been a great back up bike for when my bikes go south. And it is the GF bike to ride around. Also a loaner bike as well.

I looked into getting my stock crank rebuild about 6 months ago and it was much much cheaper to buy a new crank.. I got a new wiseco crank for $210 shipped.

I could see shaving the flywheel if your racing. But when you shave it your going to lose the weight of the wheel when your dropping the clutch which will have lose in bottom end launching. It might rev out a tad faster. If you know someone with a lath, they can cut some off for you but wouldnt cut much. But I would have to say, go for the dual carb set up and lose the single carb set up. or find around a 40mm carb to put on that intake.

+2 on the black box... I forgot about it when I did my tors. Also, they dont make jets in 5's. They go in 10's Also as for a starting point of jetting. We need to know if you still have the air box on. If so are there any mods done to the lid? And what temps are u running in. Also take the boost bottle and hit it with a hammer and put the stock tube back on.

Sounds like a head gasket leak. Is it the stock head? If so did you check the deck for trueness? You might have a warped head. Or a worse case the jugs might be warped. Are you sure it is over heating or it is getting pressurized forcing the coolent side to have to much presser and forcing water/coolant out? Also what pilots are you running? 27.5 and are you ported?

30pilots will be rich on those pipes. I have dune porting with those pipes and im running on the mid to rich side with 27.5. The mains I would start out like said above 340 and work around there. But it would also help more if you we could get your elevation and temp your going to be riding in. As for the domes. What gas are you wanting to run?

I guess you and I are in the same boat on Works shocks. I dont like them at all. I would almost rather ride a rigid frame.

Hey thanks for some more info. I'm not worried on valving due to having compression and rebound adj on the shock. Or do I still need to move the shims around? Where are u locaited. PM if u wouldn't mind. And if u know anyone in the arizona state. I think u cleared up a lot of ?s people have to ask about shocks.

Its a great upgrade if money is tight. Also you can use them if you end up puttin +2+1 arms on your quad as well. Those where the first thing I did to my banshee for suspension and was very happy with them. But I didnt grind anything off my shock... I cut out the bottom A arm for mounding and shaved some of the top mount. Didnt want to take away from the shock it self.

Well this is the email I got from Elka We use Elka oil but you can purchase 2.5weight shock oil at your local dealership (Silkoleen, belray and others will be fine). Also what type of ATF if ever in a pinch.

I guess its time to re email them and find out the oil they use. Thanks

the over flow is to keep the tree huggers happy

Just buy the flywheel puller and mod the stock one. It was cheap like very one said. There are some people that can get +5deg out of it but I didnt want to chance mine so I just cut to +4 and has been good to me ever sense. If my memory serves me right, there is a how two or a pic on here of a modded stock plate.

Raptorforum.com That is the place for raptors

Ace is the Place!!!

What is some of the Oils and weights/viscosity that you recommend for shocks. Like I know Elkas have 2.5 weight in them.

Also people need to remember that some of the pistons that they expand when they warm up. So thats why I say do it on a warmed up motor.

Wisco doesnt come welded unless you ask for it. I had this prob when I got my crank and was told they where all welded but they arent

If you have a compressor you can 2nd check the gauge. But its the hose that is what is throwing your compression off. It still has to travel all the way up to the gauge before it will read the compression.

Thought the same thing to but my crank said NOPE I will blow up on you. So i learned the hard way. So now I just tig weld them without filler.

Came by this site that will take anyones ?'s out of doing their own shock rebuilding Hope it helps everyone. http://borynack.com/XR650R/xr650r_shock.htm

You want to keep the reeds as close and in the motor you can. The only good thing about the spacers is to move the carbs back. Thats about it. Other wise you got your self some nice paper weights.

Just make sure you do a light run when your changing out the oils... That way you can get all the old type of oil out and go fresh with new oil after the drain of the mixed tranny fuild.