rubberneck

Hey highroller, i ride my bike with only a +2 arm and yes it can be a handfull but it is definitely not uncontrollable. As far as those plugs go, its kind of hard to see in the pic, but the smoke ring may be a little thin looking. I would personally go bigger and see if she slows down. If not, fat is happy if you know what i mean. Throw some 185s in there and chop the plugs. I had 185s in mine when the right piston let go. They had decent color on chop, but could have handled a bigger jet I think. I didn't have anything bigger than a 185 with me, i shouldn't have taken it out and ridden the hell out of it. You may be fine just running the 1/4. Live and learn, Im going huge next time untill it runs like crap fat, ,then backing it down. Like i said in the other thread, i cant explain why the jetting is so different than everybody else, but it is what it is. Oh yeah, if at any time it pops or breaks up under power get out of it ASAP. I only heard mine ping/pop once, and it was over. Our set ups are pretty much identical. Was that with the shearer inframes?

:shoothead: Sorry, dont know how i missed that. Bump for you

Haha, my six pack rack has actually never seen a cooler. I have 1.5 gallon can, cause the damn cub drinks fuel like crazy. But yeah, there would be room to strap a cooler and a tent on there and some supplies i would imagine. Just be carefull how you pack it on, or the exhaust will get nasty oil all over everything. Might need to make some exhaust deflectors of some sort to keep your tent and whatnot from getting wrecked.

You putting a 3 piece manifold on? Good mod to keep it from happening again. Which injectors and turbo are you going with?

I have 190psi with 20cc domes and .053 squish. I got the domes from jeff also. I cant explain the jetting, I know everybody says it should be fat on top, but its not. Jeff said thats what it would need and he was right. I have pressure checked it twice, no air leaks and both plugs look exactly the same on chop. I guess it is what it is. I know if i put 160 mains in like mentioned above, i wouldn't make it out of camp without nuking a piston. :shrug:

The later model bikes have a clutch switch on the clutch perch, and a brake light. thats about it

Yeah, I know it. Jeff set them up for me with 180s and 60pilots, and I asked him why it was so different than what I always see recomended on here. He said its the 39's compared to 35's I think a lot must have to do with the needle. I dont know. I just know that high compression teamed with a main jet that was probably a size or 2 small and some long high speed runs cost me a piston. Heard it break up once, got out of it, and it was too late. oh well, going to have jeff drag port it and put in the override like i should have the first time. good excuse to upgrade right. LOL

Is that the new twin cylinder 4 stroke? I know a guy who knows a guy who lived in a trailer with a chick that blew a guy that worked at the factory, and he said it is happening

Yeah, get us a good pic from above looking straigh down. 1.25 inches is an awefull lot. I run 6 degrees caster. I think you may have the upper arms on the wrong side. Get us a better pic

Highroller, i have the exact same set up. You didn't mention which needles are in your 39s, so i will tell you my set up. I had 58 pilots, DGH needles in the middle and 185mains. It is a bit fat on bottom, could probably go to 55s. Starts without choke when cold, and had a stumble right off the bottom, but idles great and does not load up plugs, so must not be too far off. Top is actually on the edge, plugs look a little light when doing a plug chop. You are going to hear 50 guys get on after me and tell me the mains are way too huge, but i can post pics of the plugs. It must have to do with the needles im not sure. A lot of guys run CELs and maybe thats why they all run 155-160 mains. Just go fat and work your way down carefully (ask me how I know LOL) I run +4 timing because i dune mine for extended periods. Everybody says cubs love timing. Jeff told me to run+7 if I was dragging only, but I dont know for 1/4 mile. That is longer than i would see in the sand.

Jeff does sell cheetahs. Im not sure if he keeps them in stock or not, call him. I was originally interested in a cheetah, and he said he could get me one. Lots of good names already mentioned, call around and talk to the guys see who you like, check turn around time etc. Dont get in a hurry, and dont go cheap. Get it from who tells you the right things. :thumbsup:

What is your caster set at? Greatly increased caster can make the bike harder to steer.

yes, this helps alot, i ran 13/41 gearing in oregon with a 22 inch tire. Just have to get used to clutching the shit out of her when ever you come off the "pipes" if you know what i mean. Honestly, for the type of riding we were doing, i hate to say it, but you cant beat the 4 pokes. I would blow by them like they were sitting still in the open stuff, but then they would kill me through the bushes and trees. i have a feeling your old alky raptor would have been the ultimate bike in that situation. Oh well, doesn't really matter, if I dont go back there for a long time I will be ok with it. I am going to stick to dumont/glamis and hopefully do an Idaho trip this year. We will see. Jeff, I will be calling you soon, i am going to get my cub torn down and see how bad I hurt it. I want to do a duneable override and possible have you do some port work. What the F, more power is alway better right? LOL

Word, rubber or soft faced dead blow hammer is your friend. Kind of work your way around tapping and it will come free. Dont pry on anything with a prybar/screwdriver so you dont mar up any sealing surfaces.

I have heard on some other boards about guys cryo treating gears especially 2nd. I believe the process is to slowly heat the part to about +300 or so if i remember correctly and then very slowly cool it back down to around - 2xx something or whatever liquid nitrogen is at. The idea is that the slow temp change aligns the molecules of the metal and removes any stress risers that can lead to a crack and eventually failure. Im not sure 30% is realistic, but i am by no means a pro. I havent had any bike parts done, but I have had several match barrels done on AR-15 target/varmint rifles. It is supposed to make your point of impact stay more stable from cold barrel to hot. I dont know what it would cost to do a tranny, but i think if you are at the point of needing it, you may want to just concider a billet 2nd. Again somebody with more 1st hand experience will surely chime in. wheres dajo?? LOL

As you can see keving has an excellent reputation, and you dont hear about people being unhappy. I have heard that white knuckle builds some sick stock cylinders also. I have heard their 10mil stock cylinder motors make for excellet sleepers.

Ive never had any motor work done by them, but i have bought a lot of stuff from them. They have fast shipping and stock a ton of parts. Their chrome parts are second to none. If you want anything chrome, i would get it from them especially pipes, as they buy them bare and have their chromer do a true show chrome on them. They also make bitchin seat covers. You would not be disapointed with F.A.S.T. for the motor work, jeff has a very good reputation on here and i was very pleased with his customer service during my build. Kevin at HJR also has an excellent reputation on here and i hear his turn around time is second to none.

Some details on the shocks please, are they compression and rebound adjustable? What model #. Might be interested in the whole shootin match.

Gonna need to see some pics, but it is aluminum, and a competent welder should be able to put it back on as long as it isn't too wasted.

If it runs good and clean all the way to the top, id personally leave it. A little dark looking, but wont hurt IMHO if it runs strong. Maybe able to go down a size.

Yes, i agree. I love my motor for pismo/dumont type open riding. Oregon in the trees, me not likey so much :biggrin:

Cool, makes sense, Kevin, do you feel that there is much loss on the top? I think for a duner like mine, this would make good sense.

I put blue or purple loctite on EVERY bolt on a banshee. They are vibrating bolt loosening machines. I use blue on the larger stuff and purple on the smaller stuff works great. The other problem i have had is when installing the stainless allen bolts for the clutch covers. maker sure you run a tap into the cases and make sure the bolts are going in all the way. I have had it happen where the bolts feel tight but are not tightening down on the cover because they are a little too long. you may need to take a little of the length.

NYUK here is the address, bump cause i needed to print it out too. LoL

Allright man, its all yours. I will find a box big enough and ship it out this week. Maybe sheerips can make us a custom fullbore grill for it. Pimp style