mopar1rules

try 27.5 pilots and 330 to 340 mains.

pm'ed ya.

use threebond 1104 (old #) or 1194 (new #). its only $6 bucks a tube and the correct stuff......not to mention that its readily available at most any motorsports shop. i hate using any type of rtv silicone stuff for case sealer and such. IMO, that stuff sucks and doesn't last.

that $hit will buff right out....LOL. nothing a little rubber cement and duck tape can't fix.....LOL. YIKES!!!

no problem. don't mind helping people at all. i'm glad to help to the best of my knowledge. yeah, you probably will be better off putting the other lid on, w/the twin air filter and holes cut in the box lid. i would start in the lower 300's (310 or 320) for mains. 280's will still be small....you gotta give that shee some fuel:) keep stock needles w/clip in the middle position.

i would start out w/320-330 mains and 27.5 (1 up from stock) pilots, w/air screws @ 1-1/2 turns out. also, you might even need to go richer on the pilots w/the pods......maybe 30's then. leave jet needle alone.

the air screws adjust the amount of air that gets mixed into the pilot circuit. it pretty much controls the idle to off idle air mixutre. turning the screws out will lean out the mixutre, and turning them in will richen the mixture. what altitude are you at and what is your elevation? 230 mains sound too lean to me. what pilots you have in there now? you should need 27.5's w/pipes and no air box lid. also, try 1 to 1-1/2 turns out on the air screws, to see if that helps your starting issues. pilot circuit needs to be a little richer to help the starting problems, and turning the air screws in will do just that. also, going to a richer pilot jet will help too. how does the engine respond now, when you rev it up in neutral, and does it want to get real boggy on take off? you need to rev it up pretty good and feather the clutch to take off?

i can mill the head for you. i'm a cnc machinist and have milled my own head and others before. just pm me.

you might want to try taking it to a different mechanic. doesn't sound like that guy is all that knowledgable w/banshees.

start out @ 350 mains, 27.5 pilots, stock needles w/clip in the middle, and air screws @ 1-1/2 turns out from closed.

where do you get the one w/the 45* angles? mine has 90deg angles and its the one that came w/the tors removal kit.

you have stock exhaust? k&n pods or large OEM style k&n filter? what is your riding temps and elevation?

they look similar to the dynoport twins that i had the opportunity to buy.

advancing the timing helps the bottom, but hurts top end over-rev. retarding the timing takes away the bottom-mid hit, but adds to the top-end over rev.

thanks BSHEE400, for the link. it was the same one that i was going to post....LOL. 2003LimitedBanshee is the guy to watch out for. never sent me money like he said he was and he also kept Darthwall's cylinders i guess.

Both will give acceleration gains. Sometimes you only need to widen exhaust to get correct time/area. Sometimes you need to raise as well. Sometimes the blowdown period might be too short and you raise exhaust to increase blowdown time. Raising exhaust will take some bottom end away, but give you more top end. Widening the exhaust will increase mid-top and increase bmep and take nothing to little off the bottom.

Took the chamfer out? The ports need to be chamfered. Especially the exhaust port. Also, start fatter then 220. Go to 250. Also, put timing back to stock and see if top end comes back.

I think I know who you are talking about. That kid is kinda a loser. He said that he was going to send me some money for a crank, but never did. Good thing I never shipped it out. For those books, I got some on amazon. Another good book is the one from gordon jennings. I'll post the link later.

what is your premix ratio? a little taken out of the exhaust port means what? widened? widened on top or bottom? raised? lowered? i can't see you being RICH, on stock 210 mains, and having done to the bike what you have. i would be expecting 240+ mains.

....very true. also, i would recommend the "high performance 2-sroke engine" book from john c. dixon. its a little too much in depth from the start, but makes a great book to read after the a. graham bells book. also, out of the extra boost ports that i've seen, 98% of them were on the bottom corner of the intake ports.

on the 19cc and 21cc pro-design domes that i seen my buddy use, gave squish clearances of .050", w/wiseco/cometic base gaskets.

right. i should have posted that i was talking a stock stroke motor.

most (99%) of the time on exhaust, main transfers, secondary transfers and boost ports, you take material off the top of the roof, to increase the duration (length of time a port is open). i guess there would be some time a guy might take some material off the floor of like an exhaust port.....that would only be if the floor wasn't low enough to begin with, where the piston crown edge was below the port floor @ bdc.

when modding your shee, you'll never need to lean things out. you'll need to richen. +7 timing....yikes!! that's what's really helping to hurt your top end. don't go more than +4. actually, put timing back to stock and run it, and see if your top end comes back....i bet it does. what octane are you running? 210 mains w/no lid is too lean. need to start out @ 240+. i would personally start out @ 260 mains and 27.5 pilots. what are your slightly ported jugs? cleaned up intakes/casting flaws? i never had luck w/reed spacers on a banshee. i would leave them off personally. what is your elevation and riding temps?

probably not. the coolant reserve tank is mounted right behind the airbox and under the seat. if you have the airbox lid off and somehow the coolant tank cap comes off, you could have possibly gotten coolant into the airbox.