RadarRacing

I am not sure of what your prob is but 1. make sure you put pistons in with the windows facing the intake , not the exhaust. 2. Do leakdown test and ck for leaks. 3. Make sure ringgaps were .010-.012 for install 4. Make sure have carbs totally apart and cleaned. 5. Swap sparkplug wires to the other side and see if a problem switches sides. 6. Check pickup gap , flywheel and key placement. Blocking off one sides carb and seeing a change in the other.

You guys probably know it hut with 150-155 mains can run quite a bit longer with a stock petcock than a guy with 165s. In my opinion you are just playing with fire either way and a running a little farther WOT just a little farther can ruin a topend. I have ruined a piston , plating and dome running one out of gas just one single time. It can happen.

I may be wrong but I think the little spring by the shift fork goes on the other end of the fork shaft closest to the shift star not the shifter side. Maybe I am wrong tho. With it like that it may want to jump into gear when revved in N. Bump for some nice cases and parts.

Dont get gheckos , they suck balls. Sandstars work pretty well and skats work very well. Honestly on those bikes the big round knobbies work as well as many paddles do.

Flat sand 12-14paddles , hillshooter 10 or 11s.

Rich on pikot, needle?

I have the diablo on my 07 LBZ. Its a decent out of the box , less expensive tuner. Not saying the others wont make more power but for the mass market and to add hp , fuel economy they are ok. The tests I had read back a few years ago in diesel magazines said to definately NOT tow on any of the higher tunes due to egts getting very hot. I never tow on anything over the tow/haul mode which I think is only +35 hp. Some of the others for my LBZ like superchips , hypertech are supposedly safe to tow in any mode. Even +100hp. Jeff at FAST racing sells tuners if you havent ordered yet and can hekp guide you.

I am kinda with rocket. I would guess coil first , stator second, then cdi. All easy parts to swap out. If it was the other way around cold/hot I would be thinking compression instead too.

10 or 15 years ago we stuck 34mm mikuni flatslides on all our bikes , piped , filters/ ported or non ported and rode the hell out of em at the dunes. All we ran back then was pumpgas. Just leave it alone if it runs fine. IMO

Believe it or not but MAYBE even with the EXACT same jetting the 3s were a little richer and the 4s ran slightly leaner due to the difference in the cages. We will never know. If the jetting was right on the money with the VF4s we probably coulda put a couple tooth larger sprocket on the bike and ran the VF4s and then said that 18tooth sprockets cause detonation and 15s dont. That would be an ignorant statement too. Since info is missing its NOT a reliable test result IMO. I have tuned more than a few bikes in my days and stuffs gotta be exactly equal to prove anything. Trust me , I dont give a shit whether you run any of em. Just givin my 2 cents on that test.

So if 50% of people didnt get screwed then it would be worth it. If you saw 50% negative feedback on an ebay ad , would you buy $2500-6500 in stuff from them?

You can make back to back pulls on a dyno and if the 4s slightly leaned out a bike that had 3s and was a little rich then it could show 5hp or 11hp difference. To show dyno runs and not afr or anything else makes me a non believer in their test. Looking at the overrev on that sheet and the way the 3s look a little dirty up top I would say the 3s were 1/4 to 1/2 a point richer than the 4s on that sheet. VF3 runs can be very smooth just like the 4s and since the pull with the 3s looks a little dirtier then it isn't tuned perfectly. Some will say its because the 4s are better and overrev is better but I say the 3s were ran richer and the overrev falls off hard due to that alone. Skewed/slanted test if you ask me. You coulda added more gear with that VF3 test and loaded the motor more and shown 4 or 5hp increase and a cleaner curve with better overrev. Screw THAT particular dyno sheet.

Im out for this one. Already had a streetbike ride planned and hotel paid for a year ago. You locals will have to race all the michigan boys. I sure had fun with liljockey , wheelman and everybody last year racing. My red 4mil will sit this one out.

20" paddles and a +6 swingarm will lose that race for you. Not enuff tire.

Pasi , those look like power pros to me.

To start an alky bike I always kick it over with the ignition off a few kicks , that will load it a little or prime it slightly. Then kick it over with ignition and hopefully it will start easier for ya.

Welcome to HQ. I see you have your fiirst 6 posts on here with this ad. There are stupid people the world over for sure. It woukd probably benefit you greatly to have a phone number , price etc and keep the stupid comments to a minimum. Someone may actually be interested in your bike.

That looks good by the pics. If you have crisp throttle response and it sounds good the needles may be fine regardless of what they are. I like to chop em at 1/2 throttle and like to see em richer than WOT. They are annoying to ride if rich at mid throttle but dont go quite as lean as WOT. A good brown ring a little wider is fine at half throttle.

I was up at the genoa jamboree a few weeks ago. We rode and had some good racing on friday but saturday was a mudfest and rained bad so we left early. Genoa is a kickass ride spot.

You need much smaller mains probably and start over. .125 is huge. Prolly need like a .118 and you may find much of your tuning problems like needle , pilot go away. If it wont come out of the hole its usually pilot, needle which are effecteda ton by a huge mainjet. Then tune the top from there , start at .118 mainjet and PJs opened up. Then tune pj by plug burn.

Thats good with inframes on gas. If you went back to the dyno and added a degree or two of timing to it you might add a little torque possibly but 94 is good. If you wanted out of frames it would be a little stronger as well if you want oofs. Theres a lotta 421s that dont hit 90 even on alky.

Needing either a complete head , valves , drz springs , aftermarket hotcams for a ltz400 motor for a motor I am putting together. Thought someone might have some of what I need. Thanks, Radar

Any alky on your hand when you have it warmed up and revved to clean it out? Much alky at all and its rich on the needle. Sounds to me like yours are lean on the needle. If it idles high and or takes a few seconds to idle down thats lean on the needle. If you richen the needle clip position to the richest setting (clip all the way down , needle raised) you may need richer needles or need the dump tube drilled bigger. EGL and EGN needles are common alky needles in pwks. If its got CGL, CEL needles those are usually gas needles. I have seen CGL needles work fine on 350s with the dumps drilled but be very lean on a 4 mil, cub , or a motor with quite more timin than say 4 or 5 degrees. Since your carbs are bored can you tell me if there is any air or light showing thru next to the slide. There shouldnt be but I have seen carbs for sale recently like that and they are basically junk if bored too big.

No workie for me either

Lots of people do. If you dragrace the advantages are more power when properly built and less heat. Also alky is quite a bit cheaper per gallon BUt if you are a duner who rides and not drags constantly your fuel usage will be much more. Fuel consumption is going to be close to double the alky usage vs gas.