RadarRacing

Every DM is a custom build. Its not a bolt on and ride motor. It could be someone upgraded a cheetah to a DM cylinder or who knows used a 14 mil on an 18 mil cases and crank. They may have got the lower end for a different motor with a rod length different than what worked with that cylinder. I think too many people worry about spacer plates. You didnt say whether it is stock cases or billet. Spacer plates are sometimes used on stock case big DMs because it provides a good flat base for the cyls due to all the case work. I know of two just like that on stock cases. .060 is not too loose for squish on a DM. I dont know what exactly you have a cheetah or a DM , you said "cheetah DM". I would neither worry about the spacer nor the .060 squish which is fine. I would definately do a leak down test before you ride it and then do one again after a ride because air leaks are at times common on welded/epoxied cases.

Exactly like he said ^ ^ . If you hear something from the left side then some things to check would be Exhaust spring or exhaust rattling , pipe hanger rattling Flywheel , pickup hitting Flywheel rattling Something like circlip , broken ring loose inside motor. If you would fill out your profile you might have someone close to you that can help you.

^ ^ Im with fouled. Those pipes used to be one of the best inframe drag pipes on ported bikes years ago and they cut an inch out of em. I would keep the timing lower than normal maybe. Like 3 or 4 degrees max.

Just making sure you know they arent talking about the mainjet size stamped on the jet. It will be a drilled jet drilled out to a size .116 drillbit. The dumptube would also be drilled out. If its rich on the middle clip why is it still on the middle clip and not leaned out? You havent said whether its rich up top or on the needle.

If you wanted to purge it you should be fine, it will probably be hard to keep running on gas/oil. If they run away you can cover the carbs, pull the carbs out of the boot if they arent in crazy tight , also they will usually die if you crack the throttle wide open.

A hillshooter is for dune racing because it gets rough and whooped and is a suspended frame. A rigid chassis can be lighter as well as lower, better setup if needed and will hook harder out of the hole. As an example an 85hp 350 may be in a chassis thats +20 out the front and +6 out the back with a wheelie bar with a total weight of maybe 225lbs sometimes and run very quick times for the motor size. That 85hp rigid could give a 120hp dune bike with no wheeliebar a whoopin on a smooth 300' track. But that +20/+6 cant race dunes at all. The whole setup can be different on those two bikes as well. Gearing, tires , how lean they are tuned, timing, compression etc. You can get away with more if you are only doing it for 3.8 seconds.

^ ^ I disagree with everybody up above. If you have a stock motor with stock pipes now and no other real mods such as a cub, serval etc. and want low end for trail riding then I would recommend any of the popular normal pipes such as FMF fatties , Pro Circuits , Toomeys , Turners or any other inframes besides the drag pipes. I would take a trail bike with the smaller pipes any day. It will be more fun to ride, wont burn your legs and honestly make a bike much faster if you ride trails or do MX type riding but still have rollon power. Any set of pipes will give you much more topend power for playing and dragging 300'. If you want a set to grow into like do a cub later then just start with the bigger pipes.

You better get a sxs or somethin. Gonna miss seeing you on our L.S. trips.

Also , if you have skinny little 17 or 18" front tires it will ride much differently than with larger tires.

Its not necessarily just that its a single aarm. My single aarm is a cadillac on whoops whether accelerating or decelerating. Not saying its completely right but on a single aarm if your shaws are soft at all on either a stock frame or chassis its like riding a 3 wheeler. You literally have to steer to keep the bike upright , add bumps and short travel with drag arms or shaws and they suck bad. Phelps that pic makes sense even if its done in crayon. Haha.

Many auto hauges will read very low on a quad. He may just not have read the comp that it really has. If it starts easy at all it does NOT have 60 lbs of compression. To check compression you need to have the motor warmed up and hold the throttle wide open and kick it over like hell. 60lbs wont start in my opinion unless you were to pull start it. You can kick them over by hand on the kicker if they get under 100. If plating is good on a cub you just stick new rings or two new pistons in em. That plating wears very little. Its tough stuff.

Thats good. Many gaskets will torque down to different thicknesses. Some .020 gaskets will only end up at like .015.

On a 611 DM just run all of them. On my cub I pull one out every other slot but on any bigger motor I would just run em all. The way it is designed it wont hold ya back any to run all of them. I really like that lockup.

The lid makes a little power difference in your case but mostly just a huge difference in the amount of vacuum which draws fuel thru the carb jets.

Does anyone know if this stuff is for sale still? I sent him a pm and no answer but he is getting on the site regularly??

Yes theres tons of them on huge high Hp bikes. They will hold a lot of power.

I dunno where you got those carbs but I think 360 is much bigger than what we ran in 34mm flatslides. Talk to Jeff at FAST if you want but if I remember right 250 or 260 mains were what 34mm flatslides. As far as it not idling down that may be the slides not going all the way down.

Is $400 shipped on the bar and swingarm? What kinda wheel on the back? Is it adjustable?

Drag ported cylinders are really gonn have a big loss in torque on pumpgas. I dont see where if the 250 has a stock swingarm how he would beat you. Use the studded tires and even with stock gearing 14/41 it should run over 80 mph and you wont be doing 80 in 300 feet with your bike. The only thing I really see wrong with your setup is the +6 swingarm is too long for hard pack but either of your tire sets should bite well enough to do well. Alky is NOT as much gain as you stated. It is usually said to be as much as 10% gain.

Oops I meant Gigot Performance. The slingshot works and releases really well with an easy clutch pull.

The slingshot is the best. It will hold even huge HP without much weight and yes it replaces the pressure plate on some models. I would call gogot Performance direct and ask Kevin.

Speedracer I have a 38-40mm billet one piece intake from fast that was rode maybe 2 or 3 times and motor was changed up , the intake is like new. $100 shipped and its yours. I have been thinning out my spares. It fits stock or cub cyls if thats what you want.

Dammit. I want one to convert to alky for my 400 polaris so I can burn old alky up. Lol

If you dont have the extra half washers in the front get them and put them in the front mounts. They come stock only in the rear bolt.

I have a pro design thats polished not black if youd be interested.