rubberneck

I mounted my CDI and voltage regulator in the same position as fouledout 421. I welded a bracket to the frame before finishing, but you could do just like he did. It comes out clean, and you cant tell its there unless you look from underneath. really cleans things up.

If those unused overrides are duneable, consider 1 of them sold. I sent you a pm. thanks Phil

Exactly my experience.

Bump for you, Im looking for a duneable. thanks

Is this a duneable or traditional?? Is it neutral down. thanks

Yep, sure can. I modify mine on a bridgeport with a rotary table and can get 5 degrees advance. If you take your time and do it carefull, you can do it with a dremel tool.

Dude, that site kicks ass man, thanks for the info

Cool, that will be a fun combo. I have heard good things about the DDP's Take it easy with the right foot untill you do a full built trans or its going to shit the bed on you. LOL I think i mentioned it before, but are you going to O-ring the head on that thing?

My advice is dont go. It will spoil the shit out of you. After you ride Glamis, everything else sucks balls :biggrin:

Bump for a cool dude :biggrin:

Dinner, Suncoast is good people. I have a buddy that has had great luck with their stuff. That is probably where i would go if i had a slush box trans. You will like the 71 for hotrodding, not so much if you are towing heavy especially in the hills. Get yourself some nice big EDMS, a smarty and fueling box and that thing will haul ass. Oh yeah, you might want to o-ring the head if you are going to jack the boost above 50-60 psi too often.

Jeff from FAST has a pretty bad ass DMAX

Best I have ever run is mid 14 sec 1/4 mile, but the truck is a 6 speed and weighs 8600 lbs. Similar set up in an automatic truck around 6500 lbs will go deep deep into the 12s. Dinner, no nothing new, i have actually detuned the hell out of her. Been doing a bunch of towing and the big turbo really kills the towing performance. Just cant keep the boost up and the EGT goes nuts. Currently have 80hp injectors, smarty, and stock HX35 turbo. In the pic, I was running B1 with 160hp EDMs and smarty stacked with drag comp. I would usually see 53-54 lbs of boost on a hard run. Lots of fun, but I need to be a truck now and not a sports car. Cant have it all.

2001 Dodge Cummins with 1 or 2 mods A little bit of fuel and a little bit of boost.

My 421 Cub with 20cc domes at sea level pushed 185-190 PSI depending on the tester. Yes you need to check squish and compression, but im betting the farm, you will NOt be able to run pump gas on that motor. I would stay with the 110. If you do the math on that combinaton the uncorrected compression is about 14:1 too high for pump.

ASR is a piece of shit company. They are worthless if you have a problem that is out of the norm. They strung me along for months on a swingarm problem. I finally got in touch with Fireball racing (I found out they make the swingers for ASR) We were able to get the issues resolved. Fuck ASR assholes.

Let me give you a little advice. ASR is a shitty company do not deal with them. Fireball racing makes their swingarms. Cut ASR out of the Loop and go straight to Fireball to get the swinger. ONce you go to a roundhouse swinger, you will never go back. Makes chain adjustments a snap and you get more adjustment out of it.

LOL, thats the funniest most true thing ive heard on herE in a while. Yo BANSH. Im one obsessive mofo. I change hobbies as often as i change underwear. But damn man, you are making me feel like and underachiever LOL. Good luck on the sale. :biggrin:

Believe me, i understand wanting to save some cash and get the most you can with what you want. That said, I dont think i would base my port guy based on the cheapest price. If done wrong, the bike could very easily run worse and make less power than stock. Read through some posts on here you will see lots of names. Call them and see what they say. List off the top of my head in no special order. FAST, K&T, passion, herrjuggs, A&S, Nate Mccoy, LC performance, flotec, redline, white knuckle the list goes on and on. Cheapest isn't always the way to go

LOL I like that. I think im going to pick the nology up also when i get things back together

Arent the 87 warrior front balljoints threaded so they can be replaced? I think that is what some of the arm makers use. Plus they go right in the banshee spindles.

Damn, i thought i was crazy with only a +2 arm. Hope you are good at wheelies. LOL

Cool man, post some times. What does a bike like yours run in the 1/4? We have a 1/4 mile track not too far from my house, but i dont know if they let you run quads. I think it would be fun. What safety gear do you need to have. Are you required to wear leathers?

Ah shit man, i had a cascade stainless bolt kit for the clutch and stator covers. I should have thrown them in the box with the fullbore. It was only a dollar more to ship that thing fed ex, so i said what the heck. You should have it thursday. Later Phil

Sorry for the slow response Lowbuck. I didn't forget about you man. I finally found a box big enough to put the fullboar hood in. It is boxed and ready to go. Going to try to get to UPS today. Like i said, I believe it will be perfect concidering that it will be painted. No deep scratches or cracks/bends. If for some reason it doesn't fit the bill, sell it and put the cash towards the bike or trade it off. Wont hurt my feelings at all. later Phil