RadarRacing

Ok, What I am talking about here is only when starting the bike NOT riding it. As far as the mainjets completely disregard what number is on them. They are probably drilled larger than whats stamped on them. They are probably closer to a size 300-380. If it is blowing alky out the pipes when you try to rev it off idle then lean the needles out. Sounds like you need to lean them out quite a bit. If you get better but not perfect go down a size or two smaller on mainjet. (smaller compared to numbered drill bits NOT stamped number) and try it. When you go to a smaller mainjet you might want to richen the needle back up to check when you start it so it isnt too lean. In my opinion you arent going to hurt anything by starting and revving the bike with it a bit lean unless it screams and blows. If it is lean it will idle cray high and free rev at like 10,000 rpms. To stop it either jam it in gear with the rear brake on or crack the throttle open quickly to kill it. Heres my chart on needle setting If it blows CLEAR COLD WET alky on your hand ITS RICH If it blows SOMEWHAT BROWNISH, COLD alky on your hand it is RICH BUT CLOSE IF it blows VERY WARM, BROWN SPECKLED exhaust on your hand. ITS JUST RIGHT You will notice much better throttle response with the needles set correctly. Then turn the powerjets wide open to start hard throttle passes and lean down the PJs as needed. I hope that helps and keeps you safely from out of tune to good. Radar

You can probably swap em for some 33-35mm carbs. If you wana try them again crank the timing up to like 7 and it will make it much easier to tune those carbs. If it doesnt have much added compression over stock it will be much easier to tune with timing.

Keep me out of the bashing , I hate that shit. I definately would love to see less of it. The cost of case work isnt just the work. There is also builders that once parts are in their hands can take 3-12 months to do normal stupid jobs like porting cyls , case work etc. There is also the chance that stuff gets damaged in shipping. I hate shipping stuff. I have trenched many sets of single cyl cases by basically junking a bad stock crank and using the webs with no rod to make a tool to hold a cutting bit and using it very similar to a boreing bar. Is it redneck..hell yeah it is but the work is perfect and cost me nothing other than my time. I see no reason why it could not be done on twin cases if you either used a crank web or made a tool to fit in some crank bearings and just did one side at a time. I use a lathe but it would be possible to use a hand drill and just cut a couple thousandths at a time.

Man , you are changing stuff that does not effect bottom end trying to cure a bottomend problem. When the bike is warmed up and idling and you crack the throttle open to try to rev the bike up what does it do? If it dies or stalls it is probably lean on pilot or needle down low If it smokes quite a bit but goes ahead and boggs a bit but cleans up and then revs nice then it could be rich down low. (Pilot or needle) Are you running a single 38mm or two? If you have two then tuning will be a little more difficult on a lightly modified bike.

Good guy to deal with and these carbs hauled balls on his cheetah. That is a good price for good alky lectrons.

It really depends on your motor , timing , dome , porting etc. Topend pipes stuff the fuel air mixture back into the cylinders more at upper rpms and maybe less so in the midrange. Thats why it is necessary to check plugchops with a pipe swap. Make sure you check half throttle as well as full throttle totally wound out. It could be richer or leaner and definately make sure it isnt lean at part throttle and rpms to be safe.

Sent ya a pm suckah.

Flex seal should work fine , maybe you need to spray it in the carbs while it is running so it can coat the inside of the cases good. Then do the outside.

I was quoting the guy that said he would take them. If I needed a set for a +6 or +8 duner I would be on those tho. Dont see em that often. GLWS.

This exact tire is my favorite for a +6 duner and will work for a +8 in heavy sand or track. Good luck with your sale. Why the hell would you post this and not buy them? " ill take them as soon you pm me your paypal" Freakin stupid.

If you just want it fixed and do the work then assuming you have checked jetting etc. 1. check squish 2. Check for air leaks 3. CC the volume in each side with the piston at TDC If those check out and compression does not seem to high , squish too tight , not more than 4 or 5 degrees of timing. 4. Check flywheel and key alignment. 5. If it has a dyna cdi it advances the timing 4degrees PLUS what is on the plate , back it to ZERO 6. Start over with known good fuel

Go to an hq ride , you will see some good stuff. Atoka oklahomas track just opened up for the year. There is some stout stuff that runs there.

You might pm him since this thread is a couple weeks old. I would guess since he wants to swap for smallbores his would be small flange. I got a set of pipes from lesnant a while back and he is a good dude , shipped well and fast.

Lol. I dunno. I just run plain old race car alky with some upper cyl lube , then add my oil.

I honestly dont see why there should ever be a clean up port. Drag ported will see a bit of gain but so will many other things that you dont have to unbolt and send your cyl off to do. If you dont have big carbs , shearers or cpis , drag axle then do all that first. A drag axle is a big gain. If you have everything go for a drag port.

One or more pistons put in with the windows facing the exhaust , not the intake? They will start and not rev and spit like hell out the pipes.

It is not the size of carbs that will lean a motor out. Properly jetted carbs flow the proper amount of fuel for the amount of air passing thru. You could use them and have no problems whatsoever as long as they are jetted correctly. 36/38s work very well on stock-4mil motors. You may gain a bit of hp by going a bit bigger on carb size but they wont hold you back much from 39-40mm carbs.

99micheal bracket racing will have all sorts of bikes from mild to wild , from stock 400ex's and polaris utilities to full on dragbikes. The way the timers are any bike regardless of quickness can win and everything is evened out.

You wont lose all that much , even 2 hp might be high. To port match with a dremel or air tool and a carbide or cartridge roll use a cub base gasket and a sharpie and mark the material on the top case with the crank out and carefully remove the material. I usually try to go down most of the way to the pocket in the cases and make it both smooth and have a clean transition. You dont really want to remove any more case material than needed to match the gasket and blent the case well to the cylinder.

Sounds like the needles might have been quite lean and the rest sounds like a burndown. I am sure the pull starting couldnt have helped it.

100 lbs makes a huge difference. It is sort of a sliding scale like they said where a slow bike will see more gain than a bike already running good times. Same with HP a 10hp difference on a 50hp bike is huge but 10hp on a bike making 110 already will be just a tad quicker. I see plenty of heavy bikes that are quick as hell.

Cam you are full of poo about your HP number. Lol. I was there but I will keep your secret safe. That thing is making good power. I dont know why anyone would think that a cheetah casting couldnt make as much power as a cub. I know of a 485 cheetah that made 108hp on gas and had power everywhere. Dont think for a second just cuz you havent seen a good cheetah that they arent out there. I havent seen many 421s run with cams cheetah. It runs very well. Here is a vid of his black cheetah and my red 421 cub racin a pack of cubs and much bigger DMs.

Trinity actually does ok stock cyls , not great but ok and just sells off the shelf domes for them. Dont ask me why they sell crappy combos for their $4000 engine kits. Makes no sense. If you want your cyls ported sometime this year then redline , herr juggs , wildcard would be my recommended calls. They get stuff done in just a couple weeks.

Shearers. More power , dont burn your legs as much. I have ridden bikes back to back with each pipes and shearers always were faster especially in a 300+ foot run.

We cant pull nearly that kinda tire atthunder valley. That would bog even some good running bikes where we race. Even bikes pullin 3.80s. Ours is wet heavy sand with dirt.