mopar1rules

i personally don't think there will be more than a .005" difference in gasket thickness, between the moose stuff and the wsm stuff.

taking off .030" from the stock head and using moose racing head and base gaskets will yield .050" squish. what base gaskets and head gaskets were you using there "shee rips", to get .035" squish?

from the pics provided, i can tell that the intake bridge has been smoothend out a little and that the bottom of the cylinder sleeve has been cut.

adding silicone to the base gaskets, would hardly net ya .001". also, there for sure has been something done to the cylinders. i gave you measurements to compare yours too, so you could see what exactly was done to your cylinders. not sure why you didn't measure them up yet and post your measurements. measure up your cylinders and report back......the full cylinder height from base to deck and from deck to exhaust port roof.

he's using a cool head.....check out the pics.

race gas is overkill w/your timing and compression. drop down to 93 octane.

so, your bike ran fine before you switched the head domes? what domes did you put in it now? what was on it before this head? are you just using the o-rings w/the cool head domes? if so, good. the reason i ask, is because i've seen and heard of people using the orings w/the stock steel head gasket.....WTF??

what is your elevation and riding temps where you ride? what is your jet needle set at?

maul, just have your stock head shaved for a total of .030" off, so another .010" in your case. your squish should be right @ .050" and the comp is just fine on pump gas. i use 93 octane w/no problems.

my guess is around 135psi + or - 10psi

it will be cheaper, but i find it harder to find some good used cylinders, that aren't bored to at least .060" over already and then those will even require a new bore sometimes, as well as if you resleeve your original cylinders, then you know what you have in the end. if you can find good used cylinders for a good price, and they aren't bored much over stock, then i would scoop them up.

glad to hear it worked out for you snope. now i'm going to have to really start saving up some more $, so i can get a dynatek, and go along w/my plan of my custom curve. you used the dynatek programming software/kit i assume??

exactly... :thumbsup: does he even have a intake bridge left at all?? doesn't look like much from the pics. also, looks like there was some welding done to the outside of the cylinders, by the mounting bolts, in the pic that shows the intakes......cause its all rough on the cylinders outside by mounting bolt.

woody350, where are you located in wisonsin?

are your cpi pipes the small bore (350cc) inframes?

that's exactly what i want to do....make a curve that has like 4-5 deg on the bottom, then taper to like 2-2.5 deg mid and then back to stock advance on top end. i think that would work great, as you should have the best of both worlds.....great bottom, w/a good top end that will want to over-rev, instead of feeling dull/flat.

don't blow it up.....jet it correctly.....feed it good oil....take care of it (let it warm up, etc)...... :thumbsup:

i think the raptors are limited by the OEM rev box to 7800 or so. i could be wrong tho. i know they have big gun rev boxs to add more max rpms.

books say and so do the guys that know their stuff w/these engines. yamaha snowmobiles come w/these reed stuffers stock......that's why they have such great throttle response.

here are the bore sizes..... 64mm (stock) 64.25mm (.010" over) 64.5mm (.020" over) 64.75mm (.030" over) 65mm (.040" over) 65.25mm (.050" over) 65.5mm (.060" over) 65.75mm (.070" over)------****I DON'T BELIEVE WISECO MAKES THIS SIZE PISTON**** 66mm (.080" over) 66.25mm (.090" over) 66.5mm (.100" over) so, you have a good 9 sizes of overbore that you can go up to from stock. your cylinders should last a long time. once OEM sleeves are bored to the max, you can have the cylinders re-sleeved, to bring the cylinder bore size back to 64mm and then you can start all over again.

if i recall from my TSR sheets, .030" off is safe for 91 octane, w/OEM exhaust port. i've got .030" off w/no problems....i'm @ sea level too.

no problem

i'm assuming the head type is "central".....meaning the spark plug is directly in the center of the head?? if so, max squish velocity is 20.9 MSV and that is produced @ 10 deg BTDC. i didn't even see right away that you had said ATDC for 104 deg. i've just been in a daze today. also, i can't get the computer screen to post up....sorry.

forgot to say, that the exh port opening in deg or mm, must be ATDC and minus the deck height. also what is the deck height? give me the deck height and the dimension in mm from the cylinder deck to the exh port roof, and i will do the math/rest of it. i'm @ work right now, but when i get home i'll run your figures.

i'm pretty sure wiseco owns/makes the "hotrods" brand stuff as well as "cometic" gaskets.