rubberneck

wesw, bansh-eman runs an 8 plate set up. I just saw in another post where he was saying he couldn't rely on the arrows with that set up. I believe he said he runs the adjuster all the way in until he can just feel it contact the rod and then backs it off a 1/4 turn. you might pm him for the exact details and procedure he uses.

As far as which is faster, the new camaro or new challenger, i could give a rats ass. I dont street race. (too many tickets will learn you on that) If i was going to build something for running the quarter it sure as shit wouldn't be a new car anyway. I'd love to build a 66 nova with a turbocharged small block. maybe someday. Anyway, I just dont like the way the pics of the new camaro look. Maybe in person i will like it. I dig the challenger though

Very true. If i was into drag racing only, i would absolutely buy an auto for all the reasons mentioned here. I just like a manual period. I think they are more fun in a car, and in a truck, well lets just say, ill tow against any auto truck anyday. Sticks kick ass when the loads get heavy.

LOL mine too. ugliest damn things ever. Now its black and white soon to be all black baby

Yes, I bought the polished one. it is pretty good, although i did not like any of the rear suspension pivot bolts and did not use them. They are threaded too far and not shouldered like the stockers. Suspension was an area i didnt feel good about changing the stock fasteners. If you have a highly modified bike you will end up with a shit ton of bolts you wont use from the kit. Now one word of advice. Use loctite or some other thread lubricant on ALL stainless fasteners or you are asking for stripped/gualled/broken mess. I use red on suspension bolts (stock and the few stainless ones i did use) and blue on all the other 10 and 8 mm bolts. On the 6mm and smaller i used purple. this provides lubrication while tightening things and keeps them from gauling plus keeps things tight. However you will still be able to remove them later on with the various strengths used the way i described. Caution, you do not need to tighten things as tight when using the loctite, follow the torque specs that come with the bolts and you will be good to go.

I drive by the dodge dealer every morning on my way home from work. It is taking every ounce of will power i have to not stop in and drive off with the challenger they have had sitting out there for the last several weeks. As far as power plant and trans goes. My personal rule is always buy the biggest motor they have available and alway get a manual if it is available, no matter what im buying, but everybody has their opinions.

I run the cover and no lockup just for this reason. Tip the bike up, pull out the allen head bolts and replace the clutch. Dont even have to drain the fluid. I carry a spare clutch with me and with the cover changing is a breeze.

Mine does about 62-65 for about 400miles at a time. Then i unload it run it up to mach 9.6 scare the shit out of myself, park it, drink beer, then it goes about 62-65 for another 400miles. Get home fix all the shit i broke, repeat

Yeah, ive heard good things about sandtoyz. Still wanting an arm i can dune with. I need to get the motor back together and then i will address the arm. I have been working a shit ton and cant seem to get anything finished lately I was supposed to be leaving for a week at dumont on the 26th, but work and no time to fix bike screwed that plan.

To be perfectly honest, i got the same gut feeling. Thats why when he started promising me he would/could do this and that to make my swinger right, i just machined it myself and said fuck it. I was running out of time and had spent a ton of time trying to get it resolved. For what i spent, i shouldn't have had to modify anything, but what are you going to do. I really dont know where to go for another swinger, but if you are going to consider janssen/ASR, you may as well go to the source. I want to get a 6" arm, but dont know where to turn. Right now time is one thing i dont have, but Im about ready to just build it myself. I have a new miller dynasty 350 calling my name telling me i need to learn to use it anyway.

Its the fireball in prather cali. Actually I know they make the jansens cause roger the owner of fireball told me. Same guys that built the hillbilly turbo busa banshee famous from youtube. There stuff is nice although i went round and round with them on a swinger issue i had. i finally gave up on them and put it in the bridgeport to make things align properly. Roger was cool about everything though really. Just some strange stuff i guess. I dont really hear about any problems with their stuff. Their a-arms are nice units. Much nicer than some of the others out there i have seen. FWIW, if you guys are considering the janssen, i would just go straight to fireball and get it from them.. They do seem like they care if you do have an issue. just my .02 http://www.fireball-racing.com/

I believe the janssen swingers are made by fireball racing

You could use a cable off of and ATC 250R. or fourtrax 250r they had either PJs or pwks i believe and thumb throttles.

More than 10k less than 20k. I dont know, I quit counting.

Got the paddles today chad. Thanks man. Super fast shipping paddles exactly as described. thanks man. Phil

Hey man, you have any pics of this. It sounds interesting. I put 450 front calipers on my banshee and it helped a lot, but more brakes is always a good thing.

Half way in to my 11 get off at 0700. somebodys got to do it.

Oof, ouch, that hurts. Why wouldn't he stand behind it? That doesn't seem like an issue that could be the result of abuse i would think, unless you got super crazy with an impact or something. I would think he could look at the fracture and be able to tell that. I blew apart an billet injector tip on my hot rod cummins. They were able to look at the broken tip under magnification and could tell that there was an impurity in the original blank that caused the failure. My guess is the same thing caused your problem. Oh well what do they always say. "no warranty on racing parts" still sucks though.

Austin, Im going to buy up the whole HQ 1 part at a time. LOL. Oh yeah, Money sent.

Sold Pm sent. you want a check or paypal? Call me, or PM me. Im working nightsl, so ill be sleeping after 9 this am. Hit me up, i need another set of paddles and wanted something a little shorter than my 22/11s

Nope, never, I have a rule that i dont even sit on a running bike without a helmet. i have crashed hard 2 times in my life. Both times in oregon. HMMM maybe i should stay out of oregon LOL. I broke a helmet the first time i hit so hard. Walked away without more than a whole bunch of bruises. Any way, helmet has absolutely saved my life twice no doubt.

Understatement of the day. LOL Whats up Jeff

Thats damn crazy. I dont have the balls to go that fast on the flat asphalt let alone up a rutted up sand hill. Takes a special bike and rider :cool:

Exactly, there was a link on here a while back i think that had the billet cases at 1899 if i remember. So for an ADDITIONAL grand to 1200 give or take you have the billets. I guess my point was missed that if you are spending that much money on a motor, i cant see an additional grand holding you back especially concidering some of the benefits of the billet cases. maybe its just me

Maybe its just me, but why would you even consider staying with the stock cases if you are going to build that much motor? If you are going to spend 600+/- for mods to the stocker, you could spend an additional grand/1200 and have the billet cases. Im not saying money is no object, but if the motor is already in the range of 8K+ whats another G. Plus you can get it windowed so you can change shift forks. Just doesn't make sense to stay stock. Or am i missing something? As far as power goes, didn't Mccoys DMX do like 87MPH up sand mountain?? Thats nuts