GrMeyer

Stock carb float height from clymer's is 20-22mm---0.80-0.88in.

Gecko = V Sandstars = L And the Sandstars will side more more then then V of the Gecko or the Haulers.

Where in my words did I say to run a V. I said an L at a 45deg like the sandstars. I have had V paddels as well and agree that V's do not slide one bit. All I said is that the ass will slide easier with paddles like the sandstars over the haulers.

What motor mods do u have done?

Stay away from the jet kits. One of the site sponsors can hook u up with all the jets and parts u need. What's ur mods, elevation, temp and jets ur running now. This way we can help better to know what's going on better.

Is the lid on or off? If the lid is off the the mains I would start with would be around 300s needle in the mid and 27.5 pilots. If the lid is on then everything but the mains I would start with around 260s depending how cold it is. As for floats, I don't remember what they are to be set at but someone shoud beable to have some info for yeah.

Damn u Savage, took the site right out of my mouth! As he said, read up on it so u understand what and how jetting for the carbs.

Mount the filter in the box. So keep the K&N and take the lid off. Jet the bike and it will be a new ball game. The banshee loves to breath. So keepn the lid on will b e the weak point. With the lid off. Ur jetting wold me around 300 mains needle in the middle and 27.5 pilots. With the lid. I should be around 270 with some holes in the lid. Needle in the mid and still 27.5 pilots. Put the timing at +4. If u plan on putting the timing plate on u will need a flywheel puller. This set up should get u in line for one quick bike. Also u will need to learn how to sync the carbs or ur bottom end will suck!

What mudtruck said. Then u have the tool for later on life. Just do a little at a time to make sure u don't hog it out. Its easy. Best of luck!

I had a starting prob after washing my bike as well. Took the air gun to it for about 5mins and bamm. I think my cdi got wet some how. I have a ? For u. Do u still have the TORs on? I use to always have probs with the tors if my bike ever saw water. Removed and no more over rides. Best of luck

try the site sponsors first. Then try the for sale. Then ebay. But the sponsors should be able to hook you up with what you need.

I have had a rear shock built by works and what a shitty time. Had a buddy do the same because he added a +2 swinger on one of his bikes. Same turn out. Shitty. I tryed to talk to them about how f ed up it was and they just said we can do it but it will be $$$ out of ur pocket to do it again. They would not stand be hind their work. Had the same probs with their pro tripple front shocks. Try them out and send them back if u don't like themm BS. Sold the F ers and went to elka. Have never had bad luck with them and have been right the first time. I think u should have went with like gt thunker or racetech or some other company rather then works. Just my .02 on what I have had probs with

Well said Rod. But there is also a topic on here somewhere on how to mod the stock plate to get +4 timing and even +5. I did this and it works just well. Only thing I had to do was buy the flywheel puller. But having the air lid off and jetted is one of the biggest free mods u can do. (-) some money for jets.

Did u just fix the float prob or did u clean the carbs while u were in there? Did u mess with the air screws at all? I'm guessing it is that the carbs aren't synced. Hope this helps. Also what did u set the floats at?

Are u using oil that stays mixed in that cold of weather? Pull the head and look at the pistons if u haven't done so. Did u melt a piston or seized? There are a few things that could have happened. No oil in the fuel. Over heated. An air leak or just running lean.

I agree with fire... If u have the dual carbs sycned right, there will always be great low end if u have them tuned in right. Sycning carbs takes about maybe 3mins once u get it down. The only nice thing I see that the single carb has would be easier to jet like said above. Ask all the racers and builders. Most all of them will go with dual carbs. I say if u got it then run it. But I wouldn't trade my duals for a single.

All I did was mod the stock ones and put some boyesen reeds.

= None characteristics of rails in the sand.

Thats what Im sayn. Haulers = straight And anything else turns easier. Thats why i went with haulers because I was tired of my ass end sliding all over the place and also when riding the side of the sand hills. Put the haulers on and BAMM no more sliding. When I said turning. I should have said like turning the bike around for doing a 180. Like say you dropped something. The bike will just try to push straight. But for dunes riding and turning. Thats easy. So he said he didnt like the ass to handle like its on rails. Which the haulers like to go straight. And if he want some dune sliding, then he needs to go with a tire like the Itp sand stars.

I would wait tell you get more power before you get a swinger. The 8 paddles work great on my stock bike when I had no porting. Shit im still running them and they seem to work just fine. But when I launch the bike, they sit for a few secs before they start to hook up. But like everyone said, go with a head mod. I got the Noss cool head because I didnt have to change out the head studs like the cool head did. I also got it because then I can change up my compression from dune season to trail. If you ride the dunes and trail with no water or mud. I would look at getting some pod filters if you dont have them. Doing a suspension really helped out the old school stock banshee. Just adding +2+1 arms, yfz 450 shocks and a +4 axle out back really made the bike feel like its on rail in the dunes. You can only ride so long tell you feel like someone hit you with a truck. One more would not be for performance but easier to jet would be the TORS kit. Other then that, you would have to pull the jugs to do more work. But having the jugs ported was a massive improvement for the money. Money well spend in my book!!! Also, read up on this site to help you understand the jetting of the banshee http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

Im talking about the Heims that are on the spindle. Those are the ones that I had probs with. After moving to ball joints, never had a prob ever sense and nice and quiet.

have you checked the ring gap?

Like JB said. sand blast them to get the rust gone or the rust will keep eating away that the pipes. Also people need to remember to start their bikes after a wash to heat the pipes and evap most of the water off the motor. IE less rusting. But I remember that a guy on here did do that header wrap and it destroyed the pipes because it kept the water stayed inside the wrap and sat on the pipes. Best of luck!!!

Like said above. Put the 27.5 pilot in and tune the air screw around 2-1/2 turns from fully seated. Needle in the middle and start with 260 if your running the lid and no snorkel. Are there any mods done to the lid? Like some one drilled holes in the lid to allow more air into the box? But those setting should get you in the ball park like Burt and Sleep said. Also read up on this website. It will help you tune the banshee in easier with out having to come back here. It covers what parts of the carbs do what and how they effect the motor. http://www.dfn.com/b...ren/jetfaq.html One more thing. There is a member on here that did a HOW 2 on how to sync the carbs on the banshee. They are on here and on You tube. Just type in (Banshee Carb Sync). Any probs just write back. You might want to stalk up on main jets from 250-340. If you decide to take off the lid at anytime, it will really wake the banshee up.

Which turbo blue are you talking about? Just Turbo blue being 110 AVgas is 100LL which is 100 oct and LL meaning Low Lead. You need to find out what the compression is going to be with the 18cc. What elevation are you at? If you are below 4000ft for a rough guess. You will need the turbo blue being the compression will prob be in the 170ish. If you shoot to have a compression around 155. Then the 100 you can run. I run a 50/50 mix of 91 and 100ll with my timing at +4. But it will also depend on how well your top end is sealing. But here is another ? for you. Why are you wanting to run that high of compression? Do you have a stock crank? or is the crank True and weld? Because with that much compression, i dont see your crank lasting long.