Martinm210

WOW! That is pure sickness. I need to wipe the drool off my keyboard! I'd love to see how that RZ powervalve runs...that's awesome!! I've been thinking of a similar project on a smaller scale though. I need something a little bigger for my 6 year old boy, I thought it would be fun to take his little offbrand 110 and start modifying the crap out of it. Maybe some custom arms and swinger to start with, then maybe a bigger motor. I've got a welder, a cutoff saw, and one of those mini lathe/mill combos. It's time to spend some time in the garage!..

check to make sure the stator didn't get all wet and dirty. I just about replaced my stator the other day only to find out all it needed was a good sanding between the base plate and stator. If the OEM can have problems with water/dirt, I'm sure the RS stator can, even more so. Those aftermarket stator covers don't seal very well is what I'm finding..

I just had mine done there, and I can't say enough good about it. I bought a piston/bore kit there through ebay. Mine was a 64.75mm bore that was really worn out. They bored it out to 65.5 and shipped it back with wiesco pro-lites. The work was really good! nice chamfering and my ring gap was perfect throughout. Mine was already ported though, so I can only speak about the bore job. They turned my cylinders around after only having them in hand for probably a day or two before it was back on it's way with a tracking number. I will definitely use them again.

FYI, I figured I'd try one last idea before making my order for an OEM used unit, and it worked. Turns out there was enough corrosion or rust between the stator mounting plate and the stator, that I just wasn't getting a good ground. I took the stator apart and cleaned/sanded all the rust down and put it back together and it worked! Freebee.. After that I spent some extra time sealing up my not so air tight stator cover. Anyhow, if you see a stator problem again, it could just need some cleanup work between the stator plate and the stator. That's all it was for me... Now I can spend a few bucks on upgrades instead of replacing parts..that's good!!

Bummer, and comparing the Ricky Stator to the RMstator product pictures sure does seem they come from the same factory... Here is a Ricky Stator listing picture from the RS site: And the RMstator Ding ding ding...I think we have a match. I guess I'll do some searching for a good OEM. Is it a big deal to buy a newer OEM used stator and simply splice the old 94 plug that I have?

Their ebay feedback looks pretty good. I've been thinking about a use OEM stator too, but considering I have a 94 banshee and the first model stator plug is 87-94, I'm stuck buying a pretty darn old use OEM stator. Having a hard time wanting to buy something used that's potentially getting of age and nearly going to fail just like the one I had, that's why I'm leaning toward a new aftermarket. Are there any recent threads of failures you can point me toward? I did a search, but couldn't really find much on the stator itself. Seems some folks were ok with the CDI box. Not sure, I may just go ahead and run this stator without lights for a while, but I've got another dunes trip in a month and I'd like to have lights for some night run fun..

For whatever reason when I rebuilt my motor, I lost the 12V circuit. Trying to measure 12V on all the wires, the yellow wire coming straight out of the stator when running is not registering anything at all. The black/white wire is reading 7V, but that's one of the CDI box wires, so it appears my 12V circuit is dead. I cleaned up the ground on the stator itself, but still no luck. The bike runs fine other than no lights so I guess the 12V circuit is separate. Anyhow, I spent enough money on the rebuild already and just looking to have a good running bike. Are these RMstator stator's any good. They are pretty low cost compared to OEM, This is just the standard 100 watt version which should work fine for my two 35 watt lights.

Cool, that gives me a number to go by. I will check, just waiting on parts right now. The previous owner just had some hole burning in the piston problems, so I'm always a bit skittish about wondering if my fixes are going to fix it. So far, I found a backward head gasket that was covering about 70% of one transfer port that seemed to indicate one side was getting lean/hot, and I also found what appeared to be a partially failing water pump that I replaced. I also replace the case seals. Since then I had one more break down, but that was my fault for changing the crank and not checking squish. Going to run through the carbs once really well and cross my fingers...hopefully the CDI box isn't the source of the hole buring issues and I've nailed it with this one. This weekend running time per rebuild is getting expensive..:eek:

Cool! I had heard 21s would be fine, but then I read somewhere that you need 22cc's to run pump. My first banshee had a stock head, so this is my first with an aftermarket and domes. I'll just make sure it's fresh 93 pump gas and pull the head again after a short break in as a check.

