RadarRacing

You will also see drag aarms that put the front wheels +3 or so farther forward. Many of the modded stock frames will stretch the front 4 or 6" or farther on dune bikes and even farther on rigids for track use. We race dunes and dont use wheeli bars and with bigger motors that would need a +12-16 swingarm or longer to not wheelie they just start to not work quite as well as a +6 - 12 front with say a +12 swingarm. The longer front starts to make it hook better more and be more controllable when the bike wants to stand up.

Does it ever sound like your trans is popping? Which is many times your chain popping on the front sprocket as it is kinda trying to climb over and pop off the sprocket. It can do it while riding slow with no load and that would be swingarm alignment. If it does it when you have a load and are accelerating that can be motor tweaking. You can add extra stock washers like the rear motor mount has and add then to the front. I had to get Stellars adjustable bottom motor mount struts. They fixed my problems. $55 well spent.

^^^^ I see that too with wisecos. WSM pistons are great pistons but you really have to make sure you gap the rings , they can have almost no gap. Thats yet another reason I say to start your bike up and run for no more than 30 seconds at least a few times with a full cool down in between. Then 1 minute a few times. You can then do a few short rides. After that ride it like it owes ya money.

Most any gas cub thats rich at all will be a doggy turd. I dont know how rich or lean yours is. I hate riding them if they are a few jets off or the needle is 2 clips rich. They will just suck. At 160 with CEL needles in the middle could it be rich at all?

Thats awesome. Its good there is still a top builder around to build fast stuff. Many of the small builders are goin under and the big ones are doing more 4 strokes or UTV stuff and dont port worth a crap anymore or care.

Ring gap on about any bore size most guys will run is safe to say about .012 It has nothing to do here with piston material type. When you put new rings in a newly honed cylinder you will essentially be filing the outer edge of the rings with the rough surface of the bore. You are also smoothing the rough bore. When you do this it heats up the rings a bunch and makes them longer while they are hot. If there is not enough gap for the rings to expand then they will start pressing on the bore very hard heating them up even more ruining the tension they are supposed to have and worst case and fairly common a ring will snag in the exhaust port ruining your new rebuild , bore , piston etc.

Can you give me a price on the trans plz. It looked like you may have omitted it. You can pm me if you want.

Out the front helps keep the wheels down but doesnt unload all the weight of the bike and rider from the back. It helps quite a bit. Many also move the motor up a few inches. My bike is +12 out the front and +15 out back the way it is designed with the swingarm pivot bolt pushed back an additional 3" in sort of a "V" at the back making the swingarm farther back. I dont know why pics used to work off my phone but they used to.

Keep the fatties IMO. With a dune port it can rip pretty good with any of those pipes but on trails I think you would be just as happy with the fattys as the t5s and the T5s and CPIs wont pull from off the bottom like the fattys will. CPIs will also burn your legs alot more if you hug the tank with your knees or for sure if you are taller with long legs.

You might also check to make sure someone didnt drill the 125 out to make it a 140. I have drilled jets many times when I was needing a bigger one. I always scratched off the numbers but just a thought for ya. If you look thru a 125 and a 140 you can see a size difference. As for which drillbit you need to drill a jet if you ever need to. There are 25.4 mms to the inch and a 140 is a 1.4mm hole So 1 divided by 25.4 = 0.039370079"= 1mm 0.039370079" X 1.4 = 0.055118111" approximate drill bit size.

It would have to be base gasket thickness, I doubt an old crank would give you much difference but maybe . Are you using a different caliper thats maybe off a little? I would definately give Jeff a call. He may say its fine with the serup you have especially if its his domes and base gasket that he knows usually runs fine.

Usually you wanna be real close on jetting before looking for the timing mark. Yours looks like it could add maybe 2 degrees but I wouldnt till you get it tuned closer. Also add fuel and kinda start over if you add timing to any motor. At least from the picks the color change is still not to the bend.

Thats not a correct way to build a motor. You want the fuel air charge going toward the spark not being away. Trinity still does some motors jacked up.

You just need a base gasket .005 thicker , thats no problem unless you wanna ride this weekend.

I would say that is too close if its a gas motor and you make back to back passes with it. You can get away with alot if you stay a little rich or dont get it hot. I have run squish tighter than that on an alky motor with big bore pipes and it didnt build as much heat into the head and piston. If you run tight squish and want to keep it safe make sure to run only maybe 4 degrees of timing. Is it a stock stroke with 19cc domes? What pipes? Gas or alky? Im assuming gas.

Exactly, 35 mm carbs wont result in a sluggish bike or lack of lowend that most would notice much but add the better topend pipes over the t5s and it will rock. I have had t5s , cpis , and shearers as well as stock, 34mm mikunis and 35mm pwks all on the same motor. There was no comparison to the bike with stock carbs and t5s when compared to it with cpis and bigger carbs. Also had all those pipes on a stock stroke cub and the t5s had the least bottomend power and would bog with paddles the cpis and shearers blew right thru.

A hotrods is welded. I am in the minority here but bigger carbs like 33-35mm pwks and betyer pipes like CPIs or Shearers , Rockets would give you a big boost in power everywhere over T5s and stock carbs. I like shearers or cpis and 35mm pwks on trail port motors a ton. At least at the dunes that is a good 450 beater combo. Jeffs dune ports run well setup like that and about +5 on the timing.

$100 CASH for the best light and be hated by everyone all day. Im in for some of that. Hehe.

If you run a bowl dry it will often times cause it to backfire, burn a plug off and as fast as your motor is turning on asphalt motor damage almost immediately unless you let out very quickly. Doesnt really sound like that in your case but possibly. One side will often show a slightly different tune and its probably your left side. It very well could be that you need to shift it because you are running out of useable rpms. I have burned up a pisron in gas bike with pwks and not having billet bowls running on the street for less than an 1/8 mile. Where do you ride/race in KC? I am about 20 miles from KC.

Less than 2 weeks away. Norfolk Neb is where the track is and they keep it smooth and nice for fast times for bikes big and small. Hopefully being the first race of the year in the prairie states we will have some good racing. Some are coming from over 500 miles for this event.

Thats a decent looking bike and there tons of guys on here near NC. A price would help you sell it. Saying you are throwing around the idea of selling or trading it and then no price or phone number is ( ? )you fill in the blank. Be honest....really?

If someone wants a set of Klaws that are close to new on .190 ITPs I have a set I should probably sell since I have about 15 sets of tires and dont need 5 sets for every bike. I used them for grass/dirt drags a few times. The 6 plys are heavy sobs tho. Lol.

You have to have the cylinder torqued down with the base gasket in place to do what he is saying. Otherwise of course you cant to deck, step measurements.

Those wont fit a banshee. They are about 3" too long. Those would fit a honda 450r or suzuki with long shocks.

2 pokes can be done by hand . Dont forget....You usually want to gap the rings first before install. Check and make sure there is about a .012 gap with the rings stuck in the cylinder and not on a piston.