mopar1rules

i forgot to mention, that if you have a .035" step cut in the dome and the cylinder deck/bases where uncut, and you were using a base gasket from cometic/wiseco or like moose, your squish clearance should be .050". you clearly don't have that, so i'm willing to bet the farm that the cylinders have been cut.

i run 50:1 w/no troubles. IMO the oil quality plays a large role in how lean of a oil/fuel ratio you can run.

http://www.ccspecialtytool.com/

i can run the figures for you yes. i need: rod length on centers-- rpm that peak hp is produced-- bore-- stroke-- exhaust port opening in deg or mm-- trapped comp ratio or full stroke comp ratio-- squish area ratio-- squish clearance--

upping the jetting will keep the piston cooler during the hotter combusiton temps from the increased compression and increase timing....yes, but that's bandaiding it. if the fuel/air mixture is fine and its rich enough, its foolish IMO to being running it richer from increased timing or compression. anytime you increase the timing or compression, it will increase the combustion process, but will require higher octane fuel to help slow the combusiton process down enough and keep the piston crown cool enough, and to keep deto from occuring. also, sorry, but i didn't see/read fully in your first post that you are running methanol. i would deffinetly check crankcase mating surface for airleaks and cylinder base. also check the intake/reed area out for air leaks. you running a boost bottle? if so, check where they plug into the rubber intake boots, as they leak like a sivv there. just trying to help ya out man.

i'm thinking the previous owner had either the deck of the cylinders, or the bases of them cut 1mm (.040"). the step cut in your domes, i would be willing to bet is like .035". you're like missing .040" of clearance. measure up your cylinders....from the deck to the base w/a caliper. you should get 4.036" or 102.5mm. if your measurement is less, you know the cylinders have been cut for sure. to find out which side has been cut....base or top, measure from the cylinder deck to the top of the exhaust port. you should get 30.5mm for the measurement to the OEM exhaust port. if that measurement is less, the cylinder deck was cut......assuming your porting is OEM. also, if you're more than 30.5mm from the deck to port roof, that would be because you're bored out some and as you bore out your cylinder, the exhaust port will get lower, cause it leaves the cylinder wall at a downward angle. hope this helps. get back to us on the measurements.

like their software for measuring squish velocity?? i think its sucks. not even anywhere close to what my TSR spits out for me.

you don't give more fuel to compensate for more timing. that's just a bandaid. you need higher octane fuel for higher timing advance. also, you may of had a air leak on the right hand cylinder, and then when you advanced the timing another 4 deg, it just compounded and wiped that cylinder out. hole in the center of the piston means timing to high and deto.

that's a bit excessive. 1 min is enough.....IMO & experience. no need to let it idle for 10 min.

i did my own port work. always have and always will. then you can't blame anybody but yourself, if something is wrong, or goes wrong.....LOL. also, i enjoy learning this stuff and tuning/modding my own stuff.

they are stock cages for sure and i'm 99% sure those are carbon techs. also, the black stuff in the intake is leftover paint, from when yamaha painted the cylinders. totally normal. dude, you need to fix your intakes up so they flow better....LOL. i can't stand looking @ those pics....LOL. makes me want to get out my foredom tools and fix it for ya....LOL.

i don't have insurance on mine either. never will. i don't know anybody here that has insurance on their atv's either. i don't have insurance on my snowmobiles or bikes either. i always ride w/my fingers crossed. i just love thinking about all the $ that i saved by not having insurance on these toys.

anything wrong w/the crank? when you say tranny, do you mean the crankcase w/all the gears etc?

you can get the carbon tech petals from parts unlimited. that's where i got mine.

its kinda an opinionated question.....some say its worth it and some don't. mine doesn't run hot so i don't really need one, but it sure would be cool to just swap out to different domes for different comp ratios. its all up to you and your wallet.

here ya go....these will work better for you: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=116608

it wants to die when you hit the throttle, cause the mid-top end is too lean. rejet and try again. let us know what you currently have for jetting and we can help you out further.

word :thumbsup:

you could have your stock head machined/resurfaced, to get it to possibly seal again. you can also try a new gasket.

IMO, i would pass on this purchase. far better shee's out there w/more mods for less $. just my .02.

monster_energy, i sent you an email titled "banshee cylinders".

IMO, the drag pipes on your stock banshee would suck arse. the durations that the drag pipes would require (190*+), aren't close to the stock OEM porting of your cylinders. what is this banshee being used for? trail riding? dunes? also, what is the sole purpose you want drag pipes on this thing? sound cool? look cool? if you don't drag race strictly (and racing your buddies down the field don't count), then you should look into pipes that are oriented to your riding application. example.....trail riding use pro circuits, fmf gnarlys, or fmf fattys or similar.....if dune riding, you can use some LRD's or some upper mid to top pipe, like the CPI's. if you still feel the need to put some drag pipes on your banshee, you will need to rejet for sure and the stock carbs would probably end up being too small, along w/the OEM porting holding you back. i would guess you would need like 33mm+ carbs for draging. hope this helps.

monster_energy06, it won't let me send you any pm's. i don't know what's up w/that. maybe its something w/your settings? also, i understand that the cylinders require a fresh bore.

the specs/measurements i provided, are based off of TDC. i gave him the measurements from the cylinder deck, so it would be easy to set a calipers and scribe the measurement, and then have the duration he's looking for.

normally you would get new OEM cylinders thru your local yamaha dealer, but i believe yamaha doesn't offer/make new cylinders anymore, so you either have to repair your old ones, or find used ones on ebay or something. what's wrong w/your current jugs?