RadarRacing

As they all said it depends on what piston your motor is using now. If its a blaster piston you are using the banshee piston will be completely wrong. Those two pistons have a different pin to crown height as well as degree dome. With the WSMs also make sure you gap the rings, they might only be 5 to 8 thous, I gap mine .012.

Millennium does probably 80% of peoples cyls. You are somewhat better off sending them a piston with the cyl so they bore it perfect for you to match the clearance with that exact piston. Pistons can vary slightly. I think its about 250 to 300.

I'm not gonna bust your balls and since this is your first post don't take this as anything other than me trying to help but you need to look at your sparkplugs to tell what you have. Plug chops and all that stuff is on this site very easy to find. Learn to read a sparkplug as your first step to learning what jetting you need.

If they are the forged ones they are good. I think they have some cheaper cast ones as well. They are lighter than wisecos, make a little more HP but they do not like detonation from my understanding. I have them in my Nate McCoy built 421 CUB.

Bump for a cool bike and an A+ seller and friend.

Also get a timeframe on how long it will be to have them back. I've seen cyls take 6 mos to get done. That doesn't mean they had 1000 hrs in porting , they just weren't getting done.

There are literally hundreds of stock cyl bikes stock stroke that flat out haul the mail with the right dome, big carbs, pipes etc. I think its like saying a built small block chevy or ford with all the right stuff will not run with any big block motor even stock lincoln or oldsmobile motors we know that's not true.

Where is it located? Is it licensed as a 50 or a 90? FYI. Crank can't be a 54mm stroke probably a 45, or 47,48 still a coolazz bike none the less.those r a blast to ride and ride wheelies on.

I didn't read the posts or whatever you are talking about and I'm not going to look it up. But there's a lot of untuned 4 mil cubs running around that will get their asses kicked badly by a top notch 350 there's no doubt about it. There's some fast 350s stock cyls out there for sure. I don't know if Rockets stuff runs or not. Honestly I've seen as many untuned cubs that didn't really run that well as I have seen fast 350s. There are quite a few.

Mines still over 300lbs by a bit.

What shape are the paddles in? 90% 80,50. Def let me know those sandstars should sell too that's a good deal.

Are the sand skates in good cond? What wheels? I need a set of paddles for my daughters bike will have to drill em for the honda pattern. Any? On shipping cost. Zip 66083.

A shorter tuned length fatter pipe will be louder as well more ping if you will, a pipe sitting on the lower frame rail or exhaust hanger like most CPIs for example as well as many others, rattly kickstarter, higher compression, raised exhaust port, a bike with advanced timing will be quieter and all the other reasons Brandon listed all can make one louder. My 4mil Cub is fairly quiet with my timing and running kinda fat on alky.

Dude its the freakin exact same bike. On a non ported motor I don't think the CPI pipes are gonna be any more HP than your FMFs. CPIs and a 2 into 1 def makes no sense. A topend pipe but a torque/lowend intake setup.

I'd say stator prob or other as well but just a thought 125 deg of transfer duration is 10 degrees or so more than stock, but the 188 degrees of exhaust is not much. With those numbers I would expect it to run a bit richer than it was at 185/115 or stock. If you had 190-192 degrees of exhaust duration it would be better with the trans raised about 10 deg. That shouldnt be that far off but 188/125 is a pretty low blowdown with lots of trans duration and could give you some short circuiting since the exhaust doesnt have much time to scavenge/escape before the transfers open. Who did the porting?

Can it be done. Yes. But you'd take a 392 which has port durations of 194/130 and end up with 198/136 which isn't really what you'd want for transfer duration. It could be lowered but you can easily sell the 392 cyl add a few hundred for a new cyl and it would be a lot better running motor. IMO. Nate Mccoy and Dan Hull can build those 392s into little monsters get it ported and a set of their domes and it'll rock.

Thats good to know. I feel the same way about Kenda Geckos. They suck and feel like they weigh 50 lbs with wheels. I used to like the kenda dune runner straight blades but dont see em anymore, and wonder about the STI sand trax that are about $40 each on rmatv. I need some paddles for my girls Z400 but dont want junk.

Both good guys there. Nate Mccoy is the best there is.

I'd keep the stockers with no Tors too. For under 100 bux get em bored and yes any kind of porting will add a bunch more power than the carbs would. Other good cheaper mods are +4 timing, head milled and rechambered.

You didn't say bore size or what motor size. If you have a 65mm bore stock stroke cub you might have 140-160 psi with 19s. I've ran 18,19,20 cc domes all in a 68 bore cub dynoed those, raced them and I will tell you going from 140 psi to 180 is a big jump in power. There are numerous ways you could read low. Too thick of a base gasket is a common one, poor gauge reading from an auto parts store gauge is another one that's common, engine needs to be warmed up. U Need to use a good snapon gauge if you can and hold the throttle wide open and kick hard a few times on a fully warmed up motor. I rarely use a gauge, I go by my trapped volume measurement.

LMAO @ LARRY. Please

Rebelrock runs 12 paddle rippers on his 4 mil cheetah. That beingsaid it wouldn't be my number one choice. If you found a 9 paddle ripper used they'd be worth trying but I think on that bike I'd run a 10 or 11 paddle extreme in a 21 or 22"

Someday maybe I will have a pretty bike too. Lol. That is sweet kubitza. Mine looks good but needs some powder or paint to make it better, I can't wait to see it on your new coated frame.

110hp/59ftlbs duner with a WCR 1-5 WCR duneable from Andy at M/M atv. Get one I'd hate having to stop to go back down thru the gears. I still don't try to downshift hard or jam 2 or 3 or 4 gears at a time, I downshift, let the clutch out, downshift again, clutch out all while rolling as I slow down.

I love mine and I think they are easy to tune. Camatv chewed me out cuz I still had my needles super rich when he saw and rode my bike. I leaned em out a bit and my 40HVs rock on my 4mil cub.