rubberneck

If you are in to straight duning, you are probably going to want to stay away from alcohol. You burn roughly double the amount of alcohol that you would gas. With a stock tank you are looking at about a 12-15 mile range on meth in the sand. I used to get about 30 miles out of a tank on my gas bike. With my cub im guessing its about 20-22 miles on race gas. I took my vapor off when i put the cub in so im not sure anymore. Needless to say unless you buy a 5 gallon ims tank and put a six pack rack on to hold another 2 gallons, meth will suck for duning

You get what you pay for. Jeff is out until the 17th so if you need to order a quality kit today, call Cascade innovations. Get there HD clutch kit

I agree with firehead here. I only run a +2. Is it wheely happy. It can be, but not unrideable. All you guys make it sound like you need a 14 inch arm to ride one of these things. It just depends on what you are going to do with the bike. For a duner you dont need it. Can i do full throttle launch in 2nd and run with the drag guys no. But thats not what im doing with the bike. Tire selection has a huge part in this also. Try duning your long ass arms and let me know how that works out for you. Not arguing, im just saying. Now more back on track since we have determined that it will be a drag bike exclusively. You are silly not to do an override. You are going to want 35+ mm carbs, and drag pipes. why not go out of frames. I hear the new shearers are kicking ass. And for what you are doing, i think you will find you WILL need a lot longer swinger and or a wheely bar. For this listen to dajo, thats what he does.

You have to admire the time and commitment to building something like that. But it's FUGLY fo sho.

I would get a clutch from FAST or from Cascade. I have one of each in my bikes. They will more than hold for your HP level. I run 3 HD springs in my bolt on bike and 6HD springs on my Cub with no lockout and they hold just fine. You could piece it together with HD springs FZR fibers and barnett steels, but its way easier to just call up and order the complete clutch. YOu will also want to make sure your inner hub and basket are not grooved. May want to replace the pressure plate also.

I am assuming you will be going with the 58x68mm cub which is 421 cc. It uses 68 mmblaster pistons and therefore you will need different domes for sure. Size of domes will be determined by what fuel you want to run. 20 cc domes gave me 190psi cranking compression which requires 110 octane. Before i get too carried away, what type of riding do you do? Cubs are top end motors. They are drag motors and make pretty killer hot duner motors. They suck on trails, so the cub may or may not be what you want anyway. You are definitely going to want different pipes. Most will recomend CPI or Shearers. You definitely do NOT want a single carb kit. A 421 cub is going to want 35 -39mm carbs. If you are concerned about ease of tuning, im not sure you are ready for a CUB. Not that it is any harder to tune, but you have to get it right or you will toast it. Keep in mind there are a lot of misc items you are going to need for a cub also. Pingle valve for sure, possibly an override/lockout, longer swingarm etc. What is your budget?

40 degree change will more than likely be 2 jet sizes. So if you get it spot on now, you will more than likely have to lean it out 2 jet sizes when it warms up. It is really easy man, dont wait. The power is worth it.

Actually, i dont think this particular case it has to do with the environment. From what i understand a rhino load of kids got killed by a train last year, and there have been some other incidents between duners and the train. Obviously the train always wins. I think it has to do with them not wanting to get their asses sued by the family of some dumb ass duner who thought he could beat the train. I dont know, thats just what i heard. It does suck though.

Bad ricky stator once again. Mine did the exact same thing. Good lights one minute, looked like candles the next.

ROFLMAO . I haven't heard that one before, im going to use it.

Fuck man, you just dont listen do you. Riding around for 3 minutes doesn't tell you dick on your plugs, do a proper plug chop. Warm bike up on old plugs. Stop put new plugs in. fire bike up and IMEDIATELY do a wide open run 1st through at least 5th gear. Pull in clutch, kill motor, release thumb throttle, coast to a stop. Put your old plugs in and ride home. take the test plugs and either cut them or inspect. This is the only way to make sure your main circuit is correct. You ask questions all day long and dont listen to the advice. Its your bike do what you want with it.

What type of riding do you do?? That is going to be the biggest factor. If you drag race or ride open dunes, the cubs are fun. Tight trails, treeshots etc, not so much fun. You need to be honest with the type of riding you plan and what your budget will be and decide from there. Decide which way to go then pick components. If you go cub some of the stuff on your list above may not be the best way to go.

