RadarRacing

All their ads on Egay show a crank thats not a Wang and then BANG crank , looks like wisecos I called East coast about a crank and was obviously given BS so moved on.

Tony just tokd me himself last week that his lesser expensive ($425) crank has the same rods as the wang cranks and in a cub they would have a limited life. He recommended his good crank with good rods and all for $800. At least he was honest and he has a good crank available. Very good guy and I will probably buy more from them in the future.

Use that money elsewhere. Redline has a Christmas special for a billet one for $145.

I thought East Coast sold some type of wang or import cheap crank.

I wouldnt run those rods at all period. Many have ran them and been fine, especially in the under 100hp range but it is still a gamble. Many builders and even some site sponsors were selling them. You could probably get that crank redone with some different rods or just get a new crank for $600-1300 depending on going forged or billet.

Was this one in a black really narrow drag chassis and used to race at LS?

Never heard of melted pistons being fixed by new rings. Usually melts the face of the piston on the exhaust side and sorta smears aluminum across the rings and sticks the rings in the piston. You may not have done any damage at all if the cyls look good. You will have to look at the front side of the pistons. That can also be done by just taking the exhaust off.

I have seen Zachass ride with flip flops or boat shoes and no socks and he had his stator cover off so he could watch his flywheel and see if it got loose. Crazy ass. Lmao

Ballistic if you want lightweight and small. They feel like they are empty.

They r tellin you right. I forgot totally. If any override starts not shifting , especially in the higher gears 3 on up, check for the clutch slipping.

If you didnt have the trans , shift forks out then I would of course suspect the things like shift shaft , eccentric , star , claw like you checked. Since you checked that I woukd also check to make sure a nut , bolt or washer didnt get into the trans somehow.

Probably shift shaft , eccentric replacement would fix it. Total cost maybe $35. These guys are steering you right on.

It is a great crank , thats why he is getting a different one. This one would be fine in YOUR motor tho. Dude , you are gettin hammered merely because this ad is idiotic.

Loco has sat on my bike and felt it, its light for a long suspended bike. I can bunny hop it and get all 4 tires off the ground and bounce it. WTH Loco. Stock tank full of fuel may be 28 lbs , empty maybe 8 lbs. So yeah a tiny 1 gal with only one gallon of alky vs a FULL 3.5gal stock tank would be 15lbs lighter.

What 232lb dry weight looks like. Has somewhat heavy front tires and wheels , silenced pipes , big torchworks radiator and , rippers. With s shorter swinger , lighter front tires , radiator could be in the teens.

Yeah small bore , reguler/small flange and for low pumpgas set timing to +4. CPI's work very well on them and will be forgiving if you shift a little early. Shearers will have a slight edge up top. I liked both pipes on both my cubs honestly.

Vitos cranks were also not known for reliability and had about a $550 pricetag back then I believe. If this isnt a vitos and has good rods I would be interested in it. But not for anything near $800

No. I picked up everywhere on my stock stroke with CPIs , then later switched to Shearers and picked up a bit more topend. Ditch the T5s they dont give a cub bottomend. Depending on fuel you will pickup quite a bit of bottomend by adding timing as well. SScubs with shearers on gas will do fine with +5 or so and the power will stay with you after numerous runs or hills. The T5s will suck balls after one or two passes due to heat in the pipe.

Probably the carbon bar ktm was my bud Floorinit's ktm. Him and a couple other buds have carbon fiber wrapped Ti stems and run carbon fiber mountainbike handlebars. Mentz's bike weighs a shitload less than 220lbs. That bike I bet weighs 170lbs. My single Aarm dune bike with big front tires for rough sand, +12 out front and +15 out back , with Rippers weighs 235lbs dry and it has an oversize torchworks radiator. It is expensive to get a stock frame to the 230lb range but it is totally possible.

That looks real close to me. If anything I would go up one or two and see if iit hurts rideability and if not I would run it a tad richer. If that bike has T5s it may not get out of the hole good with it very rich.

You havent said what motor or hp range. Those would be too much for a gas 350 but with a motor over 90hp or so you should be just fine.

As for your question about a longer swinger making you lose HP the answer is it WILL slow you down if the added length makes you have to run much larger tires than needed for your HP level. Same as with sand. Guys I know with approx 90-115 hp run a +10 on asphalt and American Racer 20x8x10 SD23 compound tires. If you are running a less sticky tire you may spin like crazy with a +10. Hope that is of some help to you. Radar

Also put your location in your profile. If anyone is close to you maybe they could help you out or we could recommend someone. You could also run some purge gas in it , if it sounds good then you may know your ignition is good.

I have not seen it but it could be possible with an intake with the crossover to have vacuum etc from one side make a difference and affect the other side. There has to be something not together right or ignition not grounded or something. Confirm that you have good alky alky will pour out of your pingle Alky will pour thru your carbs All jets are clean , drilled , flow fuel. Have you for sure confirmed that the piston windows arent facing the exhaust? I just keep asking that because that has happened many times and had symptoms such as yours right after a rebuild.

Start at 1.5 turns out.