mopar1rules

just remember that because its louder or sounds alot different, doesn't mean that its necessarily faster..... :thumbsup:

banman350, try 27.5 pilots and 1-1/2 turns on air screws. hey YA*AM*A*HEAD......welcome to the site bud. how's the shee coming?

you did play w/the exhaust port and anytime you raise it, the exhaust note will change. glad to hear you got it together and fired up. can't wait to hear how it works out for you.

i would suggest running straight 110 as my buddy w/his 19cc domes and 50/50 mix of 93 & 110, couldn't stop the deto, even w/stock timing.

don't torque right away to 20ft-lbs. make sure you "stage" the torques.....meaning start off torquing to 10ft-lbs on all 10 bolts/nuts, then to 15ft-lbs and then finish @ 20ft-lbs.

2003LimitedBanshee, get a chance to play w/those cylinders yet?? i'm real anxious to hear how they work out for you.....LOL.

for both?

for aligning the sleeve, there shouldn't be no pin or anything for true alignment. all alignment is probably done by eye.

diedra, i got your message on my phone and on it you said that you are shipping the 3/32" collet?? i needed a 3/16" collet for the #44 handpiece.....not the 3/32". hopefully you shipped what i wanted, and just called it the wrong size....LOL. also, i didn't want a left hand aluma cut. i wanted a 1/8" cylinderical radius end double cut left hand burr and a 1/8" cylinderical radius end diamond cut left hand burr. so, you don't carry the 1/8" cylinderical radius end double cut left hand burrs?? thanks for being so easy to work w/thru this confusion and such w/the 1mc handpiece. later...

you do have to jet up, to compensate for the denser air @ sea level, but 380 is way to much. you will not need anything over 350 for sure, especially w/no porting.

thanks. i already seen those. these domes are for my buddies quad that i'm fixing and he needs to find the domes for the cheapest buck, cause IMO, this thing isn't worth sticking $hit into....LOL.

i'm looking for some 21cc pro-design domes and stock reed stoppers. please pm me w/what you got.

performance gains will be awesome as already stated. for jetting, start out w/330-340 mains, stock needles w/clip in middle position, 27.5 pilots and 1-1/2 turns on the air screws.

that's as cheesy as those 10-20hp performance chips they have on ebay for your cars.....the chip they end up selling you, is nothing but a .20 resistor. total junk and a scam.

are you asking about the performance gains to be had, or the jetting that you will need to run w/those pipes?

see, i thought he was saying +12 deg w/the timing plate. i don't think there's a plate that can give that much timing?? not to mention, i thought he was running this on nothing more than race gas, where i thought +6 would be plenty. OOPS....

get rid of the +12 timing. no more than +4 needed. for the guy who trail rides on tight trails, where he/she can't get over 4th gear, than i would recommend the +4 timing for that, as it really helps the low-mid, but if you are able to be full out in 5th and 6th gear, than leave the timing stock, as your top end will be what its suppose to be. my $.02.

pm sent

if its a 4-stroke piston, then contact je pistons, as they can make custom 4-stroke pistons, and their quality is awesome too.

having the plug fire as close to TDC as possible, is more of a 2-stroke thing....i believe, as four strokes can have more timing thrown at them, as the piston in a 4-stroke, has another 2 strokes to cool down, and rid some of the heat that was placed into it from the hot timing.

for best top end/over-rev past max hp rpms, its best to have the plug fire, when the piston is as close to TDC as possible. advancing the timing, puts heat into the piston, where as retarded timing puts heat into the pipe. as mentioned earlier, too much timing w/too low of fuel octane, can get you into detonation city quickly. i played w/+4 timing on my shee and did notice a stronger midrange and bottom end, but my top end was considerably down. maybe i was getting some deto on top?? IMO the best thing to have the best of both worlds, meaning top end and bottom end, would be to have a programmable ignition from dynatek. then program a curve for like +4 bottom, +2 mid, and 0 at top end. this way you should have a strong bottom, strong midrange, and a strong top end, that will want to over-rev past max hp revs. i'm sure others will give a different opinion on this. i know on snowmobiles for drag racing, the more you advance the timing, the higher octane fuel you need to run and the shorter the distance the motor will survive wide open. for example a +4 timing key on a sled, might be good for a 660ft run, while a +2 key would be fine for a 1000ft run. i believe this is due to the extra heat created on the advanced spark. more advance = more heat, and we all know heat is a huge enemy of our precious 2-srokes.

now i have an 8 sec video clip of me, showing the slop of the spindle. how do i post this video up here? anyone want to give me there email, and i can email the video over and then maybe you could post it up for me? 2003LimitedBanshee, could you give me your email, so i can email you the video? then you can see what i mean by the spindle slop and then compare what i have going on, to what yours does.

this pic shows how i am trying to use the handpiece....

1st off, don't buy no jet kit......waste of money and they are junk......IMO. start out w/350 mains, stock needles w/clip in middle position, 27.5 pilots, and w/air screws around 1-1/2 turns out. just make sure you are running race gas w/19cc domes and +3 timing.

start out w/320 or 330 mains, stock needles w/clip in middle position, 27.5 pilots, and 1-1/2 turns on air screws.