Now that I just about got my banshee rebuilt for the second time (just waiting for some head o-rings), I was curious about compression. The bike came with 21CC domes and the previous owner ran premium gas in it with success. But...I've recently just had the cylinders bored out and I can already tell that the compression is going to be higher than before with the much improved ring gap. I plan to check out the compression very carefully and was contemplating running some octane boost. But before doing anything, I wanted to get a feel for what was an acceptable compression level for pump gas. Is there a compression limit to where you really need higher the premium octane pump gas? And what about those 104+ octane boost products. Are they safe or any good? Thanks! Martin 1994 Banshee Chozen Perf, 21CC domes +4 Ign Advance Stock Reeds FMF Fatty pipes Ported 65.50mm bore, Weisco Pro-lite pistons. .012" ring gap, .045-.047" squish Hotrods crank

Ring gap should be .010" minimum, but it should be a whole bunch more or it's probably a good indication the bore is worn a bit too much.. FWIW, on my last rebuild I had something like .040" it ran OK until my lack of squish killed both pistons, but the compression was pretty low. Since then I had the cylinders bored and matched, ring gap is now .012". I would do the .006" feeler guage test on one side...that seems like a better means to check. On my bore job, I thought I would be going from 64.75mm to 65.00mm, but I think my bore was soo wore out, the shop had to go clear up to 65.50 to clean it up.

There's really not any good sure method. I've tried flushing with WD-40 on a chainsaw until I thought it was pretty clean, then tore it down to see. It didn't look good, chances are any flushing is just going to flush it into the bearings further. Only real way is to part the cases, but the good news is...you can replace those seals while you're at it. It's good insurance to ensure you don't have a crankcase air leak. Also, the banshee is really easy, no special tools other than a flywheel puller and a 30mm socket. Almost all other case splittings I've done have required heating and pressing of bearings, etc. On those you also need at least and arbor press. Once you've done it once, it only takes a couple of hours to split one.

+1 or you can have a slipped o-ring which will crush the o-ring. I just did this last night and now ordering new o-rings. Careful about the o-ring placement.

The jugs appear to be 102.5mm, so it's not the jugs. I think it's the crank is a special order slightly longer crank. The problem didn't seem to be an issue with the stock crank, so that's got to be it...hard to measure though. I ended up having to go 3 gaskets thick and now have .045 to .047" squish. Like you guys said, the yamabond didn't add up to much of any thickness and with only two I was only at .032-.034" which was too tight for my liking. That extra thick base gasket would have been ideal, but I think these will be ok. They are the thin .015" metal reinforced types and I used yamabond in between the layers. Anyhow, I think it'll be good this time. I have .045" to .047" on squish now. Unfortunately I smashed an o-ring on my head, so I've got a new set of o-rings on order too. It should be here tomorrow then I'll be ready to put the bike back together. Thanks for all the help. My biggest error was rushing things and not measuring and checking. This time I measured and remeasured squish 5 times until I got it right. Ring gap is also measuring a nice tight .012" where previously I think it was well over .030" because the bore was so worn out. I didn't measure compression before, but I will this time.

No, I don't know what was really done before. I bought the bike from a friend, but he bought it pretty much the way it is now with all the work done by the previous owner. The crank was brand new this time, maybe it was one that has a little build in length for extra compression, not sure. I sold off the old crank, so I don't have it to compare to anymore. The new boring is showing much much improved ring gap as well. I think the cylinders were worn enough that I had too much play. Ring gap before was probably .030 before, now it's about .012" with this fresh bore. I tried two gaskets last night and only came up with .030-.034" squish, so I'm still a little short. I didn't use any silicone/liquid type of gasket though, so maybe a good application of some liquid on all the layers will add up a few thousands worth. Regardless, it's odd that even with two of the thinner gaskets that I'm still so tight, there must have been something done to the cyliders, the head, or the crank itself. Something doesn't add up that I need so much base gasket thickness.