RadarRacing

Thats my guess too no fuel on that side. Check from gas tank to carb and then carb as well.

Do you have the old 156 mm bolt pattern rear hubs or the newer than 1990 115 mm hubs on your bike? Bansheefreak has a set of hypers he's selling. I believe they are 115mm bolt pattern wheels.

I agree with exactly what was said about sliding. I like regular holeshots a lot better they are just more fun to ride on. Stock YFZ450 and honda 450R tires are great as well if u can get some. The HDs are 6 ply and really heavy.

I use either the penny trick or the rag and an impact. I think the rag wadded up in there has less chance of breakin anything I like it a little better.

I don't know what you have for a motor now but for play riding, duning etc its hard to beat a smaller motor. If you have a 4 mil cub or 7 and are getting beat dragracing then step up to a 10. If not ride someones 350 cub or 4 or 7 mil stock drag cyls or cub and see if you want more. they are all impressive motors when setup right.

Modquads are nice axles. The JJA is nice also. The JJA has better lugnuts but the modquad is about $100-125 cheaper A drilled aluminum axle is actually a difference of about a bike or two drag racing.

You can get new ones for $375 some places on sale. If the rest of it is good you could get a rod for it and about $200 at crankworks to have it fixed might be worth it.Lemme know if u ebay it or something.

If it's a hotrods. I'd give something for it for sure as a spare. I have one with a bad end on it and I'd use the good end on yours or the rod off the good one. You can pm me a price if its reasonable. I've seen messed up ones bring $25 to 40 bux on ebay. I can trade some stock stuff if u need front brakes , hubs , keyswitch ,or handlebar switch, frt tires etc.

I have seen guys adjust their clutch arm with the cable not the pusher. That is wrong and will ruin a clutch in 5 mins.let us know what u find out.

Running rich is a tenth or two as well.

Big bore inframes are tighter yet. My lactrons are at a bad angle I had to pull the header pipes out a lot from the frame to get my powerjet lines away from the pipes. They are good running pipes tho. Worth a little work.

There is no reason that clutch should slip other than maybe oil type or clutch or cable not adjusted correctly. I'm assuming the clutch adjustment at the pusher is right and the lever is pointing at the arrow on the case correctly. Use type "F" ford automatic trans fluid, or gear saver and then make sure you have about 1/8" of gap or freeplay in your clutch lever. Clutch fibers swell up when they get hot and if your clutch lever is adjusted tight with no free play at all it's like you are basically pulling in the clutch lever 1/4" when the fibers get hot and that will make your clutch slip. You should be able to get nickle or quarter between the lever and housing at what would be the pinch point in the lever. I had 2 friends last weekend and 2 this weekend adjust theirs. If you run your bike you should still have a slight gap or slack in the lever with it hot, adjust your cable at the lever adjuster accordingly. My guess is cable adjustment. Hope this helps Radar

Haha. That's why we like these bikes. Newer streetbikes with big carbs or throttle bodies, cams etc have the same feel but a banshee is in a league of its own in feel for an atv. Keep it revved and in the powerband for the most fun out of it.

Probably a +6 then and a 10 paddle extreme since the jocky is light. That's what my buds and I ran for years and had fun dune racing. If you use an 8 over you'll wanna run 11s probably.

Need more info. On alky or out of frames will pull more tire and need more arm. On gas and inframes to play and dune a +6 and 9 or 10 paddles.

I remember back when Alba was selling banshees Z400s and 400EXs with pipes,jetted, graphics etc for just the regular msrp. They at one time had pretty good stuff and had their own pipes, jet kits and even big bore kits then they turned to crap. Its not worth any more than a normal bike but you got a great deal. Enjoy.

Look like polaris snomo carbs by that choke lever. I would guess 34mm as well but u measured them close to 32mm so maybe they are 32s?

I was wondering if that was how Spurdy bloodied up his nose. I guess not. That's such a cool pic.

Short clip. Quality really sux sorry. The wife did it lol. Starring Quaddad as flagger , Me, Zac, Mikebell72 on the Big Raptor are in it. Dont know the rest.

Tim, thanks for loaning me that drill bit. Good to meet Springer and Quaddad who was makin fun of me for running inframes lol. Poor Spurdy that nose will be bruised for a while looks tough tho. We are in spots 128,129,130 for snakehunt if any of you wanna stop by for a pop.

That was a fun trip.Glad to see you guys again and get some racin in. Poor Mike with the KTM had his nephew driving his truck and 5th wheel home for him and he jacknifed east of medford and crashed the back of the cab and broke the back window out. His 5 and 9 year old boys were in the back seat but didn't get hurt luckily. That combined with blowing the whole front of the cylinder out of his buds YFZ450 he borrowed makes for a pretty jacked up trip for him. They stopped in emporia and got a motel and came home today. I think we saw 100 cars in the ditch on I-35 comin home. See yall at snakehunt in 3 weeks.

The one main problem you might have with a 421cub and T5s is those pipes keeping a lot of heat in the combustion chamber. I'd keep the jetting one richer than you might normally on the main and the needle and I wouldn't hotlap it at LS over and over like some do but it should still run well.

If that's a pretty new plug and that's a wide open then shutoff and rolled to a stop with the clutch in then you are putting plenty of color on it. You still need to check the ring down inside. If that was a pretty new plug my guess is you are gonna be a jet or maybe two rich. Without choppin it you can't tell for sure.