shee rips

im gonna have mine off soon i could let you know then :thumbsup: you mean bottom to top in the center of the port right

i have maxxis sur tracs right now and im gonna basically quote what asswhore said. they are real shitty on hard surfaces but pretty good in sand and mud. they throw a sweet roost too. they shoot baseball size rocks over berms pretty good (note to self : dont park my truck outside of a berm) They are also reversible one way is for mud the other for sand. They dont seem that heavy to me. they were on it when i bought the quad so i dont really have anything to compare it to except my buddies quad with fatties instead of sst's and he had bearclaws and that bike felt like a dog compared to mine. his top end has less than half the hours on it too. I got a set of kenda knarleys on order though :thumbsup:

does anyone know if there is a service manual for the banshee similar to the ones for yamaha dirtbikes? i got a clymer and it seems like thats what everyone else has too but i really liked the one for my yz 125 so i figured i would ask

i think its awesome how people just give stuff away on here I know you just wanna get rid of it but i think its cool of you to just say pay the shipping to get it outa here :thumbsup: :beer:

oh and is the threaded part of the tester supposed to be the length of the spark plug threads? the one i used only has about a half inch of threads so could that work like a larger dome and make the guage read less? :geek:

how much higher should the compression go if its warmed up compared to cold or am i ass backwardsw here and it is higher cold? i tested mine cold today, WOT and got 100 and 105 psi and im only up a couple hundred feet here. it just has pipes for now. im gonna rebould it anyway but i was just curious. i would go try it warm but my parents, not to mention the neighbors might not appreciate me letting it run with no silencers :biggrin:

it runs in neutral though? i mean it wont quit on you it will keep runnig for as long as you want till you put it in gear. if so that probaly eliminates your bottom end

putting the airbox lid back on would make it run richer :thumbsup: edit- i didnt see that blowit just said the exact same thing

that pipe got HOT :ohmy: hopefully a bore and some pistons will get it going. :beer:

I say he just rebuilds it to stock and if he wants to go fast get a 250 2 stroke. My 125 was ported and had head work done. It was reliable, it had a broad powerband :laugh: for a 125 and it ran with 250F's but i guarantee if I was on a 4 stroke i would have done better cuz i was riding the piss out of it just to keep up. I know you told him and i agree that he should get a 250. i dont know how reliable a stroker would be in that bike and a 250 would still blow it away

if your cylinders are in good shape do you still have to hone them? I thought if they still have the crosshatching on them you dont have to do anything to them, just put new pistons and rings :shrug:

I think the blueing looks cool

i run sonic dynamix at 32 to 1 its like 5 or 6 $ a liter from co-op. works good for me, doesnt smoke too bad either.

I'm ordering a set of wisecos in the next couple days i used one in my dirt bike and it was great :thumbsup:

im gonna go for it then. .020 and while im at it i will do a top end job, wiseco pistons I think. Thanks again for the advice. :beer:

that is pretty bad, if it wouldnt pull the front tires in 2nd gear. especially for a big bore stroker. a stock banshee will wheelie in probably 3rd or 4th so when you get that thing back together it should be like you just came off an xr 80 :thumbsup:

I never knew you could do that I've never heard of anyone using an r6 clutch but im still fairly new to this banshee thing :shrug:

crashing is almost fun if you dont hurt yourself or break the bike. I've been lucky as I have never not walked away from a crash, usually im runnin after my bike like oh shit i hope nothin broke. On may long my buddy was doubling a girl and took the ditch in 5th gear so they were lucky to not be hurt there.

you must have some oven mitt hands because i cant hold my hand on the cylinders at operating temp, not for 3 seconds anyway :shrug:

ya i know that i should change the jetting for that big a change in altitude but its kinda impractical to change jets in the middle of a ride. It seems to be jetted right for around 0 to close to 1000 feet, so running rich up the mountains doesnt seem to cause any problems other than lack of power and a little smoke, I just carry spare plugs. If it was jetted for up high and i came down to sea level then that would be another story but..... :shrug: It is also colder up there which may make up for some of the altitude(according to my theory anyways :geek: ) After looking around i see that many people have shaved their stock head, but would I be safe on pump gas with +4 timing(or any advance for that matter) combined with higher compression? I saw some pictures the other day of what detonation does to pistons and I dont want to take that chance :shoothead: it is nice to have a site like this to get this much information :biggrin: :beer:

you dont need a chain breaker, just grind off the end of pin on the link you want to break it at. just grind it until it is flush with the plate on the chain. you dont need to worry about grinding into the plate because thats the part youre throwing away. then get a small punch and punch the pin through away from the side you ground on Just be VERY careful not to make the chain too short, if you do then you get to buy another chain :thumbsup:

If you have teeth chipped or broken in the tranny that could explain why its intermittent and sometimes works. try draining your oil and inspest it for chunks of metal, or even filings could indicate a problem. a silver metallic color is ok, thats just the clutch but anything you can feel between your fingers is bad news.

did you or a previous owner have your transmission apart? if so it's likely that something was not put together right and came apart or is not sitting where it should be. Even if it hasnt been apart I'd still say take a peek at your tranny, sounds like something in there for sure. as for the clutch I dont have a clue. The impact wrench shouldnt have damaged anything, Ive used it to tighten the clutch basket on my dirtbike several times with no problems, just dont go crazy with it, if you hold the impact wide open then maybe that did it :shrug: now it doesnt want to start? dumb question but is something dragging or feeling like its getting stiff/seized when you kick it over or push it? good luck :beer:

haha sorry I forgot to say im any where from sea level to 3000 feet, but mostly below 1000 feet. And no I didnt know know how to check squish clearance. I guess that would have been a good thing to ask instead of for a clearance that i dont even know how to measure. thanks for that one bigboybanshee. simple but effective. :beer: i dont think i would have any issues from shaving the head .020 as people have gone much more on the stock head but i dont want to go too crazy with it, or spend the money to have it rechambered and/or run race gas. Actually it just came to mind, is there a thinner head gasket available that would accomplish the same thing? or does the stock head use o rings? thanks guys (and gals) :beer:

I know next to nothing about alky setups but i have read that you need to bore or drill out your petcock to flow more fuel. Might have run your bowls dry. that might be why it runs good till you hit 6th and then thats about the time it takes to start running out of fuel. like I dont know shit about alky and i may be way off but thats what it sounds like to me. :thumbsup: