mopar1rules

sounds like your lean on mains and/or needles. by slowly opening up the throttle, you are able to give it enough fuel in a slower amount of time to run like a raped ape, but when you give it a quick stab, it wants to stall out, cause it can't get enough fuel quickly enough. i would keep upping the mains and maybe even check the float level.

did you check for air leaks on your intake boots, around where your boost bottle plugs in? notorious for that to happen. boots can rip too. mine did. take off intake boots and check for cracks.

how high is his compression? what domes is he running?

brian, i shot you an email.

Ieat4strokes, you are correct. 2slow350 is wrong. higher the octane, the slower the burn and the cooler the burn.

why did he put race gas in his shee in the 1st place? if he doesn't have high compression like 170lbs+, then there is no need for it. you will be losing horsepower! you will probably need to now advance the timing to like +4 to idle and run right. higher octane fuel needs more timing advance to burn the fuel. if he has 150lbs or less, than he should drain the tank and run 93 octane fuel......that's what i would do.

brian, still interested in the crank assembly? haven't heard from you lately.

piston slap is caused by too much piston/cylinder clearance. the only way to fix it is to have it bored out to the next size (freshen and true up the bore), and then having the smallest piston/cylinder clearance that's allowed. for ex...if the piston/cylinder clearance tolerance is .0030-.0045", then you would want to pick .003". see what i mean? smaller bore will yeild less piston/cylinder clearance, so there will be less piston slop and it will be quieter. could have rod or wristpin bearings going south too.

i had a similar issue when i tried running reed spacers. it killed my top end. it would gurgle/stumble and such. removed reed spacers and then it ran great. i hate reed spacers. try taking them out and see what happens.

i've seen the green stuff/sludge you speak of, in engines that ran belray synthetic oil. never w/amsoil. we each have our own pick on oils. i'm going to stick to my amsoil. i tore my buddies top end down on his shee, and his cylinders were all rusty. he ran nothing but that belray stuff. IMO, that stuff is piss poor for rust protection. my shee is always rust free inside, w/a nice layer of oil, coating everything. to each, to his own.... :shrug:

sometimes i can sound confusing in my words....LOL. hard for me to explain what i'm thinking upstairs sometimes. just curious, what were your bad experiences w/amsoil? yep, same w/vehicles, i guess we each have luck w/another brand.

i meant it more towards the guys that have a running shee, w/for example klotz, and then they throw in a tank of amsoil....cause that's all they have at the time and then the motor goes. don't go blaming the amsoil on a that major engine failure, that just all of a sudden happens, when you switch oils for a tank or so. it wasn't from that. the part failed, cause it was a freak thing, and/or it was wore out and or jetting was off for a while, or you had particles/debris down it there, from a previous blow up, that weren't properly cleaned from the engine. when i say some oils provide better oil protection, i mean your engine will get more hrs on it and have less wear on parts during a top end rebuild to freshen up things w/good snythetic oils, versus a cheap wal-mart oil, in which parts would possibly end up measuring w/more wear. understand?? sorry if i'm confussing.

please don't blame a mechanical failure on a oil. no oil, no matter if its wal-marts cheapo oil, isn't going to make a crank just fail. there was a mechanical failure, due to something, else. it wasn't the oil. certain oils will just provide better wear protection, or burn cleaner, etc. oh yeah, i love the smell of the dominator......kinda smells like race gas or something. my engine looks awesome when i tear it down for porting, or whatever. the engines i seen come apart, that ran nothing but klotz (or "klogz") were horrible looking. dirty, milky, and carboned up in the exhaust port. i'll never run that stuff. it does smell good tho.

i always heard that the v-forces were more for mid-top. i know the carbon techs are a low-mid reed, due to their thinner easily flexible state. the v-forces should be thicker and stiffer.

toolman, use your base gaskets. that way you are degreeing it in, w/how the engine would be, during its running state.

here's the review: http://www.atvsource.com/articles/product_...ock_pistons.htm

the intercepter is more aimed for snowmobiles w/power valves. the dominator is going to be the better route for a shee.....IMO. i run amsoil dominator in my modded shee @ 50:1 and love the stuff. i'm not switching to anything else.

polishing isn't the only thing done during a "clean-up" job. polishing is only done on the exhaust port.....BTW.....and doing the polishing itself, won't net ya squat. you will gain more by shaving the stock head .030", than polishing the exhaust ports. you need some actual raising/widening of ports to see a "seat of the pants" gain. normally for "clean-up" port jobs, guys will "knife-edge" their bridge in the intakes, and/or smooth out the step above the intakes. they will also "knife-edge" the bridge for the transfer runners. they might even "blue-print" the motor, which means to match all the ports within the cylinder and to the other cylinder......making sure all main transfer ports roofs are at the same distance from cylinder deck.....making sure all secondary transfer ports roofs are at the same distance from cylinder deck.....making sure all boost ports roofs are at the same distance from cylinder deck.....making sure all exhaust ports roofs are at the same distance from cylinder deck. i'm sure others will chime in and elaborate a little.

looked @ notes, and stock duration is 180*. sorry for the mislead w/183*.

how significantly narrow are you going to make the bridge? if you make it too narrow, that part of the cylinder, can bulge in towards the piston, and can cause the piston to stick. its more to worry about, on the exhaust side, if you had bridged exhaust ports, and you narrowed the bridge down. the exhaust side of the piston is the hottest, and the narrow bridge for sure would bulge into the piston. granted you are working on the intake side, i wouldn't worry as much, but the caution is still there.

amsoil dominator @ 50:1 :thumbsup:

yep, i always leave the needle in the middle clip too. i've tried richening just 1 position and it gets all boggy......go back to stock middle position and bingo.

400ccStroker_shee, did you end up buying the TSR stuff? if not, what did you buy instead? whatever software you got, how does it work for you?

usually when they backfire thru the carbs, the timing is off, but you said he can only rev it up when its on 1/2 choke or so, so that's telling me something is pluged or not set right in the carbs. if he has to have the choke on some to run/rev-up, then its not getting enough fuel thru its other fuel circuits. check carbs again and electrical components...like cdi, coil, etc. how about valve clearances?

i run 340-350 mains. usually 350's, w/27.5 pilots, stock needles on 3rd position and 1-1/2 turns on air screws. was the bottom end hesitant at all? showing a sign of lean pilots? also, i do have a crap crank assembly for you if interested. no extra cases tho. i would be willing to be the farm, that the front end picks up on its own easily.....LOL. no need to even pull back at all, to try and make it come up....right? glad to hear you've had great results so far. nothing more rewarding after 20hrs into a port job, than to have it run sucessfully and strongly. keep up the good work. :thumbsup: now that i have my stock 26's bored to 27.1, my jetting changed a little.....32.5 pilots and 360 mains. needles left alone and i think 1-1/2 to 2 turns on air screws.