RadarRacing

Av gas is different than many of the regular race fuels. I would start at 180 -185 and you will probably need to work down. Usually the ones I have jetted with 39s have been in the 168-175 range. I like the CEL or CGL needles and on avgas I would try CGL. Jeff at FAST has em in stock usually.

Zillakilla dug up this old ass post from 6 months ago. WTH. Lol.

A serval basically is a dune ported cylinder. Doesnt mean Jeff cant help with porting and domes and gain everywhere. Most servals I have seen did not like much timing and ended up at the smaller size of what normally is ran in a specific carb. So it may like even smaller than the normal 155 jet in 35s. Your yz dirtbike probably also has a 39mm carb not a 35. 39s need to run bigger jets.

Exactly. I know of one 397 cub that ran a 3.89 with bigbore inframes and my 421 setup was with big bore inframes and then out of frames. It is in the dune tv HQ video and I have a bunch showin it was no slouch.

It is $125 shipped. It may not show up right on your Iphone.

Looks like a normal price drop for a sale that hasnt happened yet. Thats a good deal for alky carbs , especially with those bowls. If I needed some right now I would take em.

Thanks Loco. Need studs of course. If needed I can get a set cheap or swapped for a set of stockers for anyone. I also have two sets of low run time orings for it I will include. Still would just use new.

Man , these guys are brutal. Tuned perfectly regardless of mods. To go the farthest , ride conservatively. We have done river runs and had to carry gas with us and the 2 strokes definately burned a ton more gas than the 4 strokes. the banshees with us averaged about 11 miles on a tank.

Two piece banshee coolhead. No domes , will come with used orings, they should be useable but I always use new. Shows normal use and small rubs on the side from CPI inframes, shown in the second picture. Clean , boxed and ready to ship. Good useable condition , cheaper than most on ebay. Paypal accepted gift or include fees. $125 shipped. Thank you Radar

You can do either. Thats why you need to decide what you want. Stock stroke , 4 mil or whatever and get the correct $250 combo of domes and pistons or stock head mod. If you do a 4mil crank there will be a different combo for you.

Chrome will start to blue at about 900-1000+ degrees. Exhaust temps in the safe zone of 1200 or so degrees dont come close to getting the outside of the pipes up to over 900-1000 so you are freakin hot when it blues.

You really need to get with someone who can help you get the right combo. Banahee and blaster pistons are used in different combos. Not being picky with stuff like this makes for poor running motors. Call up a good trusted site sponsor like FAST , Herr, Wildcard, Redline or whoever and get the right pistons and domes from them for your stroke. A 7 mil requires a bit more work and so the drop in 4 mil is usually the good option.

If that one doesnt work out for ya I have a really nice one with the bushings , dogbone and stuff , no bolts tho.

B8es or b9es or the resistor type BR8ES ,BR9ESgapped at .018 as well. Use the resistor type if you have a dyna , otherwise use either R or no R.

Snomo pumpers. You gonna drill em and run alky with a pump they are a good deal.

There is sand drags in Eldorado , riding the river from dodge city all the way into basically colorado. All cool wide sand river with dunes , pits and small hills. We did 85 miles there a few years ago. Camatv may chime in. He rides a few places on rivers I believe. The arkansas as well as kansas rivers are the two rivers in kansas that are publicly useable navigable/ legally travelable rivers as per the state.

Good deal there. I woulda bought that too. Grey ,just fyi it might be set up for a pump by the looks of the floats and the way they are turned and by just seeing one little hole there in the seat. Could be wrong tho.

Windy is the biggest asshole on HQ but this advice is spot on. Take them off and throw them in the nearest dumpster. Biggest pieces of shit ever. I would run flat bald knobbies before gheckos. If you are bound and determined to use them unseat them and grease the beads , then add air till they bead. I have added ridiculous and scary amounts of air to atv tires to seat them.

That crank just pobably either just decided to let go or it may have had one of the cheap ebay cranks we all try to steer clear of. 35mm carbs are plenty big for that 421. If you were a drag only guy then bigger ones would help but just a little at peak. Enjoy your new rebuild and go make some 4 strokes cry.

A dyno run really needed. It isnt going to be a dyno queen. Its a woods type port. I love a good hard pulling 50-65hp bike that starts at 3500 or 4000. Thats one of the reasons I like T5s. Looks like you got momma to spring for a lot of parts at once. That is a lot of parts and turned out sweet.

I threw my gauge in a drawer and never looked at it again 5 years ago. Always measure your squish clearance and CC out the trapped volume with the motor assembled. Generally anything over 160 up to 185 is in the norm depending on the pipes and motor. We could give you tons of answers. I have ran as tight as .034 squish and 12 degrees of timing but only 13.2-1 compression with certain pipes. Probably woulda cranked 140 psi. I have ran .048 squish and 7 degrees of timing and 15.4-1 compression. Probably woulda cranked 175psi. If you have a good builder trust what they say is where they want it setup.

I know where a whole 10 mil cheetah motor is for $1800. Thats override , cases and all with new never ran pistons and brand new domes. I was gonna buy it and part it out just to use the cases and trans but dont think there is any way to get $1,200-1400 for a cheetah topend like there used to be.

By the way. A hotter plug is not necessarily a plug with a hotter spark , ot is how much running heat the sparkplug retains.

Lower number is the hotter plug. Stick with your 8s or even 9s. The R is a resistor plug and is needed with some digital ignitions , not needed with stock.

I have swayed builders to lectrons after they said they didnt make the same power as pwks and they did in fact make the same power. As for the difference in carbs I have found ANY true flatslide such as 34-42mm mikunis or lectrons werent quite as picky with jetting as pwks were. It could be carb size but I doubt it. Mikunis on a gas bike for example will run fairly well a jet or two rich. PWKs or Airstrykers have to be right on the money or the bike will likely bog out of the hole. Might be why a larger builder would just recommend mikunis as they would be easier for customers as well as safer to leave a bike a jet size rich if it will still run 99% as well as jetted perfect or borderline lean. I can usually hop on a bike and tell if it is rich with pwks in 10 seconds , not as easy with mikunis or lectrons. They will sound fine but be a bit rich still when plugs are checked or dyno , AFR checked. Really a selling point for each carb type. Mikunis or Lectrons run ok rich or the fact that it is easier to tell if the pwks are rich by sound and feel to a trained ear/rider.