Check your jetting. just read in your other thread that you had new pipes and K&N pods with 260 mains. Bet you money you are lean and overheating. By the way, the hoses dont work like you stated. There is one hose that goes from the radiator to the bottom of the recovery tank. It discharges hot fluid AND draws the fluid back into the radiator. The other hose from the top of the tank is simply the overflow hose. It goes up to the steering stem area and dumps to atmosphere at the front of the bike so that when it overheats you will see it steaming and hopefully stop riding. The only fluid that would dump out of that line with the tank removed is any that could have been in the line before removal. Certainly not 100ml. if you dumped fluid, its getting hot, or you have a bad radiator cap. Due a proper plug chop and report back. YOu are lean.

Man, im not sure on the Ford. I just did one on my dodge and had to use a puller to get it off. New one went on with a few taps. I have a buddy who is a ford mechanic, if nobody else answers i will try to give him a call tomorrow.

You sure he is so good? That is some of the craziest shit i have ever heard. And yes, if you are running K&N pods, i would bet you are lean with 280s. When i went from airbox with vent holes and unifilter to K&N pods, i had to go up 5 main jet sizes. Check your plugs, and if it starts breaking up on top, get out of it imediately and go put bigger mains in it.

Austin, i have a complete carrier assembly. Its not the best, but it came off a working bike before i went roundhouse. You can have it, pay the shipping its yours. I dont have an axle. You need anything else for this beast? Just promise to post a video when its all said and done.LOL

Here you go http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...=107886&hl= If the chain whack isn't too bad, and you are on a budget, this is the way i'd go.

True, but 2 x 55 watts hallogen is not enough for me. I want more LOL. (I had 2 x 75watts and still want more.) I really want to do 2 35w HID on the bars and get the trail tech scmr16 HID helmet light. Well see how the budget unfolds.

There is a small rubber plug (kind of oval shaped with one flat side) that goes in the webb on the case that separates the area where the stator is and the sprocket. Look there, i bet that plug is not in there.

Thats where im at right now, just trying to figure out how to get more light. thinking DC conversion with batteries and HID lihgts. It really blows to chase down an ill running motor thinking the jetting is off only to find out the damn stator has been giving you fits. The stockers runs great and its staying put for now.

I think the difference is in the needles. I have seen a lot of guys recommend near what fouled out was saying. However on my 39pwks, i have DGH needles. I had to run 55 pilots and 185 mains on my cub. Chop looked good on a nice warm day. Temps dropped, went out for an evening run in the cool weather and heard it break up once before i melted the right piston. Lesson learned. Next time im going fat. I dont know how a drag ported stock cylinder compares to a 4mm cub. Call jeff, if the port specs are close to his drag port he can probably get you pretty damn close.

I use RockyMountain a lot for riding gear and oil, plugs and other consumables and shit like that. For Parts, i try to use the site sponsors.

If your budget is 7-800 bucks, I think i would do like Dajo suggested. I would look for a good low hours stock crank, have it welded/trued, and then get the cylinders bored/honed if needed and put in some new pistons. Maybe get the stock head shaved or rechambered to bring up the compression a bit, or you could spring for a cool head. Lots of them used on here. You would probably have enough money left over to get some good used pipes. For trail riding you could get yourself some procircuits. I have seen several sets on here lately in the 2-300 dollar range. Jet it appropriately and go rip it up. Call KEVSWS6, (he is the owner of Herrjuggs) or Fast or any of the builders on here for that matter. I am sure they come across decent stock cranks all the time as a lot of guys are going to strokers. Just FYI if you go to the stock stroke long rod, you dont use a spacer, you use the 795 series wiseco pistons which have the wrist pin moved up 5mm to compensate for the longer rod. If you go 4mm stroker, the prefered way is not to use a spacer plate, but to have the cylinders ported to get the timing right, then use a coolhead with domes with a 2mm recessed cut to allow for the pistons to come out of the top of the cylinder 2mm.

Bigger stator is required if you want to run higher wattage lights like a lot of us do for night riding. the stock lights are marginal at best for a stock banshee IMHO. When you get a bike with a little horsepower, you can quickly out run your lights if you know what i mean. One word of advice no matter what you decide, DO NOT BUY ANY OF THE RICKY STATOR PIECES OF SHIT. Just do a search, you will find and overwhelming amount of bad stories about bad stators and flywheels from them.

I was told 6psi, for 6 min, sooo 5 for 5, 6 for 6, whatever, doesn't matter. If that bitch only dropped 1/2 psi in 4 hours, its tight as a frogs ass. Fire it up and run it.