GrMeyer

Making sure your in the ball park for jetting. What are you mods, temp and elevation?

read up on this site... It is a good help on adj carbs. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html Also. Try turning in the air screws from being about 1-1/2 turns from fully seated. 3-1/2 might be lean with to winter temps. Also when jetting. Make sure you set your main jet first. Then the needle. then the air screws. You also might be a little lean with pods on running 290 mains.

http://borynack.com/XR650R/xr650r_shock.htm look at that site on the basic shock rebuild. But you need to remember that you will need a new seal head. The stock seal head is not a fun one to get out. You will have to drill the old one out so you can get to the c clips that hold it in. There is a page on a guy that did the rear shock rebuild with a shock tech gold package. He also shows what im talking about on having to drill out the old seal head. You will also need a nitrogen needle. I have been having a hard time finding the piston wear band. But you can get a new seal head from ATV Parts Unlimited for $15 plus shipping.

If its on the stock bore. I would safe up and buy a port job. Its the best bang for the buck on a bike. If you go this way. You have have a builder set you up with a new top end when he cuts the bore. But if you are just wanting to safe money right now. Then I would try to get away with some new rings and a hone. Depending how bad that walls are. Also. Make sure you us a compression tester that has a valve in the adapter that screws into the head. That way you can get a true reading. I also do a compression test on a warmed up motor. Because metal likes to expand. Also, Another good mod is an after market head from one of the vendors on here. I have been running my Noss head for two years. And nothing bad to say about it. Good guy to talk with also. When you report back with your compression, make sure you say what elevation your at. Here is a link to what im talking about for the compression tester. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=70901&view=&hl=compression

The metallic particles you are feeling are from the clutch. I have been running the ATF for three years with no probs. Rebuild my motor and toast in a new crank. The gears and bearing looked like new. So if they AFT is not up to par. Then why do they use it in CARS and TRUCKS? And if your bike didnt shift worth a damn then something is wrong. Mine sifts about 5x better then running gear oil or motor oil in the case. I have tried all three and AFT has worked great for me. And if you think what a trans goes thought. Then why not run that stuff. Crazzzy to me that Ford can use Type F and have cars and trucks that have over 100k miles on them with using it. If i could use it in my 4 stroke quads I would. But hey, just my .02

Did you or someone put a clutch basket on? If so. did you/they re tq the basket nut on to specs? If not. and it gets over tighten, it will fold the washer around and onto the basket. Causing it to catch. Acting like the clutch is not letting go.

Same thing here. Not worth the bs and all the dumb people out there. Which equals better sand as well!

Is the lid on or off? Don't ride it tell u can bump the jetting up or unless u want a new topend!

Are u running it with the lid on of off? What's the gearing? What are u looking to get out of the bike? Where are u having probs in the rpm? What's your jetting,elevation and air temp?

+1 I have had the hemi on the bottom of the spindle come off and what a fun ride that was!!!

Oh yeah. Forgot about that one.

U will have no bottom end in that motor with those big carbs. if the YFZ is ported and has a high compression piston. U will be in for one hell of a race. But u can have all the power in the world. But if u don't know how to ride the bike. Its just a fast bike with a shitty rider. Just make sure ur jetted right and launch the bike and get the feel for it. Also be ready to slip the clutch at the start to keep the rpms up

Haulers equal straight line and no ass end slides. If u want to slide, stay with a paddle that is shapped like and an L slanted at a 45deg

Man I started out with 450 shocks on stock arms riding mx. It was a lot of work to put them on because of the bottom arms. But if u know how to adj shocks its not bad at all. The stock springs on the 450 shock are heavy for the stock arms. But will work if u back the preload nut off to the top and bring the compression adj out to soften it up. Also will need to slow down the rebound as well. But a great upgrade over the stock pogos

Damn. I wish I could buy 93. The only thing I can get at pump is 91. Yeah that's one thing people do need to watch out for with 100LL is that it does tend to run a little hotter because of the shit they put in there for high alts.

Ill be out there tomorrow night to sunday. Ill keep an eye out. Sorry to hear about the dog

What are u wanting to mod the shaft for? Just modn the star made mine shift like a hot knife cutn butter. Just watch out when u put the clutch pasket net. If u over tq it. It will bend the washer on to the basket causing it to catch while u pull the clutch in. IE the hard to find 'N' while the bike is running

Mine as well sits high. But mine sits high because the shocks make it sit that way. The front really won't sit down that much more with the motor and fuids. U will need to find out if those shock are made for sag or not. But I'm guessing they aren't. Don't worry about the arms and shocks tell u get to ride it and see how u like it. And what u don't like about it. After some time on the bike, u can talk to a shock builder and have them valved and sprung for what ur needing.

You got to love the smell from the av gas being ran in the bike. I know i love it when I get behind my brothers bike that runs it. Might not be good for brain. But hey, you only live once!

Hey....SHHHHHHHHHHHHH. Dont be giving my money maker away like that!!!

I run a 75-25 mix of AvGas with 91 pump. I have been running it for about two years now with some hard riding on it. Just changed out my domes and everything still looks good. I also run it straight in my built raptors. Just re did my rings on my 660 and everything was very clean. I think that the LL is what gets everyone. Meaning Low Lead. Plus it is about half the price of race gas here in Phoenix.

I would get away from starting fluid. Just get an old spray bottle and put some gas in there that you are using in the bike to help aid in the starting of the bike.

Its a hole lot easier to remove then a bigger 4-stroke motor. Those MF's are heavy!!! The banshee motor is nice and light. You will also see how really the frame is light as well without the motor.

Like said above...Your on the right track. Just add a head with change able domes. Keep the air lid off and make sure that bad boy is jetted right. You shouldnt have a prob of putting him in the dust.

The oakley crowbars are the shit. They take the presser from just pulling on the sides to pulling around the nose on back. I have had them for two years with no dirt or sand getting in my eyes. Sense then, my crew has all gotten them and we all love them.