GrMeyer

What are you really asking? Are you asking if you should upgrade to bigger dual carbs or a bigger single carb? I would get boysesen reeds and mod the stock cages. I run the stock carbs on my ported bike just fine. But will soon be upgrading to 30mm carbs when time comes. But mostly the stock dual will work just fine. And are you wanting Jetting?

Did the frame get powder coated?

That might work for a min or two. But when any fluid hits it, say bye bye. Try to find a friend that has some silicone.

Here are some ?'s for you. Are the jugs ported? What is the elevation? Does it have a cool head? Has the stock head been shaved? Did the test you used have a check valve in the adapter? (for what im talking about) http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=70901&view=&hl=compression

This is what I tell everyone I ride with. If your close to me and you see my rear tires lock up. It equals me stopping. But for the banshee to become street legal, it has the have a functioning break light. Thats what the MVD for Phoenix states. And a long list of other things. But should be interesting to figure out.

Sounds like you need a new Float Needle and Seat put in.

I dont know man. I have one hell of a hard time sliding my bikes ass around with haulers on if your on the throttle. It always pulls me straight and wheelies out. Other then my own ass sliding around on the seat. But having the L at the 45 i have never had a prob of sliding the ass around. But I do have a prob of them hooking up to drag the hill. Seems always like the ass wants to slide left to right with ease. But hey. Haulers are all I run now because of how well they hook up for straight line and always pulling straight.

Have fun with the Hemi joints and sand!!! I would look at converting them into ball joints ASAP. I wouldnt even come close to putting stockers on +3 arms and try riding in the sand. The stockers are already shitty shocks and have a hard time keeping up with the stock arms. So adding +3 to the mix will quickly over heat the shocks causing fade. Stay away from jumps unless you weight is around 125lbs. But best of luck with the set up!

http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html Read up on this!!! Helps alot to understand what does what.

Shitty...Then I guess that the motor is not going back together. Or unless you like air leaks and rebuilding for fun.

Welcome to the world of ATV. There is a jetting section in this forum. Dont run the bike tell you can figure out the jetting. Or you will be adding a new top end to the mix of the bike. Not cheap. But we need to know what size and kind of carb is on there now before anyone can help you. Did is come with after market pipes? And you added the FMFs to it? What pipes use to be on there?

Whats your compression? Do you have port work done?

Those might fit a really small filters. Those are made for a 28mm OD of the mouth of the carb. IE a scooter. Find the OD of the carbs you have and then try searching for (??mm pod filter) on ebay.

Well then I dont see why they wouldnt work. I have been trying to find some 30mm carbs off of a sled for some time. But living in Phx doesnt help me one bit.

I dont see really go any higher then around 350 unless you get really cold. You should be fine with just a set of 27.5's in the bike. If it was me. I would try to get the jets from around 270-350's. That is what I have for my set up and I have only gone to 340s out in the dunes at night time due to being cold. If the guy had is porting done, the guy that did it should have a file or what he did to the jugs. If you can get those numbers. The builders on here can really help you in the right direction on what compression should be and what kind of porting the guy did to the jugs. If it was just a shaved head with stock jugs. Then they would need to know how many thos they took off. The only thing I was trying to show you on the compression tester page was what I was talking about with having a check valve in the adapter. Of then the compression has to go all the way up to the tester and you will get a low reading.

Is this for a single carb set up? Or for a stroker motor?

Well think as jetting the bashee as a never ending think. Moving the 27.5's I would have to say almost every after market pipe needs them unless ur up around 6k ft. But for summers. U still might end up from 310 down to 290 depending on the temps. So u might as well stock up on jets and learn the banshee carbs in and out.

The carbs are what are killing u. Try to find some 30mm carbs

deff move to 27.5 pilots with it being that cold, ported and pods on. I would also think that your mains are lean as well for that temp. You should prob be in the 330's

You got the pipes. So keep them. If you want more out of the bike then there are other bolt on mods and or getting port work done. I have them and they are a great all around pipe.

The bolts that go through the springs are only tq to 7.4 ft.-lb. There is no way the clutch basket would have held 88.8 ft.-lbs. And the clutch Nut only gets tq to 66ft-lbs.

If your wanting to remove the lid. Outerwear makes a lid cover that will help keep out the water and mud. Your banshee will really wake up with the lid off!!! Just think or you trying to run breathing through a straw in your mouth with your nose plugged!!! Not fun.

If you dont have the idle screws and they are not drilled out. I would look for the kit. If i remember right, you can just buy the screws and the tap. I would use the top of the carbs for setting the sync of the carbs and using the throttle adj off the bars to do your idle. Also make sure you set the idle when the bike is warmed up. If your running the lid with no mods to it. Then the jetting should be in the ball park of 250ish and 27.5pilots with the air screw around 2-1/2 turns out from seated. If you want the bike to really wake up. Remove the lid if your not riding in water and mud. They make pods for the carbs. Or you can buy if you dont already have a K&N inbox filter. Then mount the filter adapter to the box by drilling out the 4 corners and put some bolts to hold it in place. Making sure you have a good seal. If you go that way... I would start with the jetting at around 300mains 27.5 pilots and the air screw around 1-1/2 turns from fully seated.

I try to do my compression test on a warmed up motor if i can. Turn your gas off and pull the throttle all the way open. Kick that bitch tell the needle stops moving. Just keep both spark plugs out so it kicks over easier. Also, does your compression test have a check valve in the fitting that screws into the head. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=70901&view=&hl=compression If you do and the compression is only at 120psi. you are fine with 91-93 pump depending on timing. Read up on this site to help you with understand jetting http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html As for a starting point. Mains: 320's if your in the 30s and 300 if you in the 60's for a starting point. Needle: middle clip Pilot: 27.5 Airscrew: 1-1/2 turns from fully seated. Also you have the tors kit on your bike? If not then I would really end up buying one. Around $50 and makes jetting 50X easier for jetting. Also make sure your carbs a synced or you will have some shitty bottom end.