mopar1rules

guys, i'm kinda looking for some 17cc domes now too, if the price is right.

guys, i need some 18cc pro-design domes for my shee. i don't want them if they were setup for big bore, or stroker, or blaster pistons, or whatever. i want them just like you would get them from parts unlimited or whatever. anyone got some used ones laying around they don't need? please pm me. thanks.

i thought someone sent you that "port mapper" program a while back, in one of your previos porting posts? if so, start using it and learning about "what mm height changes here", end up doing "there".

it does look very even. whoever did it had a steady hand at least. the "bevel" applied around the ports is very even and consistant. there is alot of room left in there yet for improvement.

you could re-use the gasket, seeing as it didn't tear, but i personally would apply some "hi-tack" to the side of the gasket that will now seal against the reed cage, for insurance against a air leak.

don't need gaskets on both sides of the reed cage, as the rubber intake boot, has a o-ring type lip built into it for sealing against the aluminum reed cage.

extudehoned makes ports look pretty, but that's it. i know of a guy that had his sled cylinders extrudehoned, and he lost hp. he had to bead blast the intake and transfers and then he got back 4hp. bead blasted intake and transfer ports is more than smooth enough, w/just enough texture to atomize the air/fuel mixture. the only port that is safe to polish, is the exhaust.

papasmurf is correct w/the grits. i personally use 80-120 grit on the intakes and 180 grit for the exhaust. i don't polish to a mirror look, as its a waste of time IMO.

he means "rough" as in poor port symmetry, poor port shaping, etc. the intake bridge is starting to get a little narrow IMO. i would have raised before i widened to your extent. you can do alot more w/those intakes.

sure you can build a shee motor to run 110 octane on stock pistons. get some smaller domes or shave the crap outta the head. LOL.

i've done my own port work on all my engines here and a few others for some buddies and others online. you can't tell the most important things tho from a pic. like transfer port durations, roof angles, exh port width, exh port blow down width, etc. but you could see how pretty some peoples work is....

also, what stroker cranks you have for sale and how much? what's the TZ bearing all about?

still have any of the unported cylinders for sale?

you got any 18cc domes for a stock stroke shee and pro design head?

I'm not sure if it would be hard on rings, as the intake window roof, should still be lower than the bottom piston ring. You would otherwise have the piston rings end gap, snaging on the ports instantly And breaking stuff badly. I agree that removing the intake bridge, probably gained little to nothing, over some well worked original windows.

there's a guy on here that goes by the name of "deckheight". he did my buddies cylinders and he knows his stuff. he'll port to your riding style, pipes, etc. what you want, he delivers. i can get you his contact info if you would like. he's located in oregon too.

I thought banshee pistons had 13* crown angle?

179* if zero deck height and 181* if .017" deck height.

i just noticed what pipes you are running, and IMO i think you'll love how it runs. should run well.

dude, just slap those cylinders on and give'er. i don't know why it seems like you don't want to try them out, especially after you spent all the time and $$ on them so far. i couldn't wait to throw them on. it will run alot better than stock.

i'm pretty sure durations alone aren't what dictates a "drag port". you also have to worry about wether all the ports open at the same time, or progressive. also, port roof angles, rear hook angle on secondary transfers, exhaust port roof flat or sweeping arc, and so on.

I would suggest contacting "deckheight" on here and have him port your cylinders. He won't just give you a "money port". He'll set it up for your exact needs/desires. He has worked over some cylinders and heads that some bigger name shops have worked on and has been able to improve upon them, as they were't the best to begin with. Deckheight did my buddies banshee and the powerband it has is exactly what he asked for. It flatout rocks.

well, based off a .017" (.43mm) deck height, and the dimensions you gave, your exhaust port is 179.13* duration, transfers are 122.47* duration, and the boost is 127.87* duration. blow down is 25.63*. pretty low IMO. i would shoot for 30*.

Seems like your exh port hasn't been raised at all, but your transfers and boost have been raised.

uh, if you got a 13deg crown angle on your piston, then you will need like a 14.5 to 15 deg dome angle, especially if running 93 octane. rule of thumb is to have an squish band angle of 1 to 3 deg greater than piston crown angle. if angle is like only 1 deg greater, than be sure to run higher quality fuel. if running 3 deg greater angle, pump gas would be just fine....of course if compression ratio is within pump gas reason.