RadarRacing

You do not tune 5th and or 6th gear by adjusting the airscrews. If it's lean you will melt it pretty quick. You need to look up how to do a plug chop or go up 1-3 jet sizes and see if it is worse. If it is worse then maybe you would be safe going down a jet size from the 280s. Wound out screaming in 5th or 6th is all mainjet and somewhat needle position. It has almost nothing to do with pilot or airscrew. DO A PLUG CHOP , or at least a newer plug wound out hard in 5th and see if it is lean by looking at the plug.

Man , you guys can sure jack up a for sale thread. If his price is too high for ya pm him an offer.

Absolutely , even a dome design with the same Cc size will work differently. You might get 20cc domes from one place that would run completely different than another. One may require a bit more or less fuel depending on design. I am decent on jetting by the seat but ultimately am often off by a couple jets. If it felt rich to you and the plugs looked rich I dont understand why you would go up one jet. 148-160 is probably in the range where you will find most 35pwks on a cub. Dont worry about what others are running for jets unless you are way out of the norm. One builders domes may be fine on jetting and another with a different dome of the same cc may be quite a bit leaner or richer. Needle ,dome , pipe, degrees of timing etc all are a factor in jet size.

SOLD

Packard 40mm HV Alky Lectrons , PE-1 needles , dual feed powerjets , billet bowl stiffeners. These have seats for fuel pump but can be switched to gravity feed, includes mikuni pump. Off my Cub and work very well. Cleaned and ready to run $450, paypal add fees. $450 Pm or text (913)219-584ZERO Thx Todd/Radar

Have a full setup if you end up wanting a whole set. http://sandslingers.com/index.php?/topic/984-40mm-packard-alky-lectrons/#entry12744

If you have a broken rod you should basically do crank , pistons , seals and basically go thru it. A crank will be under $500 add $200-300 approx for pistons and gaskets , seals.

Not getting into an arguement about dome size and octane but rider weight , pipe design and how well the pipe works with your particular port design , how lean and tuned you run your bike , timing , dome design ,even base gasket thickness are all variables that can make a motor detonate or NOT detonate. Off the shelf pro design domes are pretty mild in design. If you get domes from a builder that designs them to higher squish velocity or with a 1/2-1mm wider squish band then they will be much more prone to detonation even if the CC is the same.

I sent him a text linkin him here.

15 psi is over the pressure rating of the cap. They are usually rated 10 psi or 15psi so yours is working fine if it held approx 13psi. I have seen some goofy things like mouse nest built in the pipe do what you are saying. Fuel delivery issue could be from the tank or pingle/shutoff. Make sure fuel pours out the fuel lines well if taken off the carbs, check for a good ground from motor to frame , try different wiring harness , check all plugs in harness. I hope you get it figured out soon , sounds like you have been working very hard on it.

Sorry JDp , I sold em , the thread was so jacked up I didnt wanna bring it back up. I shoulda updated it. SOLD.

^^ Has owned a 535cc cheetah for years. Lol Watchu talkin about WILLIS? Monsters , your cheetahs are fast, they broke?

Unscrew them off the plug wires and go to an auto parts store. They usually have them. Very common power problem caused by plug caps.

Most of the threads on the forums about them have been about their spray paint chinese crap plating peeling off. If you want to pay $1,500 for that same setup buy it from Rob at RDZ and he will tell you it is an "eliminator" cylinder. It will eliminate you from a bunch of your money.

Great write up. I use flux core as well. Some worry about the acid in the flux core but I dont get it everywhere so dont worry about it.

Fix the float issue. It will basically dump fuel and flood , thus the bogging. You should notice it smoking quite a bit out of one pipe , that woukd be the side to check first. Also make sure you have the carbs on the correct side. You do not want to switch them.

Those lectrons springer is selling should be very nice carbs and i know his little cheetah hauled ass with em.

It could be a little low on compression if it warms up and doesnt smoke when warm. If it runs good and you are happy with performance dont worry about it. Otherwise tell us at what throttke position it smokes alot. If its in the midrange lean out the needles a clip or two. That will help.

They are $55 from fast racing. Sandy Josh , no offense but there are ripoff artists on any forum. The chances of a first post selling an item being a ripoff are usually pretty high. Good luck to you but you might try adding to the site in some way first either thru sponsorship or being a constructive member for a while. http://farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=59

I just got some , no trade needed now. Will be putting the 40s up for sale when I pull em off the bike and cleaned up.

Good grief let it rest guys. There is more tire kickers and bitchers on here every day.

Looking for a good set of alky lectrons, would prefer packards setup but other would be considered. I would even swap a set of Packard 40s for a good set of 44s. Might also consider a set of alky pwk 41s. Not wanting to sell the 40s at this time ,thank you

There is no reason you just couldnt block off the one side of the dual pj or even just use the dual pj carb like it is. You are gonna tune each of them slightly different anyway.

I have a good Pro Design Head with studs , no domes included. I would use new orings . Good condition Vforce 3s are mint , no petal wear , very low run time extra set I have. Looking for Vforce2s or even 4s so I have all 3 sets to dyno test. Would also buy a set of nice Vforce 2s