rubberneck

HEAT

You are correct

how did you wire the kill switch

Thats a cascade bike, at least just about everything on it is cascade. No way they will get 12k, but it sure is nice. Definitely would cost way more than 12 to build. If you think that is pricey, look at cascades website. They have bikes just like that for 18-20+k

I dont race any of it yet, but i do know that .3 to .5 in the 300ft is a freaking huge difference. Seems like from the times i hear guys state, its pretty easy to get into the low 4s, then its like a wall

Ive got the shift pro kit, the shift star, and shift shaft along with RZ forks and drum. It shifts nice, but not like a honda. Thats why my shit is getting replaced with an override.

Maybe he was referring to racing in the 1/4 ?

Apparently you didnt read what i wrote. Location Location Location. I imagine the average house would sell for 100k back there also, but come out here and it will cost you about 4 times that much.

Yep, lights dont last long. If i remember correctly, the stock stator will put out in excess of 20 volts unregulated. Doesn't matter how many watts your lights are, you will cook them as they were designed for 12 volts.

The other thing with EFI live is that if you do not really know what the hell you are doing, you can damage stuff fast. Personally for a daily driver/toy hauler, i would go with a plug in play unit and be done. I have had great luck with edge juice so wouldn't hesitate to go there. I just recently pulled about 150 HP out of my truck. It was fun as a toy, but just was too much drama towing heavy. Trust me when i tell you its easy to go too far with the HP game.

Melted spark plug would probably indicate a lean condition. Did you recently modify the bike. I.E. pipes intake or anything like that? If so did you rejet? If you made no modifications and it did this all of a sudden, you most likely developed an air leak. If the plug melted, you more than likely took out the piston as well.

Every banshee i have is that way. When all the clutch components are brand new it seems to be the best, then over time, neutral just gets harder and harder to find. sometimes i get lucky and find it, sometimes i just kill it. I believe that you can cut the neutral slot in the star deeper and it is supposed to make it easier to find.

I think you can only go up to the 4 gallon tanks without having to cut the front fenders below the tank area. The 5 gallon ims i know you have to chop the fenders.

If its clean, thats probably a decent price for around here. Banshees tend to run a little more than you guys can probably get them for. You wont find a clean one with t5s running for 1500 around here. location location location

Good luck with that one, definitely no clearance in there. My gut tells me you would have to do something custom, and the stingers are larger diameter than like t5s so it would be real tight.

Of the 3 banshees in my garage right now, all three have been stood up at one point or another. 2 dont leak at all, 1 pukes like crazy. dont know why that is.

bump for a nice looking bike

Did it just start doing this all of a sudden, or was it after you made the mods you listed? If it ran fine before and just started doing it, I would look at the stator and electrical. If you just installed all the mods and it started, you may be a little lean. I havent jetted pro circuits, but with T5s and K&N, 290s are not big enough at sea level. EDIT, have you checked for air leaks?

Here is my experience, I have a 4mil cub on gas cleaned up by jeff. shearers 39s blablabla. So you know right where im at HP wise. I put RZ shift forks, modded star, shift pro and a modded shift shaft in it. It shifts really nice for a banshee, but still shift like a banshee. I get off the honda 450r and the banshee just feels like shit. So im in the middle of tearing it down to put in an override. As far as clutch reliablitiy, i cant comment too much as I only had about 40 gallons of gas through motor when i pulled it down, but everything looks brand new in there. I was not running an a lockup but did run all 6 HD springs. It was the FZR/barnnet (fast) clutch. I would think this combo should hold up for you im about 225 pounds and certainly dont ride my bike easy. You might just try getting a better clutch for now and removing the lockup untill you can tear down and do the override

Nothing to do with the tranny. there is nothing in the tranny that could allow it to go into reverse. It is possible for the bike to kick back while starting and run in reverse. I think this is what happened to you. Just run it

Yep either go down 1 in front or up 3 in rear. I think you will like that. I like to go smaller on the front only for the reason that bigger in the rear decreases the clearance between the skid and rear sprocket and if you are hitting shit like i do then it will get smashed into the sprocket sooner.

How tall is the tire? Big difference in bite between say a 20 and a 22 inch carcass. If you have a 20 inch 9 paddle, you are probably spinning out of the hole a little more than you want. 22 inch and you have plenty of tire for a stock swingarm

Its easier than you might thing dinner 3.54 rear end with 33 inch tires in 6th gear drag comp with 160hp edms and a B1. 3400 rpm at 1700 degrees on the pyro racing a mazda. Not one of the smarter things ive ever done. I started thinking that BFG muds probably arent speed rated for 140+mph and backed out. I burned the tip off on an injector by the way. Live and learn

I think if you try it wiithout them you will be pulling the top end right back off to put them in. The cooling system can have up to 16psi in it.

Look up a post by dajogajr, his sig pic has his bike with white fullbores and a white seat. it looks tight.