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Everything posted by mopar1rules
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i believe that snope on here also uses the cornwell unit. there used to be a cornwell tools saleman that drove around my area, but he hasn't been around for years. i have no idea how i would get one and now that i think of it, my bluepoint grinder is the exact same. 2003LimitedBanshee, do you have to use left hand carbides w/this thing? i've been using right hand carbides with this thing and having the cutter end of the cutter, sticking out the side of the spindle w/the collet. now, i see in my cc specialties catalog, that they show a pic of #1mc handpiece, w/left hand cutters, but sticking out the spindle, that's opposite the collet. am i just using the tool wrong? i would think that it should still work properly w/right hand cutters??
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well, got my replacement #1mc handpiece today, and its just as bad as the 1st one. i don't know why the quality of these things is so shitty, but its really got my goat now. the #44 handpiece that i have rocks, as does my new 1/3hp foredom motor, but this #1mc unit, just pisses me off. the spindle bearings are still loose within the bores of the head and can't hold the cutter rigid, so it just keeps chattering all over, when trying to port/work over the transfers, or auxilary exhaust ports. since this is my 2nd one that's junk, i'm assuming all of them are junk and there is no sense on me getting a new replacement, as that one will be just as bad. looks like i'll be going back to my old bluepoint air grinder, or just pay someone else to do my port work.....LOL.
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what is your airbox setup like? stock? pods? what?
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clip on stock needle in middle postiton, 27.5 pilots, 1-1/2 turns on air screws. do a wot check to take a reading of plug color after wot for 6-8 sec. also, do you have k&n pods, or a k&n filter, in the stock airbox, but w/o the lid? if you have pods, start out w/like 320-330 mains and if you have the k&n filter in box w/no lid, then start out @ 310-320 mains.
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ccspecialtygirl, i shipped it back to you today. you must have been the one that i've been speaking to on the phone the last 2 days? did you ship out my new replacement one yet? i can't afford anymore downtime:) the 44 handpiece that i also bought from you, works fine.
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i had similar issues like you last year. turned out i had an air leak, where the boost bottle plugs into the intake boots. check yours out. i had to smear some silicone on that joint, to keep the air leak gone. also, 32.5 pilots sound too big for your mods. i wouldn't see you needing anything higher than 30's. i only needed 27.5 pilots on mine, w/air screws @ 1-1/2 turns. remember too when tuning, if your shee runs better when the air screws are turned in, you need to go fatter w/the pilots, not leaner to 27.5's. the bog you are discribing, sounds like a lean bog. also, are you running stock needles? if so, middle position is fine. mine works the best there.
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well, a new 1mc unit is on the way. they are also reimbursing me for the shipping costs, seeing as it isn't my fault that i got a defective unit.
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this 1mc unit is brand new. never used before. the cutter and collet are tightend w/the wrench and the back of the head is tight as well. i can clearly see the bearing race jiggling around, like the bore in the head is a little too big or something. i put an indicator on it and i come up w/.007" of play, back and forth.....yikes. so far, one of the worst ways i spent $340......LOL. oh yeah, oil is even seeping past the race of the bearing, due to all the slop....yikes again.
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2003LimitedBanshee, on your 1mc handpiece, can you grab onto the cutter that's in the spindle and jiggle it all over the place, like the bearings are out of it? you know, like it will have tons of runout and not want to hold a cutter rigid, while cutting. i just got my handpieces from cc specialties today, and am happy w/the 44t handpiece, as that spindle spins super smooth and seems tight/rigid, but i can't say the same for the 1mc unit. i'm going to call cc specialties now, and see what they say. maybe i got a bad one that made its way thru inspection?? it just seems like the bearings are bad, as you can see the bearing race, just jiggle all over the place.
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you can try flushing the sand out w/gas. if it was mine, i would tear it down to the cases and rise out the crank in a parts washer to be sure that its sand free.
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you need to know first if its a lean bog or a rich bog. that will determine which way to turn air screws. also, what are all the mods done to your banshee and whats your elevation?
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make the airbox lid look like swiss cheese for more airflow and get the stock head shaved .030".
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need 2 find 27.5 jets for stock carbs
mopar1rules replied to banshee whipped's topic in Jetting & Exhaust Forum
marshall distributing -
whoops, i over looked that you had a dune port. i thought your were OEM port. sorry about that. i got to stop reading the questions soo fast....LOL. :biggrin: the thing that sets off a red flag that your pilot circuit is rich, is how you need to crack the throttle a little, which is adding enough air to the mix to start the bike and making what rich pilot settings would be with the throttle slides all the way down, just about gone, cause your throttle slides are up a bit....giving you that more air. just back out the air screws a bit and/or back down the pilots 1 size, like already suggested.
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my mods are very similar to yours, and i'm at 340 mains. i also run 27.5 pilots and stock needles @ stock position. bump your mains to at least 340. your plug chop, i'm assuming was done @ wot?
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carbon techs are good/reliable. i have them and love 'em. great replacement to OEM.
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oh, your talking about the runner.....LOL. i was thinking you were going to move the port window itself. woops.
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about moving the secondary/aux transfer back wall, back even more, to make it wrap around more on the intake side of the piston, might not be a good idea. you'll have to watch out for the ring end gap and ring stop pin, from getting exposed into the port window......i believe. anyone, please correct me if i'm wrong.
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Help with 28MM TM mikuni flatsides
mopar1rules replied to Keyser Soze's topic in Jetting & Exhaust Forum
IMO, the mains are a little small. try 340's. also, try contacting Snope on here, as he has ran those carbs, and has the setup needed. you might have the wrong needles, as i know he changes those. -
sounds like the pilot circuit is a bit rich. maybe lean out the pilot jet 1 size and/or open the air screws a tad. maybe the 33's are a little too big for your motor work, and they are taking away too much off the bottom?
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sorry ccspecialtygirl, but i already have the performance tuning book from A graham bell. i also have the 2-stroke tuning/performance book by gordon jennings. another helpful book. that one has been out of print for a while. thanks anyway.
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no kidding.....LOL. i want to see some pics!! LOL. i ordered the cc specialties 1mc handpiece and 44 handpiece too. i also ordered a brand new foredom 1/3hp motor. i'm fed up w/my $hitty bluepoint 90* air grinder. f###%# tiawan built crap. 2nd one and this one needs to be warrantied too. i knew i should have boughten the good USA stuff the 1st time. i'll let you guys know the tools work out for me.
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i think the stock exhaust duration is like 183*.
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so the double cut burrs, cut alot faster for you than the single cut burrs? i never tried the double cut. maybe i should?
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so how's the home port job coming along? you got it done yet? if so, how does it run?

