D-Roc

i switch from klotz to amsoil and mix a 32:1, i gained 6hp, lost 27lbs of weight, gained 2 degrees of advance, and 30 psi compression. The oil also lowered gas prices and rebuilt my crank. there is no comparison between these two oils. Amsoil Is way way way better.

check your bore, maybe it isn't parallel to the rods. i have heard of this costing people a couple topend before the figured it out.

why just cut the wires? just to make the bike able to run off and ghost ride into something or someone? I would have thought if your removing the system then it would remove the bulky apparatas atop of the carbs and possible make the thumb throttle a little easier to use. If not then again i ask why? And yes i was thinking a tether on the bars would be away around the ghostriding.

will this mod make the throttle easier on the thumb? do you guys use a tether switch instead?

we leaned a buddies quad out once and blew it the first time out. i would go with what your engine builder recommended. edit: 6 months of hard riding can wear stuff out. maybe it was a bad rod from the factory. There is no 100% true answer. Motors blow, sometimes sooner then later, that is why we have tools. lol. There is a guy with a superjet motor that had a rod let loose and it cracked the bottom and top case, cylinder, intake manifold, carb base, exhaust manifold and the head. Motor was complete junk, nothing worth saving. now that sux!

your jetting looks fine IMO and if your plugs are brownish tan and dry then that confirms you jetted close. if you where too lean and were running WOT your pistons will melt. if you had too much timing or not enough octane, you would have deto holes in the pistons, if you did not have enough oil you would sieze. how does it run? does it run clean and rev up crisp or does it hesitate and fall on its face when you stab the throttle? IF your lean you should be feel a lean hesitation before the power kicks in.

and a hell of a job they are doing. keep it up, a little down time is okay if the board stays alive.

In my limited experience a lean WOT run tends to melt the top of the piston from the added heat. This happens on the exhaust side of the piston crown and melts down usually to the rings until you loose compression. on our jetskis when we swamp our skis and fill the motor with water it is important to get the water out and the motor up and running ASAP so you can burn out the moisture. If you don't, then next time out your rods usually let go. ask me how i know. IMO an airleak doesn't throw rods but stranger things have happend.

well if the banshee is anything like the 61x cylinder for my superjet, the ports will be mismatched and full of horrible casting flaws. the sleeves where not equal between front and rear cylinder either, and protruded into the intake tract unevenly. The template fixed that and widened the exhaust port without changing port timing. this gave me alot of bottem end and midrange hit. i am hoping that the trail port for the banshee would be the same. that with cleaning of the intake ports up i would think would give the banshee some more power all around. i don't really want more topend power but would like some extra bottom end grunt for trails.

Anyone use the trailport template to port their jugs? if so how did you like the results? I used one on my 718cc superjet motor and it gave the engine some real attitude, for 90.00 i thought it to be a good deal.

yeah the hose does go into the rad, i was confused and somehow looked at the hose and followed it up and somewhere i started looking at a plug wire which goes into the coil.....duh! Canada bro, we got the banshee for two more years. I got the last one available in ontario that the dealerships could find. thanks for the input, the quad has been running fine since an i don't knwo what was causing this, it seemed like ignition but who knows.

this thing is new, like 4 tanks new. 2008 yfz 350x. it has a small hose off the head that goes into a electrical box of some sort. i assumed it is an overheat sensor????

duh,

i was out on my stock banshee yesterday and was riding it a bit harder than i usually have been (break in period) and it suddenly stalled. The engine felt hotter then normal but not sure of temp. the bike would start up on first kick and idle but would stall if i stab the throttle. if i stabbed the throttle very quickly and it would rev a bit then stab throttle again and again i could get it to rev up normal and then ride it. it behaved like this for about 15 min. once i had the bike moving and ripping it would run fine, as soon as i slowed right down and idled then went to take off it would stall. it is not the same bog as the parking brake. i noticed very little smoke/ no smoke at all and i am running 24:1 so it should be smoking. i got all paranoid thinking i forgot to premix the fuel but i did. i checked. i washed it down and let it sit while eating dinner and took it out and it ran fine and smoked like normal. just before it started acting up i was trying wheelies, for 10 minutes straight, slow little 1st gear wheelies. do these stock carbs not like to be stood up in wheelies and let air in the fuel system or doe the overheat sensor make it act like this? any input is appreciated.

did you happen to check your reeds for frays or cracks? I don't know if stock petals are metal like in watercrafts but if you have install aftermarket reeds and they fray it makes for difficult starting and runs like crap. just a thought.